Bugaboos Intro to Alpine Rock Agenda
Day 1:
We meet at the Yamnuska Office in Canmore at 7:30am (or Radium Hot Springs at 10:00am if you are coming from British Columbia) for introductions, a review of course goals and itinerary and equipment check. After packing up, it's a 3 hour drive through Radium Hot Springs and down the back roads of British Columbia into the wilderness of the Purcell Mountains in Bugaboo Provincial Park. A steep but stunning hike involving 5 km and 700m of elevation gain will put us at the comfortable Kain hut at 2230m. This will take us between 3 and 4 hours.
Day 2-4:
The glaciers and peaks in the Bugaboos will be our classroom to learn the skills required to become an independent alpine rock climber. These three days will have a combination of skills instruction and student lead trips with coaching from your Yamnuska certified guide. Common objectives may be The Hounds Tooth, East Post Spire, Crescent Spire, or any of the classic glacier traverses in the area.
Day 5:
We will set our sites on one of the larger and more challenging Spires in the area and put your new skills to the test. This will be a combination of instruction and observation as your guide shows you how to move quickly and efficiently on a challenging objective. Common objectives include: Pigeon Spire, Bugaboo Spire and Snowpatch Spire. Expect a big and challenging day.
Day 6:
A final shorter student lead objective in the area will be attempted before we descend to the vehicles and return to Canmore. The Bugaboos have many ideal student lead objectives that will build your confidence and give you the skills to start climbing alpine rock objectives. You will likely begin planning your next trip to the Bugaboos on your way back to the car!
Curriculum
There is considerable flexibility built into the delivery of this course, no course is exactly the same. Snow, weather and route conditions in Bugaboo Provincial Park will dictate the order to provide the highest quality program.
Key topics will be constantly revisited during the program.
Topics include:
Glacier Skills:
-
Snow and Ice Movement Review
-
Use of Ice Axe
-
Self Arrests
-
Snow and/or Ice Anchors
-
Walking with Crampons
-
Use of Rope on Glaciers
-
Crevasse Rescue –2 man rope team systems
Alpine Rock Scrambling Skills:
-
Safe Movement Skills
-
Route finding
-
Managing Loose Rock
-
Rope use
Rock Protection:
-
Placing Nuts and Cams
-
Clipping Protection
-
Building Anchors using gear and Boulders
-
The Multi Pitch System
Navigation:
-
Map and Compass Use
-
Route Planning
-
Pacing
Hazard Evaluation and Route Selection:
-
Rock Fall
-
Snow and Avalanche Conditions
-
Bergshrunds
-
Weather
-
Accident and Emergency Procedures
ALPINE CLIMBS!!! This is a 'hands-on' course and we go to the Bugaboos to climb! Skills are explained, demonstrated in the field and then put into practice by participants during glacier crossings and peak ascents in the Bugaboos. Expect to be sharing the lead, solving route finding problems and fully involved in the decision making process.
Instructors & Group Size
Maximum guide to guest ratio is 1:2. The guides are enthusiastic and extremely talented, they hold guide certification from the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides and we are licensed to operate in the area by B.C. Parks. Maximum group size is 8.
Location
The Bugaboos are a sub-group of the Purcell Mountains known for their distinctive spires. They are located west of the Columbia Valley and we reach them by driving west from Canmore to Radium Hot Springs then by driving along an improved logging road another 50km or so. Once at the end of the road we climb 3 to 4 hours to reach the Conrad Kain Hut which is located just below the Spires. This area is also famous for heliskiing in winter.
Meeting Time & Place
The program begins at the Yamnuska office at 7:30am on the first day. The Yamnuska office is located at 200, 50 Lincoln Park. See this map for location. If driving from British Columbia it may be easier for you to meet us at the Husky gas station in Radium Hot Springs instead. Be there and be ready to go by 10:00 am (MST). If meeting us there it is essential that you let us know in advance. The Husky station cannot be missed; it is at the junction of highways 93 and 95, right in Radium.
Transportation
Transportation while on the program is not included. We rely on guest's personal vehicles to reach program locations.
The 45 kilometer road into the park is a fairly well maintained logging road, however at certain times of year it can be difficult to traverse with a normal low clearance car. If renting a vehicle it is best to go with a full size car, Mini-van or SUV with higher clearance. Overloading a small car is not recommended unless you allot for extra time on the drive in.
Frequent shuttles connect Calgary International Airport and Canmore. Greyhound Bus Lines (1 800 661 8747) serves Canmore from points east and west along the Trans-Canada Highway.
Accommodation & Meals
The Conrad Kain Hut, a large attractive hut in a spectacular position beneath the 'Spires', will be the accommodation for the course. Sleeping areas are shared with sleeping mats provided. There is propane and hydro from a small hydroelectric generator to provide power for cooking. You will need to bring a small sleeping bag. All meals, snacks and drinks are supplied from lunch on Day 1 to lunch on Day 6. Please let us know, well in advance, if you have any dietary restrictions.
Accommodation in Canmore is not included. For your convenience we can arrange hotel accommodations in Canmore for $160 per night. Double or single occupancy, the cost is the same. This accommodation can be booked with the trip online or by calling us. Subject to availability.
You can also make your own arrangements. Check our links page for a range of recommended Canmore accommodations. In addition the Alpine Club of Canada Clubhouse (403 678-3200) is a good hostel here in Canmore with nice facilities and reasonable prices.
Excess luggage can be left at your hotel or our office.
Clothing & Gear
We supply group climbing gear such as ropes & hardware. We recommend you bring personal climbing gear (e.g. harness, helmet, ice axe) however we can lend some items if required. A rental charge applies for boots and climbing shoes. Clothing and general equipment will be your responsibility.
Make sure that you let us know, in advance, what you will need to borrow and to rent.
The equipment and clothing you bring with you will play a large role in the quality of your experience. Read the following suggestions and list carefully. If you have any questions or need clarification don't hesitate to call or email. There is room for substitution and changes but if you have any doubt do contact us.
CLOTHING LIST
We suggest layers of light, easily carried clothing that allows for fast and easy adjustment to best suit fast changing weather conditions. We discourage cotton clothing as it causes rapid heat loss when wet. Feel free to call us if you have any questions about what to bring. This list covers items needed for all likely conditions during the mountaineering season. Your guide will go through your clothing and gear with you prior to the program.
You will need to bring:
-
LONG UNDERWEAR, top and bottom, polypro, wool, capilene or fleece.
-
WOOL/BLEND SOCKS (extra pairs).
-
Warm LONG PANTS to climb in. These could be windproof nylon/synthetic blend mountaineering pants, fleece pants, nylon exercise pants with light long johns or wool trousers.
-
Light SHIRT or T-SHIRT.
-
Wool or fleece LONG SLEEVE SHIRT with collar.
-
FLEECE SWEATER (medium weight).
-
Heavyweight fleece or insulated JACKET.
-
Cotton SHORTS.
-
Waterproof OUTER JACKET with hood (Gore-Tex).
-
Waterproof OUTER PANTS, preferably with side zips on legs.
-
Waterproof knee-length GAITERS that will fit over large boots .
-
Waterproof mountaineering GLOVES or wool / fleece mitts /gloves plus waterproof overmitts.
-
Wool / fleece HAT that covers your ears and fits under a helmet.
-
SUNHAT with wide brim.
-
NECK TUBE.
-
RUNNING SHOES (you may wear these on approach to hut and at the hut).
EQUIPMENT LIST
You will need to bring: (Items in blue are available to rent from Yamnuska, we can loan you the items in red). You must give us plenty of notice if wanting to rent or loan gear.
-
SLEEPING BAG. A summer bag is OK as the hut is reasonably warm. Make sure you bring a stuff sac that will reduce your bag to its minimum size (i.e. one with compression straps) so you don't use up all the room in your pack.
-
BACKPACK. Big enough to fit extra clothing, sleeping bag, share of food, and cooking gear. Internal frame packs are most comfortable. A 65-70 Liter pack is suitable.
-
LIGHTWEIGHT MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS. Ideally these should be light weight leather or synthetic mountaineering boots with either a semi-rigid or a rigid sole. It is possible to buy boots such as the La Sportiva "Trango" which is designed specifically for alpine rock and which can take a crampon. The disadvantage with this boot is that it is a specialist boot which is unsuitable for other types of mountaineering such as prolonged work on snow and ice. They will increase enjoyment on more technical rock. As always the most important feature of a mountaineering boot is comfort. Different brands seem to suit different feet. If buying, try a few different pairs and if they are not comfortable don't buy them. There are many good brands including: Asolo, Kayland, Koflach, la Sportiva and Scarpa.
-
ROCK SHOES. Comfort is essential as you will be wearing these for prolonged periods.
-
DAYPACK. Large enough to carry spare clothing, lunch, water and climbing gear.
-
HARNESS. comfortable with adjustable leg loops to fit over several clothing layers.
-
ICE AXE, regular glacier axe minimum 55cm length.
-
CRAMPONS, must fit your boots.
-
SUNGLASSES with good UV protection, we suggest 'glacier glasses'.
-
Extra Strength SUN CREAM.
-
Lip Cream.
-
HEADLAMP with fresh batteries.
-
WATERBOTTLE (1L minimum).
-
POCKET KNIFE.
-
BLISTER KIT ('moleskin', 'Second Skin')
-
FIRST-AID Items (band-aids, ibuprofen & aspirin / Tylenol is enough as guides have a kit also).
-
CAMERA
-
TREKKING POLE (S) (optional).
-
EAR PLUGS for dorm sleeping.
-
Music Player and or READING MATERIAL (optional of course).
OPTIONAL ITEMS
We supply the following items, but if you have your own, please feel free to bring along - Your rack, gear sling, nut pick, belay device, prussick slings, locking biners.
Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. A 35% deposit (including HST) is required at time of booking. Final payment is due eight weeks before the start of the program.
We ask that you familiarize yourself with our detailed booking instructions and conditions.
Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the program. Please view our sample waiver copy.
Please ensure that you are covered for the cost of evacuation or rescue should you fall ill or be injured. Most health benefit plans and some travel insurance policies do cover this. Otherwise, in the event that you need these services you may be liable for the cost.
There are two basic types of insurance that most travellers need to consider: Medical and Cancellation/Trip Interruption Insurance. We offer our guests coverage for both and highly recommend you purchase it.
Emergency Medical Expenses Insurance:
In Bugaboos Provincial Park there may be a charge for rescue if you need to be evacuated by professional services. We strongly recommend a travel and medical insurance that will cover you in the unlikely event of an emergency.
Cancellation/Trip Interruption Insurance:
We recognize many of our guests are busy profesionals and their schedules can change without notice. We strongly recommend the optional 'Cancel for any reason' insurance through our adventure insurance provider. Flight delays and other unplanned events are unfortunately a reality and it may not be possible for us to delay a trip departure for a guest(s).
Yamnuska offers an "Adventure Travel Protection Plan" through Travel Guard insurance. This plan offers comprehensive coverage for all your travel needs including trip cancellation/interruption, emergency medical expenses, and personal effects loss. For more information and to purchase this coverage visit Travel Guard's website.
For the convenience and peace of mind for our guests, we chose Travel Guard as a comprehensive insurance provider. We highly recommend purchasing this insurance and ask that you familiarize yourself with their program and our cancellation policies (available under the Booking Info tab).