Ice Climbing Level 3 – Ice Leader

Day 1: 7:00 am At Yamnuska Classroom & Local Climbing Area 

• Welcome, introduction, goals and agenda 
• Check gear and adjust crampons 
• Risk and hazard assessments for ice climbing 
• Review of top-rope belay techniques, climbing communication, and climbing techniques 
• Placement and analysis of ice screws 
• Anchor construction review (using ice screws, V-threads, and bolts) 
• Introduction to lead belaying 
• Clipping quickdraws on lead 
• Lead tactics for single-pitch ice routes (managing differing ice quality and planning your lead) 
• Simulated leads (on top rope) 
• Cleaning the anchor (getting your gear back) – review and options 
• Rappelling with a backup 

Ice Leader ‘Plus Day’

Stay for an extra day after the Ice Leader course and put your new skills into practice on a classic Canadian Rockies multi-pitch climb. On this day, participants will not be leading the climb but will have the opportunity to put other skills into practice and watch a professional lead the pitches. The instructor-to-student ratio is 1:2, we divide into compatible teams, choose a suitable ‘multi-pitch route (several rope lengths in height) and spend the day climbing it. We have a seemingly endless list of multi-pitch ice climbs in the Banff, Canmore, Kananaskis and Lake Louise areas.

$459 plus GST. Available exclusively to Ice Leader participants as an optional additional day of multi-pitch climbing after the ‘Ice Climbing Level 3 – Ice Leader’ program.

Meeting Time and Place

The course begins at the Yamnuska classroom in Canmore at 7:00 am on the first day. The Yamnuska classroom is located at 100, 50 Lincoln Park, Canmore, Alberta. See this map for location.

Instructors & Group Size

The “Yam Ice Team” includes some of the best ice climbers and course instructors anywhere! Enthusiastic and extremely talented, they hold climbing certification from the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides and from other International Federation of Mountain Guide Association (IFMGA) countries. Your safety and enjoyment are paramount to them. There will be a maximum of 12 students and a minimum of 4. Instructor/student ratios range down from 1:6. In addition to being expert ice climbers, they are well trained to Yamnuska’s high customer service standards and are highly experienced course instructors.

Transportation

To help keep prices affordable, participants are responsible for their own transportation, as well as providing transportation for their guide during the program. Canmore is a 1 hour (100km) drive west of Calgary.

If you are flying from afar for the program we suggest that you rent a car for your visit. In addition to getting you to the climbing locations, it will allow you to explore our region a bit after program hours. For example, you can visit Banff and enjoy the hot pools and sample the numerous restaurants.

Park Passes

Please note that program venues may be within National Parks and/or Kananaskis Country. For programs where transportation is not provided by Yamnuska/Canadian Rockies Hiking by Yamnuska, guests will be required to purchase their own pass.

National Park passes are available both online at https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/voyage-travel/admission and in-person at National park gates and some information centres.

Kananaskis Country conservation passes are available online at https://www.alberta.ca/kananaskis-conservation-pass.aspx

Accommodation & Meals

Accommodation in Canmore is not included. A variety of accommodation options exist in both Canmore and Banff, including campsites, hostels, all levels of hotels as well as condo-style accommodation with kitchens or suites.  We recommend that you book your own pre and post-trip accommodations well in advance as all levels of accommodations in the Bow Valley fill quickly.

Food is not supplied. You will need lunch and something to drink each day. Each day bring plenty to drink and lunch plus energy snacks. We particularly suggest bringing a Thermos and hot drink.

Equipment

Yamnuska provides the following personal technical gear. Please feel free to bring your own items if desired.

• Crampons
• Climbing harness
• Climbing helmet
• Ice tools
• Belay device, carabiners, slings

We recommend you bring:

• Boots* (must be crampon compatible)
• Daypack* (40-45 litres)
• Microspikes (for the approach)
• Lunch, snacks
• Thermos flask and/or water bottle (1-2 litres combined volume)
• Sunglasses, protective eyewear and or sports sunglasses regardless of the weather conditions
• Sunscreen
• Hand Sanitizer
• Camera
• Headlamp
• Hand and toe warmers

*These items are available for rent. Please advise us in advance.

Clothing

There can be prolonged periods of inactivity in very cold temperatures throughout the course. Don’t be afraid to bring too much! We recommend bringing clothing that can be layered to achieve comfort as you change from periods of activity to periods of rest. Cotton clothing is not appropriate as it causes rapid heat loss when wet.

We recommend you bring:

• Long underwear top and bottoms (heavyweight synthetic or wool)
• Socks (synthetic/wool blend)
• Softshell pants and jacket
• Midweight synthetic or down jacket
• Waterproof hardshell jacket with hood
• Waterproof hardshell pants (should have a full-length side zip so they can be put on without taking off boots and crampons)
• Heavyweight parka (big enough to fit over all your other layers)
• Gaiters (big enough to fit over large boots)
• Waterproof mountaineering or ice climbing gloves (at least two pairs)
• Warm hat that fits under a helmet

• Alpha SV Jacket (Men’s & Women’s)
• Rush Jacket (Men’s & Women’s)
• Rush Bib Pant (Men’s & Women’s)
• Atom Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
• Atom SL Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
• Cerium Down Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
• Nuclei Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)

Additional gear info:

Boots: A good pair of boots is essential. They need to be warm and crampon compatible. You are welcome to try the Scarpa Mont Blanc boots that Yamuska provides.

Crampons:  A good waterfall ice crampon will have vertically oriented front points and some have the option to switch to a single point for mixed climbing. We use the Petzl Lynx for our ice and mixed climbing programs.

Climbing harness:  A winter climbing harness should be sized to fit over your winter clothing. It is recommended to have a harness with a dedicated spot for an Ice Clipper or Caritool.

Ice tools:  It is important to have a tool with a curved hand grip at the bottom. For thin ice and mixed climbing, it is much safer to have a hammer or nothing at all attached to the head of the tool, instead of an adze. For all-around ice and mixed climbing, Yamnuska uses the Petzl Quark. For steep ice and advanced mixed climbing, Yamnuska uses the Petzl Nomic.

Belay device:  Many options exist for belay devices. Ensure that your device has two slots for ropes, to facilitate rappelling. We provide the Petzl Verso or Petzl Reverso on our multi-pitch instructional programs.

Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. Our beginner ice climbing courses tend to fill up quickly. We require full payment on booking.

We ask that you make yourself familiar with our detailed booking instructions and conditions.

Risk is an inherent part of all mountain activities. We strive to manage and reduce it however, it is impossible to totally eliminate. Learn more about our safety and risk management approach here.  Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the program. Please view our sample waiver copy.

The Simpson Group offers a wide range of travel insurance options including Trip Cancellation/Interruption, Travel Medical, and Personal Effect Loss for both Canadian and International Travelers. Other providers offer similar services and we encourage you to select an appropriate level of coverage. We highly recommend purchasing this insurance to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. The two basic types of insurance that most travellers need to consider are Medical and Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance.

Insurance Risk 
One of the ways to mitigate risk is by purchasing appropriate insurance. Simpson Group Insurance Services who are travel & health risk specialists, work with technical and high-risk insurance solutions both in medical and non-medical spheres.  We highly recommend that you review your insurance needs to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. It is wise to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident during your trip. Simpson Group have a team standing by to answer any of your questions.

Emergency Medical Evacuation
While there is typically no charge for search & rescue in the National and Provincial Parks for active pass holders, costs such as air & ground ambulance after the rescue are not covered by your park pass. The chance of a large bill associated with this risk is a real possibility.

For Canadians
A common myth is that healthcare across provinces is fully covered. There are many things which do not carry interprovincial agreements. Ambulance services, medical evacuation, and some services which one province charges more than another you’d be responsible to pay the difference.

For Internationals
A common myth is that healthcare in Canada is free. Although it is less expensive than US healthcare, charges for non-residents can still be very high. Proper medical health insurance is essential if you were to get injured. Most coverages exclude rock climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing, backcountry skiing and the like. Simpson Group can make sure all those risks are well covered.

Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance
We recognize that our guests’ schedules may change for many reasons, business, family, flight delays, injuries, and other unplanned events.  For these eventualities, Trip Cancellation/Interruption insurance is a great way to protect your investment. We can assure you that circumstances do arise that prevent guests from participating in trips or courses and trip cancellation & interruption insurance is a relatively easy way to manage your level of risk of unforeseen events.

For all your travel insurance requirements we recommend Simpson Group Insurance Services.  For more information and to purchase a plan, visit Simpson Group’s website.