Day 1: We'll meet at the Yamnuska office in Canmore at 7:30am check equipment and food, and then drive west to catch the bus into Lake O'Hara. We'll walk the shores of Lake O'Hara and Lake Oesa, two of the most beautiful lakes in the Rockies. Then we'll put on our helmets and thread our way up the steep talus and scree gully that leads to phenomenal Abbott Pass Hut. Built by Swiss Mountain Guides and Italian stone masons in the 1920s, this limestone mountain hut sits at 9598 feet astride a col that links Mt Lefroy to Mt Victoria. The hut is a National Historic Site, where else can you sit on the john with one foot in Alberta and the other in BC!
Days 2 & 3: Our objectives will be the West Face of Mt Lefroy and the Southeast Ridge of Mt Victoria, the later being one of the finest alpine ridge climbs in Canada. The mountains will decide which ascent we'll try first. However it plays out, we will be descending to the Canadian Alpine Centre in Lake Louise on Monday night. This may be via the Fuhrmann Ledges on Mt Lefroy, or by the Huber Ledges after an ascent of Mt Victoria, and possible ascent of Mt Huber, or we may opt to go down the way we came up. That night we'll share dinner in Lake Louise before collapsing into bed.
Day 4: A day to recover and relax. The best rock climbing in the Rockies is a half hour walk along the shore of Lake Louise. The hiking is as good as it gets, and there is the option of more mountaineering for those who have the energy. We'll enjoy another team dinner, then Barry Blanchard will present a slideshow "Good days in the Mountains on a Global Basis".
Days 5 - 7: We'll dedicate these days to more climbing around Lake Louise. Lake Louise is steeped in Canadian Alpine history and we'll take in as much of it as we can! There are a number of options depending on conditions and how energy levels are but a few of Barry's favourites are listed below:
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The traverse of Haddo Peak and Mt Aberdeen - a fine walk in the sky
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The North Peak of Mt Victoria
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Popes Peak
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The East Ridge of Unamed Peak
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Mt Collier
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Mt Whyte
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The Southwest Ridge of Mt Temple
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The North Glacier of Mt Hector
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The traverse from Mt Collier to the Narao Peak another fine walk in the sky, but a long one, one that will require an alpine bivouac. How exciting is that?
What we don't get this camp, we can save for the future.
Guides & Group Size
Barry is an Associate Director of Yamnuska involved in promotion of modern alpinism and mentoring of junior guides.
Canadian Mountain Guide and alpinist, Barry Blanchard, was born in Calgary, March 29, 1959. Twelve years later three boys navigated the Bow River through the western side of the city on a raft of nailed together railway ties, Barry was at the helm steering the adventure. He found mountain climbing in the books of his high school library, some of which are still in his possession.
A six month trip to the French Alps in 1980 set the course of Barry's life: to climb the steepest and most complicated faces of the world's great glaciated peaks.
Barry has enjoyed some success: the first ascent of The Andromeda Strain, 1983; the North Ridge of Rakaposhi, 1984; the first ascent of the apocalyptic North Pillar of North Twin; the West Ridge of Mt Everest, 1986; surviving the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat, 1988; a solo first ascent on the North Face of Kusum Kanguru, 1991; an attempt on K-2, 1993; first ascents in the St Elias mountains; M-16, a first ascent -in winter on the East Face of Howse Peak, 1999; the third ascent of the Infinite Spur on MT Foraker, 2000; the first ascent of Infinite Patience on the Emperor Face of Mt Robson, 2002.
More importantly Barry has enjoyed all of his outings, even the ones not included in the narrow definition of "success". Barry moved to the mountains in 1982 to pursue his Mountain Guiding career (he is an internationally certified -IFMGA- mountain guide) and has included making Hollywood features such as "K-2", "Cliffhanger" and "The Vertical Limit" in his professional life. Barry lives in Banff, Alberta, with his wife Catherine Mulvihill, whom he met on a Mt Everest expedition in 1994, their daughters Rosemary and Eowyn, and their dogs, Finnegan and Seamus.
Barry will be joined by a team of Yamnuska guides who all hold certifications through the ACMG/IFMGA and are experienced professionals who love to share their passion for the mountains. Maximum guide ratio on this program is 1:2. The maximum group size is 12.
Logistics
The program begins at the Yamnuska office at 07:30am on Day 1. The Yamnuska office is located at 200, 50 Lincoln Park. See this map for location.
Transportation
Transportation while on the program is not included. We rely on guest's personal vehicles to reach program locations. If flying in we recommend you rent a car from Calgary Airport. You may be able to share the cost with other participants.
Frequent shuttles connect Calgary International Airport and Canmore. Greyhound Bus Lines (1 800 661 8747) serves Canmore from points east and west along the Trans-Canada Highway.
Accommodation
Climbing on Mount Victoria, near Lake Louise, Alberta. James Blench photo.
During the trip we will be staying at the Abbot Pass Hut and at the Lake Louise Alpine Centre Hostel. Depending on conditions we may also be camping or on an alpine bivouac and you may need personal camping gear (group camping gear will be provided by Yamnuska). We will advise you prior to the departure. For accommodation in Canmore before and after the trip there are lots of options available including campgrounds, hostels, B'n'Bs, motels and hotels! Check accommodation options on our links page for our recommendations. For your convenience we can arrange hotel accommodations in Canmore for $160 per night. Double or single occupancy, the cost is the same. This accommodation can be booked with the trip online or by calling us. Subject to availability.
The Alpine Club Clubhouse (403 678 3200) is a good hostel here in Canmore with good facilities and reasonable prices.
Meals
All meals, snacks and drinks are supplied from lunch on Day 1 to lunch on Day 7. Mountain meals are made from lightweight ingredients. Please let us know, well in advance, if you have any dietary restrictions or prefer a vegetarian menu. For those with special dietary restrictions a food surcharge of $70 for the program will apply.
Equipment and Clothing
We supply group climbing gear such as ropes & hardware but you must bring your own personal camping & climbing gear (e.g. harness, helmet, ice axe), clothing and general equipment. We recommend that you bring 'rock shoes' in addition to mountaineering boots, we have both for rent. We can lend you personal climbing items, let us know, in advance, what you will need.
The equipment and clothing you bring with you will play a large role in the quality of your experience. Read the following suggestions and list carefully. If you have any questions or need clarification don't hesitate to call or write. There is room for substitution and changes but if you have any doubt do contact us.
CLOTHING LIST
We suggest layers of light, easily carried clothing that allows for fast and easy adjustment to best suit fast changing temperature conditions. We discourage cotton clothing as it causes rapid heat loss when wet. Feel free to call us if you have any questions about what to bring. This list covers items needed for all likely conditions during the mountaineering season. Your guide will go through your clothing and gear with you prior to the course.
You will need to bring:
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LONG UNDERWEAR, top and bottom, polypro, wool, capilene or fleece.
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WOOL/BLEND SOCKS (extra pairs).
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Warm LONG PANTS to climb in. These could be windproof nylon/synthetic blend mountaineering pants, fleece pants, nylon exercise pants with light long johns or wool trousers.
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Light SHIRT or T-SHIRT.
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Wool or fleece LONG SLEEVE SHIRT.
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FLEECE SWEATER (medium weight).
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Heavyweight fleece or insulated JACKET.
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Water proof OUTER JACKET with hood (Gore-Tex).
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Waterproof OUTER PANTS, preferably with side zips on legs.
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Waterproof knee-length GAITERS that will fit over large boots .
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Waterproof mountaineering GLOVES or wool / fleece mitts /gloves plus waterproof overmitts.
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Wool / fleece HAT that covers your ears and fits under a helmet.
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SUNHAT with wide brim.
Optional Items:
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ROCK SHOES
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NECK TUBE.
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lightweight RUNNING SHOES to wear around the hut
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Cotton SHORTS.
EQUIPMENT LIST
You will need to bring: (Items in blue are available to rent from Yamnuska, we can loan you the items in red). You must give us plenty of notice if wanting to rent or loan gear.
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a very light SLEEPING BAG. Ideally you will be able to get all your gear plus share of food and gear into a large daypack. Make sure you bring a stuff sac that will reduce your bag to its minimum size (i.e. one with compression straps) so you don't use up all the room in your pack.
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Large DAYPACK or small BACKPACK. Big enough to fit extra clothing, sleeping bag plus share of food and climbing gear.
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MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS: You will need mountaineering boots with rigid soles designed specifically for this use. Mountaineering boots are made from leather or plastic. The most important feature of a mountaineering boot is comfort. Different brands seem to suit different feet. If buying try a few different pairs and if they are not comfortable don't buy them. There are many good brands. They include Asolo, Kayland, Koflach, la Sportiva and Scarpa.
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ICE AXE, regular glacier axe minimum 55cm length.
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ICE CLIMBING TOOL(S), pref. with at least 1 hammer head.
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CRAMPONS, must fit your boots.
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SIT HARNESS, comfortable with adjustable leg loops to fit over several clothing layers.
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HELMET
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SUNGLASSES with good UV protection, we suggest 'glacier glasses'.
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Extra Strength SUN CREAM.
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Lip Cream with UV protection
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HEADLAMP with fresh batteries.
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WATER BOTTLE (1L minimum).
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POCKET KNIFE.
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BLISTER KIT ('moleskin', 'Second Skin')
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FIRST-AID Items (band-aids, ibuprofen & aspirin / Tylenol is enough as guides have a kit also).
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CAMERA and spare batteries.
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TREKKING POLE (S) (optional).
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EAR PLUGS (some of us may snore).
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Basic Toiletries - the Lake Louise Alpine Center has running water and showers
OPTIONAL ITEMS
We supply the following items, but if you have your own, please feel free to bring along - ice screws, prussic slings, locking biners.
Rentals
It is essential that you let us know well in advance if needing to rent or loan equipment.
Contact Yamnuska with clothing & gear questions
Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment.
7-Day Program: We require a 35% deposit at the time of booking. Final balance is due 8 weeks before the program start date.
3-Day program: We require a 35% deposit at the time of booking. Final balance is due 8 weeks before the program start date.
We ask that you familiarize yourself with our detailed booking instructions and conditions.
Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the program. Please view our sample waiver copy.
There are two basic types of insurance that most travellers need to consider: Medical and Cancellation/Trip Interruption Insurance. We offer our guests coverage for both and highly recommend you purchase it.
Emergency Medical Expenses Insurance:
There is no charge for rescue/evacuation in National Parks so long as you have a valid National Park Entry Pass (available at the park gate). However, it is also wise to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident while here.
Cancellation/Trip Interruption Insurance:
We recognize many of our guests are busy profesionals and their schedules can change without notice. We strongly recommend the optional 'Cancel for any reason' insurance through our adventure insurance provider. Flight delays and other unplanned events are unfortunately a reality and it may not be possible for us to delay a trip departure for a guest(s).
Yamnuska offers an "Adventure Travel Protection Plan" through Travel Guard insurance. This plan offers comprehensive coverage for all your travel needs including trip cancellation/interruption, emergency medical expenses, and personal effects loss. For more information and to purchase this coverage visit Travel Guard's website.
For the convenience and peace of mind for our guests, we chose Travel Guard as a comprehensive insurance provider. We highly recommend purchasing this insurance and ask that you familiarize yourself with their program and our cancellation policies (available under the Booking Info tab).