Our goal is to have an enjoyable and challenging week of alpine mountaineering on the large peaks surrounding Lake Louise. We have chosen a week when it is reasonable to expect good conditions on all climbs.
From the Abbott Pass Hut at 2890m (9500 ft.) we can access:
Mt. Victoria (3464m or 11,362 ft.) by the S.E. Ridge. This is an enjoyable and exposed climb along a narrow ridge that can either be heavily snowed up with large cornices or can be a cat walk along ridge top ledges later in the season.
Mt. Lefroy (3423m or 11,227 ft.) by the West Face. This face is riven by gullies that are filled initially by snow which becomes ice as the season progresses.
From the Neil Colgan Hut we can access:
Mt. Fay (3234m. or 10,607 ft.) can be climbed either by the classic N. Face routes on steep ice or by the standard West Ridge on rock. We access the mountain from Moraine Lake via the famous Perren Route and stay at the Neil Colgan Hut, the highest permanent structure in Canada.
Other peaks in this area include: Mts. Huber, Lyttle, Quadra, Bowlen and Bident.
Day 1: We meet at the Yamnuska office in Canmore at 7:30am. After introductions, a review of goals and objectives we drive west to Lake Louise to catch the 10:30am shuttle to Lake O'Hara. Then we start the climb up to the Abbott Pass Hut, our base for the next two nights.
Day 2: At first light head towards Mt. Lefroy immediately east of the hut. We climb the steep snow and ice gullies to the summit.
Day 3: Again at first light we start the climb of Mt. Victoria right behind the outhouse! We start up broken rock and snow slopes before reaching the ridge before the first summit. A long traverse over the 'sickle' and up again brings us finally to the South (highest) Summit. If conditions are good it may be an option to descend towards Mt. Huber for a climb of that peak before descending the Huber Ledges to Lake O'Hara then returning to Lake Louise for the night at the Alpine Centre.
Day 4: We leave the Alpine Centre today with our objective to reach the Neil Colgan hut. We climb out of Moraine Lake, typically taking the Perren Route, to reach the Neil Colgan Hut below Mt. Lyttle. Those with somel energy left may scramble up Mt. Bowlen in the evening.
Day 5: Climb Mt. Fay, either by the steep ice of the N. Face or the rock ridge on the N.W. side.
Day 6: A short climb on Mt. Lyttle behind the hut before heading down the Perren route rappels and on down to Moraine Lake where the program finishes and you will have earned a rest.