Mount Athabasca

Agenda

Saturday:  Meet your guide at the Columbia Icefields Campground by the cook shelter at 7pm.  Please bring all of your gear with you.  We'll ensure that everyone is properly equipped, distribute any gear on loan or rent and discuss the route, objectives and meeting times for the next day. 

Sunday:  An early morning start (c. 3:00am) allows us to enjoy the incredible beauty of a mountain sunrise. The climb is not too technical but requires many of the things mountaineers must have: stamina, fitness, route finding skills and good judgment. 

Typically we will follow one of 2 routes.

1.The North Glacier route follows the Sunwapta Gl. to the base of the Silverhorn Ridge from where a traverse leads us over to the West Ridge (where it joins the AA Col route) which is followed over the peak of Silverhorn to the summit. This is a beautiful route for beginner alpinists and is often used as a descent for the 'AA' route. Our maximum ratio is 1:3. Return time is between 9 and 12 hours.

2.The AA Col route follows the glacier on the other side of the peak from the Sunwapta Gl. It leads to the 'col' (alpine pass) between Athabasca and Mt. Andromeda from where the West Ridge is followed over Silverhorn to the summit. Our maximum ratio is 1:3. Return time is between 9 and 12 hours.

A clear day will present summiteers with spectular views of the expansive Columbia Icefields and the magnificent surrounding peaks. 
 

Meeting Time & Place

Meet the guides at the "ICEFIELDS CAMPGROUND" by the cooking shelters at 7.00pm the evening before the climb. Have your gear with you. The campground is located 1 km south of the Icefields Centre on Hwy. 93. It is the closest one to the Centre. The guides will brief you about the climb and tell you where and when to meet in the morning.

Weather & Conditions

Please note that weather may still prevent a safe attempt on the mountain. In this case we will either schedule another peak or a day of mountaineering instruction. The mountains call the shots and the wise mountaineer takes heed. Thus we never guarantee climbs.

Group safety & technical gear (e.g. ropes & rack)  is included in the guide fee. You will need to supply personal clothing and gear (e.g. ice axe, crampons, helmet & harness). Some of these items can be rented and the cost included in your package price.

Yamnuska has a full range of climbing and personal camping gear for rent.

CAMPING GEAR

•Sleeping bag (3 season)
•Sleeping mat
•Pillow (optional)
•Duffel bag
 

CLOTHING LIST
We suggest layers of light, easily carried clothing that allow for fast and easy adjustment to best suit fast changing temperature conditions.  We discourage cotton clothing as it causes rapid heat loss when wet.  Feel free to call us if you have any questions about what to bring. This list covers items needed for all likely conditions during the mountaineering season. Your guide will go through your clothing and gear with you prior to the climb.

You will need to bring:

•LONG UNDERWEAR, top and bottom,  polypro, wool, capilene or fleece.
•WOOL/BLEND SOCKS (extra pairs).
•Warm LONG PANTS to climb in. These should be wool/nylon blend knickers, fleece pants, nylon exercise pants with light long johns or wool trousers.
•Light SHIRT or T-SHIRT.
•Wool or fleece LONG SLEEVE SHIRT with collar.
•FLEECE SWEATER (medium weight).
•Heavyweight fleece or insulated JACKET.
•Water proof OUTER JACKET with hood (Gore-Tex).
•Waterproof OUTER PANTS, preferably with sidezips on legs.
•Waterproof knee-length GAITERS that will fit over large boots .
•Waterproof mountaineering GLOVES.
•WARM HAT (that covers ears).
•SUNHAT with wide brim.
•NECK TUBE.
EQUIPMENT LIST
You will need to bring: (Items in blue are available to rent from Yamnuska)

•MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS: You will need proper mountaineering boots designed specifically for this use. Most hiking boots are not suitable not being firm enough, waterproof and not made to take crampons. Mountaineering boots are made from leather or plastic. Leather boots have either a semi-rigid or a rigid sole. Plastic boots have rigid soles. The most important feature of a mountaineering boot is comfort. Different brands seem to suit different feet. If buying try a few different pairs and if they are not comfortable don't buy them. There are many good brands. They include Asolo, Kayland, Koflach, la Sportiva and Scarpa.
•DAYPACK. Large enough to carry spare clothing, lunch, water and climbing gear.
•ICE AXE. For beginner instruction and ascents a regular glacier axe minimum 55cm length. For intermediate and advanced instruction and ascents an ice axe with curved pick (best is 55cm).
•Technical ICE CLIMBING TOOL for intermediate and advanced instruction and ascents.
•CRAMPONS. Must fit your boots.
•HARNESS. Sit harness preferred.
•HELMET.
•SUNGLASSES with good UV protection, we suggest 'glacier glasses'.
•Extra Strength SUN CREAM.
•Lip Cream.
•HEADLAMP with fresh batteries.
•WATERBOTTLE (1L minimum).
•POCKET KNIFE.
•BLISTER KIT ('moleskin', 'Second Skin')
•FIRST-AID Items (band-aids, ibuprofen & aspirin / Tylenol is enough as guides have a kit also).
•CAMERA.
•TREKKING POLE (S) (optional).
OPTIONAL ITEMS

We supply the following items, but if you have your own, please feel free to bring along - Your rack, gear sling, nut pick, belay device, prussick slings, locking biners, your guide will go through this with you to decide exactly which items you should carry on the climb.

Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. Full payment is required at time of booking.  We accept Visa, Mastercard, Canadian Cheques, Money Orders and Bank Drafts.  Credit card payments are easiest, especially for international travellers.

We ask that you review our detailed booking instructions and conditions.

Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the program. Please view our sample waiver copy.

We also request that you complete and return our on-line mountain experience questionnaire.

There are two basic types of insurance that most travelers need to consider: Medical and Cancellation/Trip Interruption Insurance. We offer our guests coverage for both and highly recommend you purchase it.

Emergency Medical Expenses Insurance:

It is wise to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident during your trip.  Obtain extra coverage if necessary.  There is no charge for rescue in the National and provincial Parks, however costs such as air or ground transportation, long term care and other services are not covered.

Cancellation/Trip Interruption Insurance:

We recognize that our guests’ schedules may change for many reasons; business, family, flight delays, injuries and other unplanned events.  For these eventualities the Trip Cancellation/Interruption insurance is a great way to protect your investment. 

For all your travel insurance requirements we recommend the Simpson Group.  This agency offers a wide range of travel insurance options including Trip Cancellation/Interruption, Travel Medical and Personal Effect Loss for Canadian and International Travelers.  We highly recommend purchasing this insurance.  For more information and to purchase a plan, visit the Simpson Group’s website.