 
mountain adventures
MOUNTAINEERING IN THE CANADIAN ROCKIES
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Mountaineering, Climbing, and Skiing In The Canadian Rockies
The great peaks of the Columbia Icefields rise abruptly next to the Banff-Jasper Parkway. Heavy glaciation means alpine ice climbing, not only for the experts challenging famous routes such as the 'Andromeda Strain' but also for those of us wishing to learn and to experience for the first time the visceral excitement that alpine ice provides. The icy peak of Athabasca is a great classroom and its steeper routes great finals for this program. 2008 DatesJuly 19 - 22 Price$1120 CDN includes instruction, guides and use of technical climbing gear. Because we are based from the highway and several options are available, meals and accommodation are not included in this price. Cancellation insurance is recommended. This must be purchased on booking and is $59. GST is extra. We can supply camping gear and food for you for an extra $255 plus tax.
More climbing: Yamnuska guides and instructors are also available for private climbing after the program ... details . Meeting Place & TimeThe course meets at the Columbia Icefields Campground by the cooking shelters at 9:00am on Day One. Please be ready to go and have your gear handy so the instructors can check it with you. The campground is located 1km north of the "Wilcox Creek" Campground, and 1km before the Icefields Centre (Hotel, Info Centre, etc). LocationThe course is based at the Columbia Icefields on the border of Banff and Jasper National Parks, 205km northwest of Canmore. It is ideal as glaciers, snowfields and peaks are right next to the 'Icefields Parkway', the scenic road linking Banff and Jasper. This allows us to stay at local roadside campgrounds, hostels or hotels. On occasion the final couple of days may be spent attempting some of the north face routes near Lake Louise.
Alpine Ice Climbing Our Approach: Objectives & InstructionThe objective of the course is to introduce you to the skills needed to climb steeper snow and ice routes than those encountered on beginner level courses. Many of the Rockies' best alpine snow and ice routes are found in this area and, whenever possible they will be incorporated into the program. Many of the harder climbs in this area are quite long and can take up to 14 hours return; elevation gain is typically around 1450m or 4,800ft. We have found that the best approach is to alternate the longer days with shorter instruction days or shorter climbs. On instructional days we primarily cover topics specific to alpine ice climbing. If time permits we may be able to review general mountaineering topics with you. Teaching on the 'instructional' days will be based on explanation and demonstration of techniques followed by ample opportunity to practice. These techniques will then be used on climbing days. On the climbing days our instructional approach evolves to one of "mentorship". This is where you learn by climbing with an expert who will impart his or her knowledge to you during the progress of the climb. This includes not only techniques but also the mental approach, drive, and judgment that fuel the successful mountaineer. To give the best mountain experience and to enhance safety, instructor to participant ratios on climbing days are often 1:2 and do not exceed 1:3. CurriculumThere is considerable flexibility built into the
delivery of this program. Snow and weather conditions will dictate the order of
presentation to a greater or lesser degree. It is planned that three of the course days
will be climbing days where techniques learnt will be used during the ascent of actual
snow and ice routes. Commonly climbed routes include the 'ice apron' on A2, Athabasca by 'Standard',
'Silverhorn', and North Face routes. Other routes climbed less frequently include Andromeda
by the 'Skyladder'. It
must be emphasized that participants will not be taken on climbs for which the instructors
do not consider them ready or where conditions present undue hazard.
Sample Course AgendaDay 1: Meet at 9.00am at
Columbia Icefields campground, check equipment then head out to review mountaineering techniques and
commence ice instruction.
Day 3: Second instruction with focus on anchors and protection on steep
ice and snow. Like any alpine region, this area is subject to extreme weather conditions. On days where high climbs are not possible we will try to arrange instruction sessions. Instructors & Group SizeGuide ratios will vary depending on the specific climb or activity. There will be a maximum 1:3 ratio on climbing days. Our personnel are qualified guides and assistant guides and are licensed to operate in the area by Parks Canada. The maximum group size is 12. Difficulty, Fitness & ExperienceParticipants need prior mountaineering experience. In the context of the Yamnuska program this would be a minimum of 'Intro To Mountaineering' or a combination of 'Snow and Ice Long Weekend' and 'Basic', 'Advanced' or 'Ice Evolution'. Participants must be in really good physical shape as this is a very demanding and arduous program. Climbs are long and need stamina. We cannot guarantee to cater for those unable to handle this. TransportationIt is necessary to drive a short distance each day between accommodations and climbing areas. Transport is not included. If you can give someone a ride or if you want a ride let us know and we can put other participants in touch with you. Sharing a rental car with other participants is also a good option. For those flying here for the program we recommend flying to Calgary International and renting a car (major agencies). This will allow you to take your time getting to the Icefields so you can check out Canmore and Banff en-route as well as allowing you to check out the Icefields area (Jasper etc.) in the evenings. We can put you in touch with other guests who may be interested in sharing the cost of this option. If planning to use public transportation, Brewster/Greyhound have a once daily tourist service to the Columbia Icefields from Banff (with a drop off at the campground entrance). They also provide a service to Banff/Canmore/Lake Louise from downtown Calgary. The Banff Airporter supplies the best service to Canmore and Banff from the Calgary Airport. Accommodation and MealsMeals and accommodation are not included in the basic price. If you would like us to organize this we will do so for a charge of $255 plus GST to cover group camping gear, camp fees and meals (more information below). Otherwise you can make your own arrangements. You will need to bring a lunch and snack food with you each day. Bring plenty of high-energy snacks. Particularly on cold days, we may not stop for long lunch breaks opting for more frequent short snack breaks instead. You will also need to bring plenty of liquids, especially on the peak days. There are several options available. The instructors and most climbers stay at the "Icefields Campground". Your choices include:
If wanting to stay in Canmore or Banff before or after the course check our LINKS page for accommodation options.
Equipment and ClothingWe supply group climbing gear such as ropes & hardware but you must bring your own personal climbing gear (e.g. harness, helmet, ice axe), clothing and general equipment. We can lend you personal climbing items except for boots for which a rental charge applies. Make sure that you let us know, in advance, what you will need to borrow and to rent. The equipment and clothing you bring to this program will have a big impact upon the quality of your experience. Please be sure to bring all items requested. If you are unsure about anything please do not hesitate to call and ask us. CLOTHING LISTWe suggest layers of light, easily carried clothing that allow for fast and easy adjustment to best suit fast changing temperature conditions. We discourage cotton clothing as it causes rapid heat loss when wet. Feel free to call us if you have any questions about what to bring. This list covers items needed for all likely conditions during the mountaineering season. Your guide will go through your clothing and gear with you prior to the course. You will need to bring:
EQUIPMENT LISTYou will need to bring: (Items in blue are available to rent from Yamnuska, we can loan you the items in red). You must give us plenty of notice if wanting to rent or loan gear.
OPTIONAL ITEMSWe supply the following items but you can bring your own if you like:
Contact Yamnuska with clothing & gear questions InsuranceThere is no charge for rescue so long as you have a valid National Park Entry Pass (purchase on entry to Park). However, it is wise to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident during your visit to the Rockies. Obtain extra coverage if necessary. Booking InformationPlease book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. We require a $412 CDN deposit including GST. Final payment is due eight weeks before the start of the program. To avoid unnecessary cancellation penalties we suggest you take our cancellation insurance for an extra, non-refundable $59. This must accompany your deposit.
If you would like the accommodation & food package please request when booking.
Payment for this is due with the balance of course fees eight weeks before
the start of the program.
Please read
the information on booking conditions and cancellation penalties carefully
before booking.
LinksCheck out this website compiled by a past guest about this course. This account starts with Intro to Alpine Ice then moves to the Bugaboos: http://www.silvancolani.com/travel/canada/canada.html PLEASE DON'T HESITATE TO CONTACT US IF |
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Yamnuska Mountain
Adventures
