Mt Fay – West Ridge

Climb Mt Fay

For multi-day trips, your guide will meet you at the Yamnuska classroom in Canmore (#100-50 Lincoln Park). It is possible to make other arrangements and meet in Lake Louise if required (in which case a transportation charge for the guide will apply).

We access the route along the Moraine Lake Road in Lake Louise.  A casual walk around Moraine Lake leads to an interesting log crossing and a large bowl that must be ascended before the climbing starts. Long sections of moving over lower angle rock position us for two pitches of steep but well-featured climbing. The final pitches on the ‘approach’ involve a spectacular steep pitch and an airy traverse towards the Fay Glacier. The glacier provides easy access to the chutes leading to the West Ridge of the mountain and the summit.

To descend we will retrace our route returning to Moraine Lake.

The first day is usually an approach to the hut where we enjoy a good meal and then get some sleep. If energy and time permit we can get a great vantage point from the top of Mt Little before dinner.

Please contact our office to organize this trip.

Guides and Group Size
The maximum guide to guest ratio is 1:2. Our guides are enthusiastic and extremely talented. They hold certification from the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides and we are licensed to operate in the area by Parks Canada. The maximum group size is 4, minimum 2.

Transportation
Transportation is not included in this program. We will rely on guests’ vehicles to reach the trailhead.

Canmore is situated 100km (65miles) west of Calgary on the Trans-Canada Highway. It is well served by scheduled bus lines both from Calgary (airport and downtown), Banff (20km west), and points further west. Calgary International Airport is well connected to major cities throughout North America and Europe. Vehicle rental is available both in Calgary and in Canmore.

Frequent shuttles connect Calgary International Airport and Canmore.

Park Passes

Please note that program venues may be within National Parks and/or Kananaskis Country. For programs where transportation is not provided by Yamnuska/Canadian Rockies Hiking by Yamnuska, guests will be required to purchase their own pass.

National Park passes are available both online at https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/voyage-travel/admission and in-person at National park gates and some information centres.

Kananaskis Country conservation passes are available online at https://www.alberta.ca/kananaskis-conservation-pass.aspx

Accommodation and Meals
Accommodations and meals can be included in this program for multi-day trips. Please contact the office to discuss options.

Accommodation in Canmore is not included. A variety of accommodation options exist in both Canmore and Banff, including campsites, hostels, all levels of hotels as well as condo-style accommodation with kitchens or suites.  We recommend that you book your own pre and post-trip accommodations well in advance as all levels of accommodations in the Bow Valley fill quickly.

Excess luggage can be left at your hotel or our office.

Clothing and Gear
We supply group climbing gear such as ropes and hardware. You must bring your own personal climbing gear (e.g. harness, helmet, ice axe), clothing, and general equipment. We can lend some personal items should you require them.  Make sure you let us know, in advance, what you will need to borrow.

CLOTHING LIST
We suggest layers of light, easily carried clothing that allows for fast and easy adjustment to best suit fast changing temperature conditions. Cotton clothing is not appropriate as it causes rapid heat loss when wet. Feel free to call us if you have any questions about what to bring. This list covers items needed for all likely conditions during the mountaineering season. Your guide will go through your clothing and gear with you prior to the course.

You will need to bring:

•LONG UNDERWEAR (top and bottom)  They should be synthetic such as Capilene or Merino Wool.
•SOCKS They should also be synthetic/Merino blend.  A good quality pair of socks goes a long way to preventing blisters! Some people like to use a thin liner sock underneath.
•MIDWEIGHT FLEECE (top only)  Some type of midweight top, whether it is a synthetic Polartec material or Merino wool.
•INSULATED JACKET.  This is essential for staying warm while taking breaks or when the weather gets cold and nasty!
•SOFTSHELL (Pants and Jacket)  Softshell pieces have the advantage of offering great weather protection, while still being highly breathable.  They can be worn for all but the wettest conditions.  In the summer, the Yamnuska staff uniform jacket is the Patagonia Simple Guide Jacket.
•WATERPROOF HARDSHELL (Pants and Jacket) A hardshell setup is essential for when the weather turns really wet.  Because you end up carrying these around a lot of the time, it is fine to pick something that is lighter weight.  It is important for the pants to have a full-length zip to fit over boots.  Gore-Tex, H2NO or similar materials work great.
•GLOVES  At least 2 pairs.  One should be a lighter-weight fleece or softshell material.  The other pair should be warm and waterproof.
•WARM HAT (that covers ears and fits under a helmet).
•SUNHAT with a wide brim.
•GAITERS  In addition to keeping snow out of your boots, gaiters protect your pants from crampon points and reduce tripping hazards.

• Alpha SV Jacket (Men’s & Women’s)
• Rush Jacket (Men’s & Women’s)
• Rush Bib Pant (Men’s & Women’s)
• Atom Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
• Atom SL Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
• Cerium Down Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
• Nuclei Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)

EQUIPMENT LIST
You will need to bring:
•DAYPACK – Big enough to fit extra clothing, equipment, and your food for a day. A 30-35 Liter capacity is suitable.•MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS: You will need mountaineering boots with crampon compatible soles.  As always, the most important feature of a mountaineering boot is comfort. Different brands seem to suit different feet. If buying, try a few different pairs and if they are not comfortable don’t buy them. There are many good brands. They include Asolo, Kayland, La Sportiva, and Scarpa.
•HARNESS
•HELMET
•ICE AXE – regular glacier axe, minimum 55cm length. Yamnuska uses the Petzl Summit Axe
•CRAMPONS – must fit your boots. Yamnuska uses the Petzl Vasak Crampon
•BELAY DEVICE
•SUNGLASSES with good UV protection
•Extra Strength SUNSCREEN.
•Lip Cream with UV protection
•HEADLAMP with fresh batteries.
•WATER BOTTLE (2L minimum).
•BLISTER KIT (‘moleskin’, ‘Second Skin’)
•FIRST-AID Items (band-aids, ibuprofen & aspirin / Tylenol is enough as guides have a kit also).
•CAMERA.
•SLEEPING BAG (for multi-day trips)
•TREKKING POLE (recommended, must be collapsible).

OPTIONAL MOUNTAINEERING GEAR
We supply the following items, but if you have your own, please feel free to bring them; nut tool, belay device with pear-shaped carabiner, 1 x 5m 7mm prusik, 1 x 20cm sewn sling and 2 x locking biners.

Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. Full payment is required at the time of booking.  We accept Visa, Mastercard, Canadian Cheques, Money Orders and Bank Drafts.  Credit card payments are easiest, especially for international travellers.

We ask that you review our detailed booking instructions and conditions.

Risk is an inherent part of all mountain activities. We strive to manage and reduce it however, it is impossible to totally eliminate. Learn more about our safety and risk management approach here.  Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the program. Please view our sample waiver copy.

The Simpson Group offers a wide range of travel insurance options including Trip Cancellation/Interruption, Travel Medical, and Personal Effect Loss for both Canadian and International Travelers. Other providers offer similar services and we encourage you to select an appropriate level of coverage. We highly recommend purchasing this insurance to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. The two basic types of insurance that most travellers need to consider are Medical and Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance.

Insurance Risk 
One of the ways to mitigate risk is by purchasing appropriate insurance. Simpson Group Insurance Services who are travel & health risk specialists, work with technical and high-risk insurance solutions both in medical and non-medical spheres.  We highly recommend that you review your insurance needs to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. It is wise to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident during your trip. Simpson Group have a team standing by to answer any of your questions.

Emergency Medical Evacuation
While there is typically no charge for search & rescue in the National and Provincial Parks for active pass holders, costs such as air & ground ambulance after the rescue are not covered by your park pass. The chance of a large bill associated with this risk is a real possibility.

For Canadians
A common myth is that healthcare across provinces is fully covered. There are many things which do not carry interprovincial agreements. Ambulance services, medical evacuation, and some services which one province charges more than another you’d be responsible to pay the difference.

For Internationals
A common myth is that healthcare in Canada is free. Although it is less expensive than US healthcare, charges for non-residents can still be very high. Proper medical health insurance is essential if you were to get injured. Most coverages exclude rock climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing, backcountry skiing and the like. Simpson Group can make sure all those risks are well covered.

Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance
We recognize that our guests’ schedules may change for many reasons, business, family, flight delays, injuries, and other unplanned events.  For these eventualities, Trip Cancellation/Interruption insurance is a great way to protect your investment. We can assure you that circumstances do arise that prevent guests from participating in trips or courses and trip cancellation & interruption insurance is a relatively easy way to manage your level of risk of unforeseen events.

For all your travel insurance requirements we recommend Simpson Group Insurance Services.  For more information and to purchase a plan, visit Simpson Group’s website.