Mt Victoria – South East Ridge

Day 1: We will meet at the Yamnuska classroom (#100-50 Lincoln Park) at 12pm for introductions, a review of goals, itinerary and equipment check.  From here we will drive to the Lake O’Hara parking lot.  After a short bus ride up to Lake O’Hara we will begin our approach passing Lake O’hara and working up towards Lake Oesa on a well-worn hiking trail before working our way up towards Abbot Pass. The final push to Abbot Pass is up a steep scree slope. Once at Abbot Pass, we will set up for our bivy and enjoy a great meal. The approach to Abbot Pass will take approximately 3-4 hours with an elevation gain of 850m (about 2788.71 ft). 

Day2: From our bivy site at Abbot Pass we will work our way towards the South East Ridge passing by the former site of the famed Abbot Pass Hut where a monument is in its place. We will start the route by scrambling and zigzagging our way through mainly 3rd and 4th class terrain for approximately 200m (about 656.17 ft) before gaining the ridge proper. From there we will cross through many rock and snow steps before walking across the narrow U-shaped Sickle. We will continue to scramble and climb, working our way towards a prominent rock step and the second buttress which we bypass before reaching the summit. For the descent we will reverse the ridge back to Abbot Pass. Our total round trip will be 6-8hours. Once back at Abbot Pass, we will return to Lake O’Hara and catch the bus back to our vehicles. 

Guides and Group Size

The maximum guide to guest ratio is 1:2. Our guides are enthusiastic and extremely talented. They hold certification from the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides, and we are licensed to operate in the area by Parks Canada. The maximum group size is 4.

Transportation

Transportation is not included in this program. We will rely on guests’ vehicles to reach the trailhead. 

Canmore is situated 100km (65miles) west of Calgary on the Trans-Canada Highway. It is well served by scheduled bus lines both from Calgary (airport and downtown), Banff (20km west), and points further west. Calgary International Airport is well connected to major cities throughout North America and Europe. Vehicle rental is available both in Calgary and in Canmore. 

Park Passes

Please note that program venues may be within National Parks and/or Kananaskis Country. For programs where transportation is not provided by Yamnuska/Canadian Rockies Hiking by Yamnuska, guests will be required to purchase their own pass.

National Park passes are available both online at https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/voyage-travel/admission and in-person at National park gates and some information centres.

Kananaskis Country conservation passes are available online at https://www.alberta.ca/kananaskis-conservation-pass.aspx

Accommodation and Meals

On the trail you will be staying in modern, lightweight 3- and 2-person weather-proof tents. 

All meals, snacks, and drinks are supplied from dinner on Day 1 to lunch on Day 2. For guests with dietary restrictions, we can modify the program food pack to meet your individual needs.  As food pricing and preparation for these diets is more costly, there is a surcharge.  Our kitchen staff will assess your restrictions to inform you if the diet can be accommodated and what surcharge would apply. Vegetarian meals will not be surcharged. 

Accommodation in Canmore is not included. A variety of accommodation options exist in both Canmore and Banff, including campsites, hostels, all levels of hotels as well as condo-style accommodation with kitchens or suites.  We recommend that you book your own pre and post-trip accommodations well in advance as all levels of accommodations in the Bow Valley fill quickly. 

Excess luggage can be left at your hotel or our office. 

Equipment and Clothing

The equipment and clothing you bring to this course will play a large role in the quality of your experience. Read the following suggestions and lists carefully. If you have any questions or need clarification, don’t hesitate to call or email. 

Equipment  

• Crampons*
• Mountaineering ice axe*
• Climbing harness*
• Climbing helmet*
• Prusik cord, slings, carabiners*
• Mountaineering boots* (must be crampon compatible) 
• Multiday pack* (55–65 litres) 
• Daypack* (30-40 liters), (optional) 
• Sleeping bag* 
• Sleeping pad* 
• Water bottle (2 litres) 
• Sunglasses 
• Sunscreen, SPF lip balm 
• Camera 
• Headlamp (with fresh batteries) 
• Earplugs 
• Blister kit 
• First aid items (Our guides carry a first aid kit, but you may bring your own Band-Aids and anti-inflammatory medication if desired.) 
• Personal toiletries including hand sanitizer 
• Trekking pole (recommended) 

*These items are available for rent. Please advise us in advance. 

Clothing 

When mountaineering, it is important to be able to adjust to the changing conditions. We recommend bringing clothing that can be layered to achieve comfort as you change from periods of activity to periods of rest. Cotton clothing is not appropriate as it causes rapid heat loss when wet. 

We recommend you bring: 

• Long underwear top and bottoms (lightweight synthetic or wool) 
• Socks (synthetic/wool, at least two pairs) 
• Light synthetic shirt 
• Softshell pants and jacket 
• Midweight synthetic or down jacket 
• Heavyweight insulated jacket 
• Waterproof hardshell jacket with hood 
• Waterproof hardshell pants (should have a full-length side zip so they can be put on without taking off boots and crampons) 
• Gaiters (big enough to fit over large boots) 
• Waterproof mountaineering or ice climbing gloves (at least two pairs) 
• Warm hat that fits under a helmet 
• Sun hat 

• Alpha SV Jacket (Men’s & Women’s)
• Rush Jacket (Men’s & Women’s)
• Rush Bib Pant (Men’s & Women’s)
• Atom Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
• Atom SL Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
• Cerium Down Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
• Nuclei Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)

Additional gear info: 

Backpack:  It is possible to use just one multiday backpack (55-65 litres) if it is comfortable to wear while climbing. If bringing an additional day pack, this should be very light and compressible in order to fit inside the bigger pack on the approach hike. 

Sleeping bag: We recommend a three-season bag rated at approximately -7°C. A down bag will be lighter and more compressible for the weight than a synthetic bag. A compression stuff sack is recommended to reduce volume. 

Mountaineering boots: A good pair of boots is essential. They need to be warm and crampon compatible. Yamnuska uses Scarpa Mont Blanc boots. 

Crampons:  Mountaineering crampons should have anti-snow-balling plates and need to be compatible with your boots. We use the Petzl Vasak. 

Mountaineering ice-axe: Your ice axe should be 55-75 cm and should be equipped with an adze. Yamnuska provides the Petzl Summit Axe. 

Climbing harness:  Should be sized to fit over your cold-weather clothing. It is recommended to have a harness with a belay/rappel loop. 

Climbing helmet:  A comfortable, all-around climbing helmet that can fit over your winter hat. 

Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. We require full payment on booking.  We accept Visa, Mastercard, Electronic Transfers, Money Orders and Bank Drafts.  Credit card payments are easiest, especially for international travellers.

We ask that you familiarize yourself with our detailed booking instructions and conditions.

Risk is an inherent part of all mountain activities. We strive to manage and reduce it however, it is impossible to totally eliminate. Learn more about our safety and risk management approach here.  Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the program. Please view our sample waiver copy.

The Simpson Group offers a wide range of travel insurance options including Trip Cancellation/Interruption, Travel Medical, and Personal Effect Loss for both Canadian and International Travelers. Other providers offer similar services and we encourage you to select an appropriate level of coverage. We highly recommend purchasing this insurance to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. The two basic types of insurance that most travellers need to consider are Medical and Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance.

Insurance Risk 
One of the ways to mitigate risk is by purchasing appropriate insurance. Simpson Group Insurance Services who are travel & health risk specialists, work with technical and high-risk insurance solutions both in medical and non-medical spheres.  We highly recommend that you review your insurance needs to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. It is wise to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident during your trip. Simpson Group have a team standing by to answer any of your questions.

Emergency Medical Evacuation
While there is typically no charge for search & rescue in the National and Provincial Parks for active pass holders, costs such as air & ground ambulance after the rescue are not covered by your park pass. The chance of a large bill associated with this risk is a real possibility.

For Canadians
A common myth is that healthcare across provinces is fully covered. There are many things which do not carry interprovincial agreements. Ambulance services, medical evacuation, and some services which one province charges more than another you’d be responsible to pay the difference.

For Internationals
A common myth is that healthcare in Canada is free. Although it is less expensive than US healthcare, charges for non-residents can still be very high. Proper medical health insurance is essential if you were to get injured. Most coverages exclude rock climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing, backcountry skiing and the like. Simpson Group can make sure all those risks are well covered.

Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance
We recognize that our guests’ schedules may change for many reasons, business, family, flight delays, injuries, and other unplanned events.  For these eventualities, Trip Cancellation/Interruption insurance is a great way to protect your investment. We can assure you that circumstances do arise that prevent guests from participating in trips or courses and trip cancellation & interruption insurance is a relatively easy way to manage your level of risk of unforeseen events.

For all your travel insurance requirements we recommend Simpson Group Insurance Services.  For more information and to purchase a plan, visit Simpson Group’s website.