Mt. Andromeda sits on the Continental Divide at the east end of the Columbia Icefields. Neighboring the often-climbed Mt. Athabasca, Mt. Andromeda stands at 11,319 feet (3450 meters) and has an unobstructed view of the Columbia Icefields. First climbed in 1930 by a party of four Americans in just over 11 hours it was given the name Mount Cirque for its amphitheater views. This was the last of the Columbia Icefields peak to be climbed. However, Mt. Andromeda quickly made up for lost time and soon became a key challenge for climbers, offering over a dozen routes that range from intermediate to advanced alpine objectives.
There are several ways to get to the summit on Mt. Andromeda and the route of choice will be decided upon by our guiding team based on conditions, time of year, weather, and the type of alpine climbing season we are having. Route options include the East Ridge from the AA Col, the North Bowl, or the South Ridge.
These objectives are well suited to those who have climbed other glaciated peaks such as Mt. Athabasca or Mt. Hector and have some basic ice climbing experience. All the routes that we climb on this program will improve your technical mountaineering skills and provide a fun and memorable adventure.
Please note that if our scheduled climbing dates do not work for you, you can still enjoy this mountaineering trip. We would be happy to organize a more convenient time for you with up to two climbers. Please contact our office to arrange.
Day 1: Meet your guide at the Yamnuska Mountain Adventures classroom (#100 – 50 Lincoln Park, Canmore) at 4:00 pm. Please bring all your gear with you. We will ensure that everyone is properly equipped, distribute any gear on loan or rent, and discuss the route. We will then drive up to the Columbia Icefields Campground and prepare for the day ahead of us.
Day 2: An early morning start (approx. 2:00 am) is required so that we can get up and down the mountain before the heat of the day. We will be rewarded with the incredible beauty of a sunrise high on the mountain. The route selection will be decided upon by the climbing team based on conditions, time of year, weather, and the type of alpine climbing season we are having.
Guides and Group Size
The maximum guide to guest ratio is 1:2. Our guides are enthusiastic and extremely talented. They hold certification from the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides and we are licensed to operate in the area by Parks Canada. The maximum group size is 4, minimum 2.
Transportation
Transportation is not included in this program. We will rely on guests’ vehicles to reach the trailhead.
Canmore is situated 100 km (65 miles) west of Calgary on the Trans-Canada Highway. It is well served by scheduled bus lines both from Calgary (airport and downtown), Banff (20 km west), and points further west. Calgary International Airport is well connected to major cities throughout North America and Europe. Vehicle rental is available both in Calgary and in Canmore.
Frequent shuttles connect Calgary International Airport and Canmore.
Park Passes
Please note that program venues may be within National Parks and/or Kananaskis Country. For programs where transportation is not provided by Yamnuska/Canadian Rockies Hiking by Yamnuska, guests will be required to purchase their own pass.
National Park passes are available both online at https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/voyage-travel/admission and in-person at National park gates and some information centres.
Kananaskis Country conservation passes are available online at https://www.alberta.ca/kananaskis-conservation-pass.aspx
Accommodation and Meals
Camping on night 1 at the Columbia Icefields Campground is included in the cost. Meals are not included.
Accommodation in Canmore is not included. A variety of accommodation options exist in both Canmore and Banff, including campsites, hostels, all levels of hotels as well as condo-style accommodation with kitchens or suites. We recommend that you book your own pre and post-trip accommodations well in advance as all levels of accommodations in the Bow Valley fill quickly.
Excess luggage can be left at your hotel or our office.
Equipment & Clothing
The equipment and clothing you bring to this course will play a large role in the quality of your experience. Read the following suggestions and lists carefully. If you have any questions or need clarification, don’t hesitate to call or email.
Equipment
Yamnuska provides group climbing gear and the following personal technical gear. Please feel free to bring your own items if desired:
- Crampons
- Mountaineering ice axe
- Climbing harness
- Climbing helmet
- Prusik cord, slings, carabiners
We recommend you bring:
- Mountaineering boots* (must be crampon compatible)
- Daypack* (30-40 litres), (optional)
- Tent*
- Sleeping bag*
- Sleeping pad*
- Water bottle (1-2 litres)
- Sunglasses
- Sunscreen, SPF lip balm
- Camera
- Compass
- Headlamp (with fresh batteries)
- Earplugs
- Blister kit
- First aid items (Our guides carry a first aid kit, but you may bring your own Band-Aids and anti-inflammatory medication if desired.)
- Personal toiletries including hand sanitizer
- Trekking pole (recommended)
- Music player and lightweight reading material (optional)
- Personal camping equipment including cooking equipment, plastic mug, bowl, and eating utensils
*These items are available for rent. Please advise us in advance.
Clothing
When mountaineering, it is important to be able to adjust to the changing conditions. We recommend bringing clothing that can be layered to achieve comfort as you change from periods of activity to periods of rest. Cotton clothing is not appropriate as it causes rapid heat loss when wet.
We recommend you bring:
- Long underwear top and bottoms (lightweight synthetic or wool)
- Socks (synthetic/wool, at least two pairs)
- Light synthetic shirt
- Softshell pants and jacket
- Midweight synthetic or down jacket
- Heavyweight insulated jacket
- Waterproof hardshell jacket with hood
- Waterproof hardshell pants (should have a full-length side zip so they can be put on without taking off boots and crampons)
- Gaiters (big enough to fit over large boots)
- Waterproof mountaineering or ice climbing gloves (at least two pairs)
- Warm hat that fits under a helmet
- Sun hat
- Running shoes or sandals
Guests registered in Yamnuska programs (4 days or less) can borrow outerwear from the Arc’teryx store in Banff at no cost. Available items include jackets, insulated layers, and bib pants (men’s & women’s sizes). Simply show proof of enrollment at the store.
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Alpha SV Jacket (Men’s & Women’s)
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Rush Jacket (Men’s & Women’s)
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Rush Bib Pant (Men’s & Women’s)
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Atom Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
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Atom SL Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
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Cerium Down Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
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Nuclei Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
Additional gear info:
Daypack: For single day climbing trips your pack should be 30–40 litres.
Sleeping bag: We recommend a three-season bag rated at approximately -7°C. A down bag will be lighter and more compressible for the weight than a synthetic bag. A compression stuff sack is recommended to reduce volume.
Mountaineering boots: A good pair of boots is essential. They need to be warm and crampon compatible. Yamnuska uses Scarpa Mont Blanc boots.
Crampons: Mountaineering crampons should have anti-snow-balling plates, and need to be compatible with your boots. We use the Petzl Vasak.
Mountaineering ice axe: Your ice axe should be 55-75 cm, and should be equipped with an adze. Yamnuska provides the Petzl Summit Axe.
Climbing harness: Should be sized to fit over your cold-weather clothing. It is recommended to have a harness with a belay/rappel loop.
Climbing helmet: A comfortable, all-around climbing helmet that can fit over your winter hat.
Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. We require full payment on booking. We accept Visa, Mastercard, Electronic Transfer, Money Orders, and Bank Drafts. Credit card payments are easiest, especially for international travellers.
We ask that you familiarize yourself with our detailed booking instructions and conditions.
Risk is an inherent part of all mountain activities. We strive to manage and reduce it however, it is impossible to totally eliminate. Learn more about our safety and risk management approach here. Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the program. Please view our sample waiver copy.
The Simpson Group offers a wide range of travel insurance options including Trip Cancellation/Interruption, Travel Medical, and Personal Effect Loss for both Canadian and International Travelers. Other providers offer similar services and we encourage you to select an appropriate level of coverage. We highly recommend purchasing this insurance to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. The two basic types of insurance that most travellers need to consider are Medical and Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance.
Insurance Risk
One of the ways to mitigate risk is by purchasing appropriate insurance. Simpson Group Insurance Services who are travel & health risk specialists, work with technical and high-risk insurance solutions both in medical and non-medical spheres. We highly recommend that you review your insurance needs to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. It is wise to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident during your trip. Simpson Group have a team standing by to answer any of your questions.
Emergency Medical Evacuation
While there is typically no charge for search & rescue in the National and Provincial Parks for active pass holders, costs such as air & ground ambulance after the rescue are not covered by your park pass. The chance of a large bill associated with this risk is a real possibility.
For Canadians
A common myth is that healthcare across provinces is fully covered. There are many things which do not carry interprovincial agreements. Ambulance services, medical evacuation, and some services which one province charges more than another you’d be responsible to pay the difference.
For Internationals
A common myth is that healthcare in Canada is free. Although it is less expensive than US healthcare, charges for non-residents can still be very high. Proper medical health insurance is essential if you were to get injured. Most coverages exclude rock climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing, backcountry skiing and the like. Simpson Group can make sure all those risks are well covered.
Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance
We recognize that our guests’ schedules may change for many reasons, business, family, flight delays, injuries, and other unplanned events. For these eventualities, Trip Cancellation/Interruption insurance is a great way to protect your investment. We can assure you that circumstances do arise that prevent guests from participating in trips or courses and trip cancellation & interruption insurance is a relatively easy way to manage your level of risk of unforeseen events.
For all your travel insurance requirements we recommend Simpson Group Insurance Services. For more information and to purchase a plan, visit Simpson Group’s website.
Dates:
Private guiding options are available. Please contact us to discuss this option.
Trip Cancellation Insurance is available through the Simpson Group.
Please note you will be required to sign the Yamnuska Release of Liability, and Waiver of Claims prior to commencing the program. Please review the sample waiver prior to booking and call us with any questions.
More climbing: Yamnuska guides and instructors are also available for private climbing before and after the program.
Is it for you?
Guests signing up for this climb require previous experience with glacier travel and moderate angled ice climbing. Excellent fitness is also required.