YAMNUSKA: Guided Mountaineering, Rock and Ice Cimbing, Hiking and Skiing In The Canadian Rockies
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MOUNTAINEERING IN THE CANADIAN ROCKIES


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Mountaineering, Climbing, and Skiing In The Canadian Rockies
 Rock Transition

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Outdoor skills for indoor climbers

Dates   price   Meeting Details   Agenda   "Plus" Day   Instructors & Group Size  Difficulty & Prerequisites   Transport   Local Accommodation & Meals   Equipment & Clothing  Insurance & Park Passes   How to Book

These days most of us learn to rock climb at indoor gyms. There we typically gain advanced movement skills far more quickly than used to be the case outdoors. Despite these skills however the gym remains a controlled environment with minimal risk. Once we step onto outdoor rock the rules of the game change, especially if we'd like to progress onto traditional gear routes. To stay safe and have fun we need to redefine our parameters and that is the objective of this weekend course.

Outdoor climbing allows us to push movement, attitude and approach and a much less forgiving yet much more exhilarating arena. This program will deal with the hard skills needed for safe sport climbing: belay positioning, protecting and tactics, safe "switch-overs", route cleaning and lead tactics. The program will also address the judgmental aspects of risk and hazard evaluation, route identification and visualization of move sequences when holds are not readily apparent and have to be assessed as you climb. Finally we will teach gear placement and removal.

On the Monday following the course "Plus Days" will be available when the instructor ratio drops to 1:2 and you can get out and do a classic multi-pitch route.

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2008 Dates

May 31 - June 1; July 5 - 6; September 6 - 7

Price

$265 CDN covers instruction and use of technical gear. Accommodation and meals are not included but low cost, easy options exist which we can help organize for you. Cancellation insurance is available for $15. Goods and Services Tax (GST) is extra.  Gratuities not included.

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More climbing: Yamnuska guides and instructors are also available for private climbing after the course ... details .

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Meeting Time and Place

The course begins at the Yamnuska office at 8.00am on the Saturday morning. The Yamnuska office is located at 200, 50 Lincoln Park, Canmore. See this map for location.

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Course Agenda

Sport climbing at the "Back of the Lake" , N. RapaichSaturday:  8:00am At Yamnuska Office & Local Sport Climbing Area

  • Welcome, introduction, goals and agenda

  • Risk and Hazard assessment

  • Belays (sitting, protection, methods)

  • Variety of climbs introducing and practicing techniques need on real rock

  • Introduce clipping and stick clipping techniques for leading

  • "Switch-over" techniques

  • Lowering and route cleaning

Sunday:  At Local Climbing Area

  • Leading techniques for sport climbs

  • "Switch-overs"

  • Lowers and Rappels

  • More movement coaching

  • Gear placement and removal

  • Debrief and wrap-up by 5:00pm

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'Plus Days'  

Stay for an extra day after 'Rock Transition'  and put your new skills into practice on a classic Canadian Rockies multi-pitch climb such as those on Kid & Nanny Goat Buttresses and EEOR. The instructor to student ratio is 1:2.  We divide into compatible teams, choose a suitable 'multi-pitch' route (several rope lengths in height) and spend the whole day climbing it.

$215 plus GST. Available every Monday following 'Rock Transition'. (cancellation coverage $12)

Book the "Plus Day"

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Instructors & Group Size

Enthusiastic and extremely talented, your instructors hold climbing certification from the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides. Your safety and enjoyment are paramount to them. There will be a maximum of 12 students. Instructor/student ratios range down from 1:6.  On multi-pitch days 1:2 is the norm.  Minimum group size is 3. 

Difficulty & Prerequisites

You need to be an active gym climber, familiar with top-rope belay systems.

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Transportation

Rock Transition!To keep prices down participants are responsible for their own transport to Canmore and during the program. Canmore is a 1hour (100km) drive west from Calgary.

If you are flying from afar for the program we suggest that you rent a car for your visit. In addition to getting you to the climbing locations it will allow you to explore our region a bit after program hours. For example you can visit Banff and enjoy the hot pools and sample the numerous restaurants. If you want we can put other participants in touch with you who may be interested in sharing the cost of a rental car or who may be willing to use their vehicles in a car pool.

When booking please indicate if you are bringing a vehicle and, if so, whether your are willing or not to give other participants or instructors a ride in a car pool. If you are not driving here please indicate if you'd be willing to share the cost of a rental car or if you would prefer to car pool.

Frequent shuttles connect Calgary International Airport and Canmore. Greyhound Bus Lines (1 800 661 8747) serves Canmore from points east and west along the Trans-Canada Highway. Call 609 0300, 609 1490 or 609 8897 for taxis in Canmore.

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Accommodation & Meals

These are your responsibility. There are lots of options available including campgrounds, hostels, B'n'Bs, motels and hotels! Check accommodation options on our links page for our recommendations. The Alpine Club Clubhouse (403 678 3200) is a good hostel here in Canmore with good facilities and reasonable prices.

Food is not supplied. You will need lunch and something to drink each day. Bring plenty to drink and a lunch plus energy snacks.

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Equipment & Clothing

The course fee includes use of ropes, draws and shared technical gear although you should feel free to bring any gear you already have.

The weather encountered on this program varies greatly, with the courses at the beginning and the end of the season more prone to cold conditions.  The list below covers all possibilities.  Should sunny warm conditions be forecast some items may be unnecessary.  Remember that weather can change fast so even if the day starts out sunny you may still need rain gear in the afternoon.  Conditions on the higher climbs on the 'Plus Days' are often colder.

Clothing and Equipment List

  • Lunch, snacks and plenty to drink

  • Daypack (large enough for spare clothing, your lunch & personal and group climbing gear)

  • Sunglasses

  • Sun cream

  • Rain Gear

  • Clothing allowing for easy and complete range of movement

  • Warm weather gear (fleece jacket, long johns, warm hat, etc.)

  • Rock shoes

  • Harness

  • Chalk bag and chalk

  • Helmet (we will loan you this if necessary)

  • Hiking boots or running shoes for the hike to the climbing area.

Equipment Sales

As an authorized Petzl Charlet dealer we have a range of guide-recommended rock climbing gear available for purchase. A 5% discount applies if you are booked on a Yamnuska program with greater discounts built into our gear packages. We can ship to you or have your gear awaiting your arrival here. More Information

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Insurance

There is no charge for rescue. If we climb in Banff National Park you will need a day entry pass (c.$9) to qualify for free rescue. This pass can be obtained when we enter the Park. It is wise though to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident whilst here.

Booking Information

Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. We require full payment on booking. To avoid unnecessary cancellation penalties we suggest you take our cancellation insurance ($15), this must accompany your payment.

For detailed booking instructions and conditions, click here.

Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the course. Please view our sample waiver copy.

Book Rock Transition

Book the "Plus Day"

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