Climb Mount Athabasca

Climbing Routes

There are several good routes on the mountain. All involve alpine starts (as early as 2:00 am, commonly 4:00 am) from the Icefields Parkway with a total elevation gain of 1500m.

For beginner and intermediate climbers, we recommend the following two routes which we often combine to make a traverse of the peak. Both involve travel on crevassed glaciers and on snow and ice slopes of moderate steepness. Our maximum ratio is 3 guests per guide. Guests will need to be familiar with the use of ice axe and crampons and with travelling roped on a glacier, this can be taught the day before the climb.

1. The North Glacier route follows the Sunwapta Gl. to the base of the Silverhorn Ridge from where a traverse leads us over to the West Ridge (where it joins the AA Col route) which is followed over the peak of Silverhorn to the summit. This is a beautiful route for beginner alpinists and is often used as a descent for the ‘AA’ route. Our maximum ratio is 1:3. Return time is between 9 and 12 hours.
2. The AA Col route follows the glacier on the other side of the peak from the Sunwapta Gl. It leads to the ‘col’ (alpine pass) between Athabasca and Mt. Andromeda from where the West Ridge is followed over Silverhorn to the summit. Our maximum ratio is 1:3 (see note below). Return time is between 9 and 12 hours.

For more experienced intermediate mountaineers we recommend the Silverhorn Ridge route which ascends the beautiful snow and ice ridge leading from the Sunwapta Gl. to the summit of the Silverhorn (a subsidiary summit just west of the main summit). This involves steeper climbing on snow and ice, sometimes up to 45 degrees in places. It is given a UIAA III+ grade. We can guide up to three people per guide but strongly recommend a ratio of 1:2. Return time is between 9 and 12 hours.

Advanced climbers will enjoy the classic North Face or North Face Bypass route. This involves 550m. of grade 3 ice finishing with an iced-up rock step in a gully. Once again the approach is via the Sunwapta Gl. Our maximum ratio is 1:2. Return time is between 10 and 14 hours.

Hazards:  Athabasca is a large glaciated peak.  Potential objective hazards include hidden crevasses, snow and ice avalanches, rockfall, and severe weather.  The safety record of guided parties is exceptionally good although accidents have happened to private groups.  In all mountaineering endeavors, there is a potential risk that cannot be eliminated.

Costs:

When hiring a guide you pay guide fees plus expenses. The guide fee is a daily rate, which varies according to the number of people per guide. Expenses you will incur include the cost of transportation for yourself and the guide to the area, accommodation fees and meals (for the guide also), and a charge for the guide’s time should he/she have to locate to the base the evening before. We can also have climbing and camping gear available for rent.

To simplify matters we have combined basic costs to offer package prices. To these basic packages, we can also add extras such as meals, camping costs, and rental climbing gear. Note that intermediate and advanced routes will incur a surcharge.

These prices are based on a few different scenarios you may consider. Remember that we can adjust the program to suit your needs. These are total prices, not per person. GST is extra. Prices in Canadian Dollars.

Climb only, pre-position the evening before:

Number of guests per guide	1 guest	2 guests	3 guests
Costs are total costs for the entire group (not per person)
Guide & Guide Expenses only	$1256.00	$1381.00	$1550.00
Add Meal Package	$46.00	$92.00	$138.00
5% GST not included. You are responsible for the cost of the guide’s transportation to the area. We suggest you pick the guide up in Canmore on your way to the Columbia Icefields. If the guide has to drive up there to meet you a charge of $381.00 is applied.

With training day before the climb (2 days with guide):

Number of guests per guide	1 guest	2 guests	3 guests
Costs are total costs for the entire group (not per person)
Guide & Guide Expenses only	$1952.00	$2202.00	$2452.00
Add Meal Package (lunch day 1 to lunch day 2)	$105.00	$210.00	$315.00
5% GST not included. You are responsible for the cost of the guide’s transportation to the area. We suggest you pick the guide up in Canmore on your way to the Columbia Icefields. If the guide has to drive up there to meet you a charge of $381.00 is applied.

Trip Cancellation Insurance is available through the Simpson Group.

With 2 training days before the climb (3 days with guide):

Number of guests per guide	1 guest	2 guests	3 guests
Costs are total costs for the entire group (not per person)
Guide & Guide Expenses only	$2980.00	$3355.00	$3730.00
Add Meal Package (lunch day 1 to lunch day 3)	$187.00	$374.00	$561.00
5% GST not included. You are responsible for the cost of the guide’s transportation to the area. We suggest you pick the guide up in Canmore on your way to the Columbia Icefields. If the guide has to drive up there to meet you a charge of $381.00 is applied.

Time Needed:

If you have the prerequisite experience for your route you will need to be in place at the Columbia Icefields the evening before the climb. You will usually be finished by mid-afternoon of the climbing day. If needing training before the climb we suggest a minimum of one day before the climbing day. If starting from scratch, two days is better. You can pick up the guide in Canmore early (c. 6:30 am) on the morning of the training day and still have ample time to drive to the Columbia Icefields and accomplish the necessary training.

Climbing Season:

Athabasca can be climbed anytime from mid-May through to early October. The best conditions typically occur through to early August after which the mountain can get quite icy. While it may be possible to climb in less than perfect conditions (our success rate would be around 80%) we must emphasize that bad weather and conditions are possible at any time and consequently we cannot guarantee a summit climb or easy conditions.

Guides and Guide Ratios:

Our guides are certified by the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides and by Parks Canada (Athabasca is on the border between Banff and Jasper National Parks) and we operate within the ‘terrain guidelines’ of the ACMG. The minimum qualification for this peak is the ACMG ‘Assistant Alpine Guide’.

The maximum guide to client ratio on the beginner routes is 1:3. Should the mountain be in icy condition or otherwise more difficult or challenging we reserve the right to lower the ratio.

Getting to Athabasca:

We climb from the Columbia Icefields Centre, which is 2.5 hours drive northwest from Canmore past Banff and Lake Louise (4 hrs from the Calgary Airport). Alternatively, it is a 1 hr drive southeast of Jasper. To reduce the cost of your climb we suggest you pick up your guide in Canmore on the way.

Park Passes

Please note that program venues may be within National Parks and/or Kananaskis Country. For programs where transportation is not provided by Yamnuska/Canadian Rockies Hiking by Yamnuska, guests will be required to purchase their own pass.

National Park passes are available both online at https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/voyage-travel/admission and in-person at National park gates and some information centres.

Kananaskis Country conservation passes are available online at https://www.alberta.ca/kananaskis-conservation-pass.aspx

Accommodation

There are a couple of standard options available. Mostly we stay at the campground.

Camping: There are two campgrounds in the area. Most climbers use the ‘Columbia Icefields Campground’ which runs on a first come first serve system. In peak summer it can be hard to find a place if you arrive late in the day. There is also an ‘RV’ campground nearby called ‘Wilcox Creek’.
The Glacier View Inn: For prices and reservations call 1-877-442-2623. If staying here you must bring your own breakfast supplies for the ascent day, as the restaurant is not open that early.
You will need to bring lunch and snack food with you each day. Bring plenty of high-energy snacks. Particularly on cold days, we may not stop for a long lunch break, opting for more frequent short snack breaks instead. You will also need to bring plenty of liquids, especially on the peak day. We can organize food for you. Please order this when first booking.

Accommodation in Canmore is not included. A variety of accommodation options exist in both Canmore and Banff, including campsites, hostels, all levels of hotels as well as condo-style accommodation with kitchens or suites.  We recommend that you book your own pre and post-trip accommodations well in advance as all levels of accommodations in the Bow Valley fill quickly.

Group safety & technical gear (e.g. ropes & rack)  is included in the guide fee. You will need to supply personal clothing and gear (e.g. ice axe, crampons, helmet & harness). Some personal gear items can be rented. When we know your personal gear rental requirements we can include them in your package price.

Yamnuska has a full range of climbing and personal camping gear for rent.

Arc’teryx Loaner Gear Now Available
Guests registered in Yamnuska programs (4 days or less) can borrow outerwear from the Arc’teryx store in Banff at no cost. Available items include jackets, insulated layers, and bib pants (men’s & women’s sizes). Simply show proof of enrollment at the store.

Available pieces include:

Thanks to our partners at Arc’teryx for making this opportunity available!

We will supply you with a quote that will include all expenses such as meals, accommodation, and rental gear when we know your requirements. Registration requires a deposit of 35% of the total cost. All guests must fill in an application form and an experience questionnaire.

A balance of payment is required eight weeks before trip commencement. Should you cancel more than eight weeks in advance of the trip, a $105 cancellation fee will apply. Cancellation between six and eight weeks before trip commencement will mean a loss of your deposit. Cancellation less than six weeks before trip commencement will result in a loss of all payments made.

We ask that you familiarize yourself with our detailed booking instructions and conditions.

Risk is an inherent part of all mountain activities. We strive to manage and reduce it however, it is impossible to totally eliminate. Learn more about our safety and risk management approach here.  Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the program. Please view our sample waiver copy.

If you need any rental gear please let us know early to ensure its availability.

The Simpson Group offers a wide range of travel insurance options including Trip Cancellation/Interruption, Travel Medical, and Personal Effect Loss for both Canadian and International Travelers. Other providers offer similar services and we encourage you to select an appropriate level of coverage. We highly recommend purchasing this insurance to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. The two basic types of insurance that most travellers need to consider are Medical and Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance.

Insurance Risk 
One of the ways to mitigate risk is by purchasing appropriate insurance. Simpson Group Insurance Services who are travel & health risk specialists, work with technical and high-risk insurance solutions both in medical and non-medical spheres.  We highly recommend that you review your insurance needs to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. It is wise to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident during your trip. Simpson Group have a team standing by to answer any of your questions.

Emergency Medical Evacuation
While there is typically no charge for search & rescue in the National and Provincial Parks for active pass holders, costs such as air & ground ambulance after the rescue are not covered by your park pass. The chance of a large bill associated with this risk is a real possibility.

For Canadians
A common myth is that healthcare across provinces is fully covered. There are many things which do not carry interprovincial agreements. Ambulance services, medical evacuation, and some services which one province charges more than another you’d be responsible to pay the difference.

For Internationals
A common myth is that healthcare in Canada is free. Although it is less expensive than US healthcare, charges for non-residents can still be very high. Proper medical health insurance is essential if you were to get injured. Most coverages exclude rock climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing, backcountry skiing and the like. Simpson Group can make sure all those risks are well covered.

Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance
We recognize that our guests’ schedules may change for many reasons, business, family, flight delays, injuries, and other unplanned events.  For these eventualities, Trip Cancellation/Interruption insurance is a great way to protect your investment. We can assure you that circumstances do arise that prevent guests from participating in trips or courses and trip cancellation & interruption insurance is a relatively easy way to manage your level of risk of unforeseen events.

For all your travel insurance requirements we recommend Simpson Group Insurance Services.  For more information and to purchase a plan, visit Simpson Group’s website.