YAMNUSKA: Guided Mountaineering, Rock and Ice Cimbing, Hiking and Skiing In The Canadian Rockies
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MOUNTAINEERING IN THE CANADIAN ROCKIES


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Mountaineering, Climbing, and Skiing In The Canadian Rockies

Ice Evolution!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ice climbing skill development and training in the Canadian Rockies!

Dates   Price   Meeting Details   Location   Agenda   Instructors & Group Size   Difficulty & Prerequisites   Transport   Local Accommodation & Meals   Equipment & Clothing   Insurance   How to Book

Ice Evolution mirrors development of the sport of ice climbing. First we instruct and coach you on movement skills. This allows you to make full use of modern ice tools. Quickly improving you'll find yourself climbing steeper and steeper ice. You'll also experience the excitement of climbing a classic multi-pitch route. Ultimately you will finish where the sport is now ... mixed climbing on rock and ice, using 'leashless' tools.

This innovative and modern climbing development program is taught by  instructors who are also on the cutting edge of modern climbing. It is suitable for fit beginner climbers and is also a great transition program for rock climbers. An approach focusing on personal technical movement skills allows for differing rates of development.

Dates Winter 2008 - 2009

December 6 - 10, December 27 - 31, January 3 - 7, January 17 - 21, January 31 - February 4, February 21 - 25, March 7 - 11

Price

$945 CDN includes covers instruction and use of technical gear including boots (may be subject to availability). Accommodation and meals are not included but low cost, easy options exist which we can which we can tell you about. Cancellation insurance is available for $50.  GST is extra.  Gratuities not included.

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More climbing: Yamnuska Guides and Instructors are also available for private climbs after the program ... details .

Book Ice Evolution & receive 4 FREE issues to Canada's climbing magazine, GRIPPED.  Ask us for details when booking.

Meeting Time and Place

The course begins at the Yamnuska office at 8.00am on the first day. The Yamnuska office is located at 200, 50 Lincoln Park, Canmore. See this map for location.

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Location

The course is based in Canmore but expect to be traveling to different climbing areas. Areas visited are likely to include but are not limited to: the Canmore 'Junkyards", Haffner Creek in Kootenay National Park, the Kicking Horse Canyon near Field BC and climbs from the Icefields Parkway.

Ice Evolution Course Agenda

Ice Evolution: climbing day 1. Bryce Jardine photo.Note: There is considerable flexibility built into the delivery of this course, no course is exactly the same. Ice and weather conditions as well as participant ability will dictate the order of presentation to some degree. Key topics will be constantly revisited during the program.

Day 1:  8:00am At Yamnuska Office & Local Climbing Area

  • Discuss program and goals.

  • Issue and check gear.

  • Review safety procedures (knots, belays etc) & basic rope techniques.

  • Use & placement of crampons and ice tools. this is crucial to climbing success. All too often climbers waste precious time and energy in failed attempts to properly place crampons and tools in the ice. It's not about strength but technique.

  • Movement skills on short top-roped climbs. How to climb efficiently and quickly using correct body positioning again to save energy and time. A lot of the time on this program will devoted to coaching participants in movement skills and techniques. Rock climbers will enjoy applying their existing movement skills to this new medium. A video camera will be used to give exact feedback.

Day 2:

  • Consolidate techniques learnt on Day 2.

  • Techniques for climbing steep ice. Again lots of personalized coaching as the climbs increase in difficulty and angle.

  • Use of ice screws, anchor construction.

Day 3:

  • Multi-pitch climbing. Split into small teams of 2 students per instructor and use the previous days' learning on one of the longer climbs for which the Canadian Rockies are famous. The climbs will be chosen to give you the best learning experience and challenge.

Descending from the Weeping Wall. Bryce Jardine photo.

Descending from the Weeping Wall. Bryce Jardine photo

Mixed ice at Haffner Creek. B. Jardine photo.Day 4:

  • Technical skills day: placing 'pro', building anchors, rappel anchors.

  • Basic rescue skills

  • and yes! More personal climbing skill coaching.

Day 5:

  • The modern era! Explore the skills used at the frontiers of winter climbing. We focus on 'dry tooling' skills for mixed climbing on rock and ice. Introduction to 'leashless' tools. Climb some of the mixed routes that the area is becoming famous for! You'll use all the skills you've gained so far!

  • Course ends at 5.00pm.

More climbing: Yamnuska Guides and Instructors are also available for private climbs after the program ... details .

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Instructors & Group Size

The "Yam Ice Team" includes most of the best climbers and instructors anywhere!  Enthusiastic and extremely talented, they hold climbing certification from the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides and from other International Federation of Mountain Guide Association (IFMGA) countries. Your safety and enjoyment are paramount to them. There will be a maximum of 12 students, a minimum of 4. Instructor/student ratios range down from 1:6 on initial days to 1:2 on the multi-pitch day.

The "Yam Ice Team" includes Barry Blanchard, Steve Blagbrough, James Blench, Pat Delaney, Jesse De Montigny, Steve Holeczi, Sarah Hueniken, Sean Isaac, Grant Meekins, Nick Sharpe and Mike Stuart.

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Difficulty & Prerequisites

This course is suitable for total beginners, rock climbers and general mountaineers. Ice climbing can be a strenuous activity but our instruction will emphasize development of technique to reduce the need for brute strength. The climbing will be tailored towards your ability and strength as much as possible. A high level of fitness will contribute to enjoyment and achievement. You need NO previous experience.

Transportation

ice_climbing_instruction_yamnuskaTo keep prices down participants are responsible for their own transport to Canmore and during the program. Canmore is a 1hour (100km) drive west from Calgary.

If you are flying from afar for the program we suggest that you rent a car for your visit. In addition to getting you to the climbing locations it will allow you to explore our region a bit after program hours. For example you can visit Banff and enjoy the hot pools and sample the numerous restaurants. If you want we can put other participants in touch with you who may be interested in sharing the cost of a rental car or who may be willing to use their vehicles in a car pool.

When booking please indicate if you are bringing a vehicle and, if so, whether your are willing or not to give other participants or instructors a ride in a car pool. If you are not driving here please indicate if you'd be willing to share the cost of a rental car or if you would prefer to car pool.

Frequent shuttles connect Calgary International Airport and Canmore. Greyhound Bus Lines (1 800 661 8747) serves Canmore from points east and west along the Trans-Canada Highway. Call 609 0300, 609 1490 or 609 8897 for taxis in Canmore.

 

Accommodation & Meals

These are your responsibility. There are lots of options available including campgrounds, hostels, B'n'Bs, motels and hotels! Check accommodation options on our links page for our recommendations. The Alpine Club Clubhouse (403 678 3200) is a good hostel here in Canmore with good facilities and reasonable prices.

Food is not supplied. You will need lunch and something to drink each day. Each day bring plenty to drink and a lunch plus energy snacks. We particularly suggest bringing a Thermos and hot drink.

Equipment & Clothing

The course fee includes use of technical gear although you should feel free to bring any gear you already have.

Equipment List

  We suggest you bring:

  • Boots, double plastic mountaineering boots*

  • Daypack (large enough for spare clothing, your lunch & climbing gear e.g. rope & crampons)

  • Crampons* (must fit your boots or be easily adjustable)

  • Climbing Harness*

  • Climbing Helmet*

  • Ice Tools (2)*

  • Belay Device/Descender*

*We can loan you these but you must advise us in advance that you need them.

  • Sunglasses

  • Thermos flask and/or water bottle (full!)

  • Sun cream

  • Pocket knife

Equipment Sales

As an authorized Petzl Charlet dealer we have a range of guide-recommended ice climbing gear available for purchase. A 5% discount applies if you are booked on a Yamnuska program with greater discounts built into our gear packages. We can ship to you or have your gear awaiting your arrival here. More Information

Mountaineering Boots

Yamnuska has double plastic mountaineering boots which you are welcome to use. If needing these please let us know when you register. Please also  give us your boot size.

Clothing List

There can be prolonged periods of inactivity in very cold temperatures. Don't be afraid to bring too much! We suggest bringing light clothing of varying thickness that can be 'layered' to achieve comfort and versatility. The most important consideration for clothing is the ability to regulate temperature as you change from periods of activity to periods of rest. We discourage cotton clothing as it causes rapid heat loss when wet.

We suggest you bring:

  • Long underwear (top & bottom), polypro, wool or fleece

  • Warm pants (pref. insulated or fleece)

  • Warm shirt (not cotton)

  • Sweater (medium or lightweight)

  • Fleece Jacket (heavyweight)

  • Insulated jacket or vest

  • Waterproof jacket with hood (Gore-Tex or nylon)

  • Waterproof pants (Gore-Tex or nylon)

  • 2 sets Socks (wool outer & polypro liner)

  • Wool or fleece hat that will cover ears & fit under helmet

  • Waterproof climbing gloves &/or mitts plus spares

  • Knee-length Gaiters

  • Neck tube

Insurance

There is no charge for rescue. If we climb in Banff National Park you will need a day entry pass (c.$8) to qualify for free rescue. This pass can be obtained when you enter the Park. It is wise, though to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident whilst here.

Booking Information

Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. We require a $348 CDN deposit including tax with the balance due 8 weeks in advance. To avoid unnecessary cancellation penalties we suggest you take our cancellation insurance for an extra non-refundable $50 CDN, this must accompany your deposit.

Detailed booking instructions and conditions.

Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the course. Please view our sample waiver copy.

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PLEASE DON'T HESITATE TO CONTACT US IF
YOU NEED TO KNOW MORE ABOUT THIS COURSE!

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