Our Approach: Guiding & Instruction
We have set up the guide ratios to allow us to adjust to your climbing ability and personal objectives. You may prefer to just get out and climb or you may prefer a little more emphasis on instruction, either way our 'small team' approach will allow you to get the most out of your week. Climbs will be chosen to give you the right amount of challenge and to showcase the climbing the area has to offer.
The program objective is to provide the opportunity to climb challenging routes for all levels of ability and to provide instruction in alpine rock climbing techniques. Instruction will focus on those skills needed for safe, efficient travel over 3rd, 4th and 5th class terrain.
Program Agenda
Day 1: Meet in Canmore at 7:30 am (or at Radium Hot Springs at 10:00 am). Drive to Bugaboo Provincial Park (c. 3 hrs), then hike up to the Kain Hut (c. 3 hrs). You are bound to be blown away by the location. The hut sits perched high on a bench above Bugaboo Creek. Just to the east, the Bugaboo Glacier gouges past Marmolata Spire to plunge in a broken frenzy of ice to the valley floor. It's behind the hut though that the scene explodes, for dwarfing otherwise spectacular spires nearby are the huge granite walls of Snowpatch and Bugaboo Spires.
Day 2-5: Split into small groups based upon climbing ability, experience and personal objectives.
Objectives may include but are not limited to:
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Pigeon Spire: West Ridge (the best 5.4 route in North America!)
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Bugaboo Spire: Kain Route (5.7), N.E. Ridge (5.8)
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Snowpatch Spire: S.E. Corner (v. long 5.7), S.W. Corner (classic 5.9), Krauss-McCarthy (5.8), plus many other good routes
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Crescent Spires: Lions Way (5.6), McTech Arete (5.10), Between the Ears (5.7)
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There are also several other less known routes offering great climbing at different levels.
Instructors & Group Size
Maximum guide to guest ratio is 1:3 on easier routes then 1:2 on more difficult routes. The guides are enthusiastic and extremely talented, they hold guide certification from the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides and we are licensed to operate in the area by B.C. Parks. Maximum group size is 8.
Location
The Bugaboos are a sub-group of the Purcell Mountains known for their distinctive spires. They are located west of the Columbia Valley and we reach them by driving west from Canmore to Radium Hot Springs then by driving along an improved logging road another 50km or so. Once at the end of the road we climb 3 hours to reach the Conrad Kain Hut which is located just below the Spires. This area is also famous for heliskiing in winter.
Meeting Time & Place
The program begins at the Yamnuska office at 7:30am on the first day. The Yamnuska office is located at 200, 50 Lincoln Park. See this map for location. If driving from British Columbia it may be easier for you to meet us at the Husky gas station in Radium Hot Springs instead. Be there and be ready to go by 10:00 am (MST). If meeting us there it is essential that you let us know in advance. The Husky station cannot be missed; it is at the junction of highways 93 and 95, right in Radium.
Transportation
Transportation while on the program is not included. We rely on guest's personal vehicles to reach program locations.
The 45 kilometer road into the park is a fairly well maintained logging road, however at certain times of year it can be difficult to traverse with a normal low clearance car. If renting a vehicle it is best to go with a full size car, Mini-van or SUV with higher clearance. Overloading a small car is not recommended unless you allot for extra time on the drive in.
Frequent shuttles connect Calgary International Airport and Canmore. We would be pleased to arrange ground transportation for you at time of booking.
Accommodation & Meals
The Conrad Kain Hut, a large attractive hut in a spectacular position beneath the 'Spires', will be the accommodation for the course. Sleeping areas are shared with sleeping mats provided. There is propane and hydro from a small hydroelectric generator to provide power for cooking. You will need to bring a small sleeping bag. All meals, snacks and drinks are supplied from lunch on Day 1 to lunch on Day 5. Please let us know, well in advance, if you have any dietary restrictions. A dietary surcharge will apply.
Accommodation in Canmore is not included. For your convenience we can arrange hotel accommodations in Canmore for $160 per night. Double or single occupancy, the cost is the same. This accommodation can be booked with the trip online or by calling us. Subject to availability. Hostel accommodations are also available for approximately $30/night. These can also be booked with the trip online subject to availability.
Excess luggage can be left at your hotel or our office.
Clothing & Gear
We supply group climbing gear such as ropes and hardware but you must bring your own personal climbing gear (e.g. harness, helmet, ice axe), clothing and general equipment.
We can lend you personal climbing items except for boots and shoes for which a rental charge applies.
We do recommend that you bring 'rock shoes' in addition to mountaineering boots.
Make sure that you let us know, in advance, what you will need to borrow and to rent.
The equipment and clothing you bring with you will play a large role in the quality of your experience. Read the following suggestions and list carefully. If you have any questions or need clarification don't hesitate to call or email. There is room for substitution and changes but if you have any doubt do contact us.
CLOTHING LIST
We suggest layers of light, easily carried clothing that allows for fast and easy adjustment to best suit fast changing temperature conditions. We discourage cotton clothing as it causes rapid heat loss when wet. Feel free to call us if you have any questions about what to bring. This list covers items needed for all likely conditions during the mountaineering season. Your guide will go through your clothing and gear with you prior to the program.
You will need to bring:
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LONG UNDERWEAR, top and bottom, polypro, wool, capilene or fleece.
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WOOL/BLEND SOCKS (extra pairs).
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Warm LONG PANTS to climb in. These could be windproof nylon/synthetic blend mountaineering pants, fleece pants, nylon exercise pants with light long johns or wool trousers.
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Light SHIRT or T-SHIRT.
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Wool or fleece LONG SLEEVE SHIRT with collar.
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FLEECE SWEATER (medium weight).
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Heavyweight fleece or insulated JACKET.
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Cotton SHORTS.
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Waterproof OUTER JACKET with hood (Gore-Tex).
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Waterproof OUTER PANTS, preferably with side zips on legs.
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Waterproof knee-length GAITERS that will fit over large boots .
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Waterproof mountaineering GLOVES or wool / fleece mitts /gloves plus waterproof overmitts.
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Wool / fleece HAT that covers your ears and fits under a helmet.
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SUNHAT with wide brim.
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NECK TUBE.
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RUNNING SHOES (you may wear these on approach to hut and at the hut).
EQUIPMENT LIST
You will need to bring: (Items in blue are available to rent from Yamnuska, we can loan you the items in red). You must give us plenty of notice if wanting to rent or loan gear.
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SLEEPING BAG. A summer bag is OK as the hut is reasonably warm. Make sure you bring a stuff sac that will reduce your bag to its minimum size (i.e. one with compression straps) so you don't use up all the room in your pack.
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BACKPACK. Big enough to fit extra clothing, sleeping bag, share of food, and cooking gear. Internal frame packs are most comfortable. A 65-70 Liter pack is suitable.
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LIGHTWEIGHT MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS. Ideally these should be light weight leather or synthetic mountaineering boots with either a semi-rigid or a rigid sole. It is possible to buy boots such as the La Sportiva "Trango" which is designed specifically for alpine rock and which can take a crampon. The disadvantage with this boot is that it is a specialist boot which is unsuitable for other types of mountaineering such as prolonged work on snow and ice. They will increase enjoyment on more technical rock. As always the most important feature of a mountaineering boot is comfort. Different brands seem to suit different feet. If buying, try a few different pairs and if they are not comfortable don't buy them. There are many good brands including: Asolo, Kayland, Koflach, la Sportiva and Scarpa.
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ROCK SHOES. Comfort is essential as you will be wearing these for prolonged periods.
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DAYPACK. Large enough to carry spare clothing, lunch, water and climbing gear.
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ICE AXE, regular glacier axe minimum 55cm length.
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CRAMPONS, must fit your boots.
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SUNGLASSES with good UV protection, we suggest 'glacier glasses'.
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Extra Strength SUN CREAM.
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Lip Cream.
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HEADLAMP with fresh batteries.
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WATERBOTTLE (1L minimum).
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POCKET KNIFE.
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BLISTER KIT ('moleskin', 'Second Skin')
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FIRST-AID Items (band-aids, ibuprofen & aspirin / Tylenol is enough as guides have a kit also).
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CAMERA and spare film.
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TREKKING POLE (S) (optional).
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EAR PLUGS for dorm sleeping.
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Music Player and or READING MATERIAL (optional of course).
OPTIONAL ITEMS
We supply the following items, but if you have your own, please feel free to bring along - Your rack, gear sling, nut pick, belay device, prussick slings, locking biners.
Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. A 35% deposit (including GST) is required at time of booking. Final payment is due eight weeks before the start of the program.
We ask that you familiarize yourself with our detailed booking instructions and conditions.
Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the program. Please view our sample waiver copy.
There are two basic types of insurance that most travelers need to consider: Medical and Cancellation/Trip Interruption Insurance. We offer our guests coverage for both and highly recommend you purchase it.
Emergency Medical Expenses Insurance:
It is wise to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident during your trip. Obtain extra coverage if necessary. In Bugaboos Provincial Park there may be a charge for rescue if you need to be evacuated by professional services.
Cancellation/Trip Interruption Insurance:
We recognize that our guests’ schedules may change for many reasons; business, family, flight delays, injuries and other unplanned events. For these eventualities the Trip Cancellation/Interruption insurance is a great way to protect your investment.
For all your travel insurance requirements we recommend the Simpson Group. This agency offers a wide range of travel insurance options including Trip Cancellation/Interruption, Travel Medical and Personal Effect Loss for Canadian and International Travelers. We highly recommend purchasing this insurance. For more information and to purchase a plan, visit the Simpson Group’s website.