Castle Mountain Alpine Rock-Climbing Adventure

Day 1 — Approach to the Castle Mountain Hut & Skills Review 

Meet at 8:00 a.m. at the Yamnuska classroom in Canmore for a program briefing, introductions, and equipment issue. After a final gear check, we drive to the Castle Mountain trailhead and begin our ascent toward the new Castle Mountain Hut. The approach winds through the forest before breaking into open alpine benches, offering dramatic views of Castle Mountain’s quartzite walls and buttresses. 

Upon arrival at the hut, we settle in and spend the afternoon reviewing: 

• Multi-pitch transitions and efficient anchor systems 
• Belay station management & communication 
• Movement on quartzite and short-stepping techniques 
• Hazard awareness: loose rock, route-finding, weather considerations 

If time allows, we’ll take a short reconnaissance to the base of tomorrow’s route. Dinner and overnight at the hut. 

Day 2 — Classic Multi-Pitch: Brewer Buttress (5.6–5.7)

Today we tackle one of the finest moderate alpine rock climbs in the Canadian Rockies: Brewer Buttress. This historic route offers a full-value day with sustained interest and incredible exposure high above the Bow Valley. 

Brewer Buttress Highlights 

• Long, varied climbing on solid, blocky quartzite
• Chimneys, corners, cracks, and airy steps, offering diverse movement
• Consistent low-fifth terrain that stays engaging without being overwhelming
• Stunning positions as the route gains height toward Castle’s upper benches
• A classic Rockies adventure, rich in history and aesthetic appeal

We ascend pitch after pitch of fun, moderate climbing, finishing on an elevated ridge with sweeping views across the valley. The descent follows established rappels or moderate scrambling, depending on conditions. 

After a full climbing day, we return to the hut for a well-earned dinner and relaxed evening. 

Day 3 — Goat Plateau Traverse to Eisenhower Tower 

Our final day links two of Castle Mountain’s most iconic alpine features: the broad Goat Plateau and the elegant summit tower of Eisenhower. After breakfast at the hut, we make our way toward the Goat Plateau, moving through broken ledges, short rock steps, and expansive alpine benches beneath Castle’s upper walls. 

Goat Plateau Approach 

The traverse across the Goat Plateau is a highlight in itself: 

• Wide alpine benches with dramatic exposure 
• Short Class 4 and low-5th steps where the guide may employ a rope 
• Jaw-dropping views across the Bow Valley, Protection Mountain, and the upper Castle pinnacles 
• Engaging movement and route-finding through complex alpine terrain 
• This platform leads naturally toward the base of Eisenhower Tower. 

Climb of Eisenhower Tower (5.5–5.6) 

From the far end of the Goat Plateau, we transition into the multi-pitch ascent of Eisenhower Tower, a classic objective that combines moderate climbing with spectacular summit ambience.
Expect: 

• Solid quartzite with fun low-fifth movement 
• Exposed but confidence-inspiring positions 
• A memorable final pitch onto the distinctive summit block 
• One of the best viewpoints on Castle Mountain 

Descent & Return to Canmore 

After taking in the summit, we rappel and scramble back toward the Goat Plateau and descend from the hut area to the trailhead. Expect to return to Canmore in the late afternoon after a rewarding final day of alpine adventure. 

Guides and Group Size

The maximum guide to guest ratio is 1:2. Our guides are enthusiastic and extremely talented. They hold certification from the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides and we are licensed to operate in the area by Parks Canada. The maximum group size is 4, minimum 2.

Transportation

Transportation is not included in this program. We will rely on guests’ vehicles to reach the trailhead.

Canmore is situated 100 km (65 miles) west of Calgary on the Trans-Canada Highway. It is well served by scheduled bus lines both from Calgary (airport and downtown), Banff (20 km west), and points further west. Calgary International Airport is well connected to major cities throughout North America and Europe. Vehicle rental is available both in Calgary and in Canmore.

Frequent shuttles connect Calgary International Airport and Canmore.

Park Passes

Please note that program venues may be within National Parks and/or Kananaskis Country. For programs where transportation is not provided by Yamnuska/Canadian Rockies Hiking by Yamnuska, guests will be required to purchase their own pass.

National Park passes are available both online at https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/voyage-travel/admission and in-person at National park gates and some information centres.

Kananaskis Country conservation passes are available online at https://www.alberta.ca/kananaskis-conservation-pass.aspx

Accommodation and Meals

Castle Mountain Hut accommodation is included for 2 nights.

Meals are included from lunch on Day 1 to lunch on Day 3. Mountain meals are made from lightweight ingredients.

For guests with dietary restrictions, we are able to modify the program food pack to meet your individual needs.  As food pricing and preparation for these diets is more costly, there is a surcharge.  Our kitchen staff will assess your restrictions to inform you if the diet can be accommodated and what surcharge would apply. Vegetarian meals will not be surcharged.

Please let us know the details by filling out a Food Questionnaire when you sign up for the program.

Accommodation in Canmore is not included. A variety of accommodation options exist in both Canmore and Banff, including campsites, hostels, all levels of hotels as well as condo-style accommodation with kitchens or suites.  We recommend that you book your accommodations well in advance as all levels of accommodations in the Bow Valley fill quickly.

Excess luggage can be left at your hotel or our office.

Equipment and Clothing

We supply group climbing gear such as ropes and hardware but we recommend that you bring your own personal climbing gear (e.g. harness and helmet), clothing, and general equipment. We can lend you some personal items should you require them.  A rental charge will apply for rock shoes. Let us know, in advance, what you will need.  It is required that you bring rock shoes in addition to mountaineering boots for this program.

The equipment and clothing you bring with you will play a large role in the quality of your experience. Read the following suggestion list carefully. If you have any questions or need clarification don’t hesitate to call or write. There is room for substitution and changes but if you have any doubt, do contact us.

Clothing List

We suggest layers of light, easily carried clothing that allows for fast and easy adjustment to best suit fast-changing weather conditions. Cotton clothing is not appropriate as it causes rapid heat loss when wet. Feel free to call us if you have any questions about what to bring.

You will need to bring:

• Wool/blend socks
• Long underwear – top – synthetic or wool
• Softshell climbing pants – these should be windproof nylon/synthetic blend mountaineering pants
• Mid-weight top – synthetic or wool
• Softshell jacket – this should be a windproof nylon/synthetic blend jacket
• Outer jacket and pants – waterproof with a hood (Gore-Tex)
• Insulated jacket – synthetic or down
• Mountaineering gloves – lightweight
• Hat – synthetic or wool that covers your ears and fits under a helmet
• Sunhat – with a wide brim

• Alpha SV Jacket (Men’s & Women’s)
• Rush Jacket (Men’s & Women’s)
• Rush Bib Pant (Men’s & Women’s)
• Atom Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
• Atom SL Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
• Cerium Down Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
• Nuclei Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)

Equipment List

You will need to bring: (Items in blue are available to rent from Yamnuska,  we can loan you the items in red). You must give us plenty of notice if wanting to rent or loan gear.

• Lightweight mountaineering boots – Or sturdy approach shoes. Ideally, mountain boots should be lightweight leather or synthetic with a semi-rigid sole.  It is possible to buy boots such as the La Sportiva ‘Trango’ which are designed specifically for alpine rock.  A sturdy pair of approach shoes would also be appropriate for this trip.  As always, the most important feature of a mountaineering boot or approach shoe is comfort. Different brands seem to suit different feet. If buying try a few different pairs and if they are not comfortable don’t buy them. There are many good brands. They include Asolo, Kayland, La Sportiva and Scarpa and 5.10.
• Daypack – Big enough to fit extra clothing, equipment and your food.  A 30-35 litre capacity is suitable.
• Rock Shoes – Comfort is essential as you will be wearing these for prolonged periods of time.
• Harness
• Helmet
• Belay device
• 3- season sleeping bag
• Sunglasses – with 100% UV protection
• Sun cream – extra strength
• Lip cream – with UV protection
• Headlamp – with fresh batteries
• Waterbottle
• Blister kit – ‘moleskin’, ‘second skin’ etc.
• First aid items – keep this small (band-aids, ibuprofen & aspirin/Tylenol, etc.)
• Personal toiletries including hand sanitizer
• Camera
• Trekking pole – must be collapsible (recommended)

Optional Items:

We supply the following items, but if you have your own, please feel free to bring them: nut tool, belay device with pear-shaped carabiner, 1 x 5m 7mm prusik, 1 x 120cm sewn sling and 2 x locking biners.

Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. We require full payment on booking.  We accept Visa, Mastercard, Certified  Cheques, Electronic Transfers and Bank Drafts.  Credit card payments are easiest, especially for international travellers.

We ask that you familiarize yourself with our detailed booking instructions and conditions.

Risk is an inherent part of all mountain activities. We strive to manage and reduce it however, it is impossible to totally eliminate. Learn more about our safety and risk management approach here.  Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the program. Please view our sample waiver copy.

The Simpson Group offers a wide range of travel insurance options including Trip Cancellation/Interruption, Travel Medical, and Personal Effect Loss for both Canadian and International Travelers. Other providers offer similar services and we encourage you to select an appropriate level of coverage. We highly recommend purchasing this insurance to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. The two basic types of insurance that most travellers need to consider are Medical and Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance.

Insurance Risk 
One of the ways to mitigate risk is by purchasing appropriate insurance. Simpson Group Insurance Services who are travel & health risk specialists, work with technical and high-risk insurance solutions both in medical and non-medical spheres.  We highly recommend that you review your insurance needs to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. It is wise to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident during your trip. Simpson Group have a team standing by to answer any of your questions.

Emergency Medical Evacuation
While there is typically no charge for search & rescue in the National and Provincial Parks for active pass holders, costs such as air & ground ambulance after the rescue are not covered by your park pass. The chance of a large bill associated with this risk is a real possibility.

For Canadians
A common myth is that healthcare across provinces is fully covered. There are many things which do not carry interprovincial agreements. Ambulance services, medical evacuation, and some services which one province charges more than another you’d be responsible to pay the difference.

For Internationals
A common myth is that healthcare in Canada is free. Although it is less expensive than US healthcare, charges for non-residents can still be very high. Proper medical health insurance is essential if you were to get injured. Most coverages exclude rock climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing, backcountry skiing and the like. Simpson Group can make sure all those risks are well covered.

Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance
We recognize that our guests’ schedules may change for many reasons, business, family, flight delays, injuries, and other unplanned events.  For these eventualities, Trip Cancellation/Interruption insurance is a great way to protect your investment. We can assure you that circumstances do arise that prevent guests from participating in trips or courses and trip cancellation & interruption insurance is a relatively easy way to manage your level of risk of unforeseen events.

For all your travel insurance requirements we recommend Simpson Group Insurance Services.  For more information and to purchase a plan, visit Simpson Group’s website.