Ice Evolution

Ice Evolution Course Agenda

Note: There is considerable flexibility built into the delivery of this course, no course is exactly the same. Ice and weather conditions as well as participant ability will dictate the order of presentation to some degree. Key topics will be constantly revisited during the program.

Day 1: 8:00am At Yamnuska Office in Canmore, Alberta Canada

• Discuss program and goals.
• Issue and check gear.
• Review safety procedures (knots, belays etc) & basic rope techniques.
• Use & placement of crampons and ice tools; this is crucial to climbing success. All too often ice climbers waste precious time and energy in failed attempts to properly place crampons and tools in the ice. It's not about strength but technique.
• Movement skills on short top-roped climbs. How to ice climb efficiently and use correct body positioning to save energy and time. A lot of the time on this program will devoted to coaching participants in movement skills and techniques. Rock climbers will enjoy applying their existing movement skills to this new medium. A video camera may be used to give exact feedback.

Day 2:

• Consolidate techniques learnt on Day 1.
• Techniques for climbing steep ice. Again lots of personalized coaching as the climbs increase in difficulty and angle today.
• Use of ice screws, anchor construction.

Day 3:

• Multi-pitch climbing. Split into small teams of 2 students per instructor and use the previous days' learning on one of the longer ice climbs for which the Canadian Rockies are famous. The climbs will be chosen to give you the best learning experience and challenge.

Descending from the Weeping Wall. Bryce Jardine photo

Day 4:

• Technical skills day: placing 'pro', building anchors, rappel anchors.
• Basic rescue skills
• and yes! More personal climbing skill coaching.

Day 5:

• The modern era! Explore the skills used at the frontiers of winter ice climbing. We focus on 'dry tooling' skills for mixed climbing on rock and ice. We will climb some of the mixed routes that the area is becoming famous for! You'll use all the skills you've gained from Day 1 onwards. Course ends at 5.00pm.

More climbing: Yamnuska Ice Climbing Guides and Instructors are also available for private climbs after the program.

Location

The course is based in Canmore, Alberta but expect to be traveling to different climbing areas of the Canadian Rockies in Kananaskis, Banff, Canmore and Lake Louise. We may also access the excellent ice climbing area near Field, BC or Kootenay National Park.

Meeting Time and Place

The course begins at the Yamnuska office in Canmore at 8:00am on the first day. The Yamnuska office is located at 200, 50 Lincoln Park, Canmore. See this map for location.

Instructors & Group Size

The "Yam Ice Team" includes most of the best ice climbing guides and instructors anywhere! Enthusiastic and extremely talented, they hold climbing certification from the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides and from other International Federation of Mountain Guide Association (IFMGA) countries. Your safety and enjoyment are paramount to them. There will be a maximum of 12 students, a minimum of 4. Instructor/student ratios range down from 1:6 on initial days to 1:2 on the multi-pitch day.

The "Yam Ice Team" includes Tim Auger, Jason Billing, Steve Blagbrough, Barry Blanchard, Pat Delaney, Carl Johnston, James Madden, Jesse De Montigny, Grant Meekins, Matt Mueller, Nick Rapaich, Simon Robins, Erica Roles and Nick Sharpe.

Transportation

Waterfall Ice Climbing

To keep prices down participants are responsible for their own transport to Canmore and during the program. Canmore is a 1hour (100km) drive west from Calgary.

If you are flying from afar for the program we suggest that you rent a car for your visit. In addition to getting you to the climbing locations it will allow you to explore our region a bit after program hours. For example you can visit Banff and enjoy the hot pools and sample the numerous restaurants.

Frequent shuttles connect Calgary International Airport and Canmore. We can arrange airport shuttle for $50 one-way.  Greyhound Bus Lines (1 800 661 8747) serves Canmore from points east and west along the Trans-Canada Highway.

Accommodation & Meals

These are not included in the program fees. There are lots of options available including hostels, B'n'Bs, motels and hotels in Canmore and Banff. Check accommodation options on our links page for our recommendations or we will be happy to make reservations using our preferred rates for you. The Alpine Club Clubhouse (403 678 3200) is a good hostel here in Canmore with nice facilities and reasonable prices.

For your convenience we can arrange hotel accommodations in Canmore for $160 per night. Double or single occupancy, the cost is the same. This accommodation can be booked with the trip online or by calling us. Hostel accommodation is also available for $30 per night. Subject to availability.

Food is not supplied. You will need lunch and something to drink each day. Each day bring plenty to drink and a lunch plus energy snacks. We particularly suggest bringing a Thermos and hot drink.

Equipment & Clothing

The course fee includes use of technical gear although you should feel free to bring any gear you already have.

Equipment List

We suggest you bring:

• Boots, double plastic mountaineering boots*
• Daypack (large enough for spare clothing, your lunch & climbing gear e.g. rope & crampons)
• Crampons* (must fit your boots or be easily adjustable)
• Climbing Harness*
• Climbing Helmet*
• Ice Tools (2)*
• Belay Device*
• Sunglasses
• Thermos flask and/or water bottle (full!)
• Sun cream
• Pocket knife

*We can loan you these but you must advise us in advance that you need them.

Mountaineering Boots

Yamnuska has double plastic mountaineering boots which you are welcome to use. If needing these please let us know when you register. Please also give us your boot size.

Clothing List

There can be prolonged periods of inactivity in very cold temperatures. Don't be afraid to bring too much! We suggest bringing light clothing of varying thickness that can be 'layered' to achieve comfort and versatility. The most important consideration for clothing is the ability to regulate temperature as you change from periods of activity to periods of rest. We discourage cotton clothing as it causes rapid heat loss when wet.

We suggest you bring:

• Long underwear (top & bottom), polypro, wool or fleece
• Warm pants (pref. insulated or fleece)
• Warm shirt (not cotton)
• Sweater (medium or lightweight)
• Fleece Jacket (heavyweight)
• Insulated jacket or vest
• Waterproof jacket with hood (Gore-Tex or nylon)
• Waterproof pants (Gore-Tex or nylon)
• 2 sets Socks (wool outer & polypro liner)
• Wool or fleece hat that will cover ears & fit under helmet
• Waterproof climbing gloves &/or mitts plus spares
• Knee-length Gaiters
• Neck tube

Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. We require a 35% deposit including tax at the time of booking. Final payment is due eight weeks before the start of the program.

We ask that you familiarize yourself with our detailed booking instructions and conditions.

Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the program. Please view our sample waiver copy.

There is no charge for rescue so long as you have a valid National Park Entry Pass (available at park gate). However, it is wise to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident while here.

Yamnuska offers an "Adventure Travel Protection Plan" through Travel Guard insurance. This plan offers comprehensive coverage for all your travel needs including trip cancellation/interruption, emergency medical expenses, and personal effects loss. For more information and to purchase this coverage visit Travel Guard's website.