The towering tooth-like spires and broken glaciers of Bugaboo Provincial Park make this iconic alpine climbing zone the perfect venue for an intro to alpine rock course. The Bugaboos Intro to Alpine rock has been designed for people with basic mountaineering and rock climbing skills who would like to progress towards climbing more challenging alpine rock objectives. With the low guide to student ratios on this mountaineering course you can expect intensive personal instruction tailored to both your ability and objectives. This program is based from the Kain hut in the world famous Bugaboo Provincial Park, British Columbia.
Bugaboos Intro to Alpine Rock Agenda
We meet at the Yamnuska Office in Canmore at 7:30am for introductions, a review of course goals and itinerary and equipment check. After packing up, it’s a 4 hour drive through Radium Hot Springs and down the back roads of British Columbia into the wilderness of the Purcell Mountains in Bugaboo Provincial Park. A steep but stunning hike involving 5 km and 700m of elevation gain will put us at the comfortable Kain hut at 2230m. This will take us between 3 and 4 hours.
The glaciers and peaks in the Bugaboos will be our classroom to learn the skills required to become an independent alpine rock climber. These three days will have a combination of climbing skills instruction and student lead trips with coaching from your Yamnuska certified guide. Common objectives may be The Hounds Tooth, East Post Spire, Crescent Spire, or any of the classic glacier traverses in the area.
We will set our sights on one of the larger and more challenging Spires in the area and put your new skills to the test. This will be a combination of instruction and observation as your guide shows you how to move quickly and efficiently on a challenging objective. Common objectives include: Pigeon Spire, Bugaboo Spire and Snowpatch Spire. Expect a big and challenging (but fun and rewarding) day.
A final shorter student lead objective in the area will be attempted before we descend to the vehicles and return to Canmore. The Bugaboos have many ideal student lead objectives that will build your confidence and give you the skills to start climbing alpine rock objectives. You will likely begin planning your next trip to the Bugaboos on your way back to the car!
There is considerable flexibility built into the delivery of this course, no course is exactly the same. Snow, weather and route conditions in Bugaboo Provincial Park will dictate the order to provide the highest quality program.
Key topics will be constantly revisited during the program.
- Snow and Ice Movement Review
- Use of Ice Axe
- Self Arrests
- Snow and/or Ice Anchors
- Walking with Crampons
- Use of Rope on Glaciers
- Crevasse Rescue –2 man rope team systems
Alpine Rock Scrambling Skills:
- Safe Movement Skills
- Route finding
- Managing Loose Rock
- Rope use
- Placing Nuts and Cams
- Clipping Protection
- Building Anchors using gear and natural features
- The Multi Pitch System
- Map and Compass Use
- Route Planning
Hazard Evaluation and Route Selection:
- Rock Fall
- Snow and Avalanche Conditions
- Accident and Emergency Procedures
ALPINE CLIMBS!!! This is a ‘hands-on’ course and we go to the Bugaboos to climb! Skills are explained, demonstrated in the field and then put into practice by participants during glacier crossings and peak ascents in the Bugaboos. Expect to be sharing the lead, solving route finding problems and fully involved in the decision making process.
Instructors and Group Size
Maximum guide to guest ratio is 1:2. The guides are enthusiastic and extremely talented, they hold guide certification from the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides and we are licensed to operate in the area by B.C. Parks. Maximum group size is 8.
The Bugaboos are a sub-group of the Purcell Mountains known for their distinctive spires. They are located west of the Columbia Valley and we reach them by driving west from Canmore to Radium Hot Springs then by driving along an improved logging road another 50km or so. Once at the end of the road we climb 3 to 4 hours to reach the Conrad Kain Hut which is located just below the Spires. This area is also famous for heliskiing in winter.
Meeting Time and Place
The program begins at the Yamnuska office at 7:30am on the first day. The Yamnuska office is located at 200 – 50 Lincoln Park. See this map for location. Should it be more convenient, it may be possible to meet the guide and group in Radium, BC. Please contact us to discuss this option.
Transportation while on the program is not included. We rely on guest’s personal vehicles to reach program locations. Guides generally travel with guests to reach the trailhead.
The 45 kilometer road into the park is a fairly well maintained logging road, however at certain times of year it can be difficult to traverse with a normal low clearance car. If renting a vehicle it is best to go with a full size car, Mini-van or SUV with higher clearance. Overloading a small car is not recommended unless you allot for extra time on the drive in.
Accommodation and Meals
The Conrad Kain Hut, a large attractive hut in a spectacular position beneath the ‘Spires’, will be the accommodation for the course. Sleeping areas are shared with sleeping mats provided. There is propane and hydro from a small hydroelectric generator to provide power for cooking. You will need to bring a small sleeping bag. All meals, snacks and drinks are supplied from lunch on Day 1 to lunch on Day 6. For guests with dietary restrictions, we are able to modify the program food pack to meet your individual needs. As food pricing and preparation for these diets is more costly, we have implemented the following surcharges. For vegan, gluten free, lactose free, soy free, nut free or any similar type of single restriction menu requests there will be a $15/day surcharge. For a diet requiring any 2 restrictions a $25/day surcharge will apply. For any 3 restrictions a $30/day surcharge will apply. Vegetarian meals will not be surcharged. For more complex diets our kitchen staff will assess the restrictions to inform you if the diet can be accommodated and what surcharge would apply.
Accommodation in Canmore is not included. A variety of accommodation options exist in both Canmore and Banff, including campsites, hostels, all levels of hotels as well as condo style accommodation with kitchens or suites. We recommend that you book your own pre and post-trip accommodations well in advance as all levels of accommodations in the Bow Valley fill quickly.
Excess luggage can be left at your hotel or our office.
Clothing & Gear
The equipment and clothing you bring to this course will play a large role in the quality of your experience. Read the following suggestions and lists carefully. If you have any questions or need clarification, don’t hesitate to call or email.
Group climbing gear such as ropes and hardware is provided, but we recommend bringing your own personal climbing gear. Please let us know if you would like to use the following Yamnuska gear:
- Mountaineering ice axe (see additional information below)
- Climbing harness
- Climbing helmet
- Belay device with pear shaped locking carabiner
- 2 locking carabiners
- 2 non locking carabiners
- 2 x 5 m prussic cord (7mm diameter)
- 120 cm sling
You will need to bring:
- Lightweight mountaineering boots* (must be crampon compatible, see additional information below)
- Rock shoes*(see additional information below)
- Multiday pack* (60–70 litres)
- Daypack* (30-40 litres)(strongly recommended)
- Sleeping bag*
- Water bottle (1-2L)
- Sunscreen and SPF lip balm
- Headlamp (with fresh batteries)
- Ear plugs
- Blister kit
- First aid items (Our guides carry a first aid kit, but you may bring your own Band-Aids and anti-inflammatory medication if desired.)
- Trekking pole (optional)
- Music player and lightweight reading material (optional)
*These items are available for rent. Please advise us in advance.
When mountaineering, it is important to be able to adjust for the changing conditions. We recommend bringing clothing that can be layered to achieve comfort as you change from periods of activity to periods of rest. Cotton clothing is not appropriate as it causes rapid heat loss when wet.
We recommend you bring:
- Long underwear top and bottoms (light weight synthetic or wool)
- Socks (synthetic/wool, at least two pairs)
- Light synthetic shirt
- Softshell pants and jacket
- Midweight synthetic or down jacket
- Heavyweight insulated jacket
- Waterproof hardshell jacket with hood
- Waterproof hardshell pants (should have a full length side zip so they can be put on without taking off boots and crampons)
- Gaiters (big enough to fit over large boots)
- Waterproof mountaineering gloves
- Lightweight synthetic gloves
- Warm hat that fits under a helmet
- Sun hat
- Running shoes or sandals
Additional gear info:
Backpack: It is possible to use just one multiday backpack, as long as it is comfortable enough to wear while climbing. If bringing an additional day pack, this should be very light and compressible in order to fit inside the bigger pack on the approach hike.
Sleeping bag: We recommend a three-season bag rated to approximately 0 Celsius. A down bag will be lighter and more compressible for the weight than a synthetic bag. A compression stuff sack is recommended to reduce volume.
Lightweight mountaineering boots: A good pair of boots is essential. One good option is lightweight leather or synthetic mountaineering boots with either a semi-rigid or a rigid sole. It is possible to buy boots such as the La Sportiva “Trango” which is designed specifically for alpine rock and which can take a crampon.
Rock shoes: A shoe that has a flat sole and is not sized uncomfortably tight will be the best choice for a variety of climbs.
Crampons: Mountaineering crampons should have anti snow-balling plates, and need to be compatible with your boots. We use the Petzl Vasak crampon.
Mountaineering ice axe: Your ice axe should be 55-75 cm, and should be equipped with an adze. Yamnuska uses the Petzl Summit Axe.
Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. A 35% deposit (including GST) is required at time of booking. Final payment is due eight weeks before the start of the program.
We ask that you familiarize yourself with our detailed booking instructions and conditions.
Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the program. Please view our sample waiver copy.
There are two basic types of insurance that most travelers need to consider: Medical and Cancellation/Trip Interruption Insurance. We offer our guests coverage for both and highly recommend you purchase it.
Emergency Medical Expenses Insurance:
It is wise to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident during your trip. Obtain extra coverage if necessary. In Bugaboos Provincial Park there may be a charge for rescue if you need to be evacuated by professional services.
Cancellation/Trip Interruption Insurance:
We recognize that our guests’ schedules may change for many reasons; business, family, flight delays, injuries and other unplanned events. For these eventualities the Trip Cancellation/Interruption insurance is a great way to protect your investment.
For all your travel insurance requirements we recommend the Simpson Group. This agency offers a wide range of travel insurance options including Trip Cancellation/Interruption, Travel Medical and Personal Effect Loss for Canadian Travelers. We highly recommend purchasing this insurance.
Please note that this coverage is for Canadian residents only. For guests who are not from Canada and who are interested in the ‘Visitors to Canada’ insurance package please contact the Simpson Group directly at JSimpson@simpson-group.com and reference your Yamnuska Mountain Adventure’s trip.
$2250 CDN includes guided climbing and instruction in the bugaboos, Kain Hut fees, out-trip meals and use of specialized group climbing gear.
Not included: Transportation, Canmore accommodation, gratuities or Goods & Services Tax (GST).
Private climbing departures are very popular and are available from late June to Early September. Please visit our Bugaboos Ascents page for more details.
Trip Cancellation Insurance is available through the Simpson Group.
More climbing: Yamnuska guides and instructors are also available for private climbing in the Bugaboos and elsewhere before and after the program.
Is it for you?
This is a strenuous and demanding climbing program involving lots of height gain, not only to the peaks but also to the hut. You need to be in good shape as this program involves six consecutive days of alpine rock climbing and hiking over glaciers. Basic rock climbing and mountaineering skills are also required. In the context of Yamnuska’s programs we suggest you have at least the Snow and Ice Long weekend or Intro to Mountaineering and Outdoor Rock Intro or Rock Evolution.
Check out this website compiled by a past guest about this course.