A rock-climbing leader must have a quiver of practiced skills on hand to manage the various terrain and situations one may encounter. The goal of this five-day camp is to review, learn and practice these skills in order to have a fun, safe summer on the rock. Each of the five-days is devoted to a specific topic that is key to becoming a solid leader on rock: sport climbing tactics, trad climbing gear placements, multi-pitch technical systems, rope rescue and short roping. The camp is aimed at both novice rock climbers wanting to step out from the gym or crag environment as well as intermediate to advanced climbers who want to dial in new skills and refresh and review already known skills. By the end of the week, everyone should feel tuned up and ready to move into summer with confidence.
The week is based out of Canmore, Alberta where there are a variety of great crags that are ideal for fleshing out the curriculum. Students, at the very least, should ideally already know how to provide a top rope belay and have done some top-rope climbing.
Course Agenda
Day 1: 7:00 am at the Yamnuska office
- Objective: Sport Climbing
- Welcome, introduction, goals, agenda and waivers
- Gear check
- Risk management and hazard assessments for rock climbing
- Hazard awareness at the climbing area
- Review of top-rope belay techniques and communication
- Sport lead and belay review
- Movement coaching
- Tactics for improving onsighting and redpointing
- Falling
- Review of constructing and cleaning anchors
- Daily debrief
Day 2: 7:00 am at the Yamnuska Office
- Objective: Trad Climbing
- Hazard awareness at the climbing area
- Movement skills for trad climbing
- Trad placements (nuts, cams, other)
- Lead and runner strategy
- Mock trad leads with coaching and evaluation
- Trad anchors
- Daily debrief
Day 3: 7:00 am at the Yamnuska Office
- Objective: Multi-pitch Systems
- Organizing harness for multi-pitch
- Direct anchor belay with auto-locking device
- Lowering systems for auto-locking device
- Belay transitions and efficiency
- Harness belay versus fixed-point lead belay
- Multi-pitch rappel systems
- Practice with coaching
- Daily debrief
Day 4: 7:00 am at the Yamnuska Office
- Objective: Rope Rescue
- Hazard awareness at the climbing area
- Tying off belay device
- Escaping the belay
- Rescue lowering systems (load transfers, tied-off munter, back ups)
- Rescue raising systems (3:1, 5:1, block and tackle)
- Rescue rappel systems (tandem, reepschnur, counter-balance)
- Rope ascension
Day 5: 7:00 am at the Yamnuska Office
- Objective: Short Roping
- Hazard awareness at the climbing area
- Evaluating and grading 3rd, 4th and easy 5th class terrain
- Shortening the rope
- Seated hip belay
- Terrain belay
- Munter belay
- Negotiating narrow ridges
- Managing loose rock
- Daily debrief
Location
The course is based in Canmore, Alberta but expect to be travelling to different climbing areas of the Canadian Rockies in Kananaskis, Banff, Canmore, and Lake Louise.
Meeting Time and Place
The course begins at the Yamnuska office in Canmore at 7:00 am on the first day. The Yamnuska office is located at 200, 50 Lincoln Park, Canmore. See this map for location.
Instructors and Group Size
Sean Isaac is a fully certified Alpine Guide with the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides. He has been climbing for more than 30 years and instructing for the past 20 years. During that time, he has taught more than a thousand people the art of moving safely through the mountains. Based in Canmore, Alberta in the Canadian Rockies, Sean has established many new routes through the Canadian Rockies and has travelled all over the world in search of first ascents to the remote ranges of Alaska, Patagonia, Peru, Pakistan and Kyrgyzstan. Sean is also author of several climbing books including Mixed Climbing in the Canadian Rockies by Rocky Mountain Books, Mixed Climbing by Falcon Guides, Ice Climbing Leader Field Handbook by the Alpine Club of Canada and most recently How to Ice Climb by Falcon Guides. In addition, he has been the editor of the Canadian Alpine Journal for the past 14 years. He has appeared with featured segments in a number of climbing films including Beyond Gravity (2000) and Higher Ground (2008).
There will be a maximum of 6 students, and a minimum of 4. Instructor/student ratios range down from 1:6.
Transportation
To keep prices down participants are responsible for their own transport to Canmore and during the program. Canmore is a 1hour (100km) drive west of Calgary.
If you are flying from afar for the program we suggest that you rent a car for your visit. In addition to getting you to the climbing locations, it will allow you to explore our region a bit after the program hours. For example, you can visit Banff and enjoy the hot pools and sample the numerous restaurants.
Park Passes
Please note that program venues may be within National Parks and/or Kananaskis Country. For programs where transportation is not provided by Yamnuska/Canadian Rockies Hiking by Yamnuska, guests will be required to purchase their own pass.
National Park passes are available both online at https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/voyage-travel/admission and in-person at National park gates and some information centres.
Kananaskis Country conservation passes are available online at https://www.alberta.ca/kananaskis-conservation-pass.aspx
Accommodation & Meals
Accommodation in Canmore is not included. A variety of accommodation options exist in both Canmore and Banff, including campsites, hostels, all levels of hotels as well as condo-style accommodation with kitchens or suites. We recommend that you book your own pre and post-trip accommodations well in advance as all levels of accommodations in the Bow Valley fill quickly.
Food is not supplied. You will need lunch and something to drink each day. Each day bring plenty to drink plus lots of energy snacks. We particularly suggest bringing a Thermos and hot drink.
Equipment
The course fee includes the use of rock shoes and technical gear although you should feel free to bring any gear you already have.
The weather encountered on this program varies greatly, with the courses at the beginning of the season more prone to cold conditions. The list below covers all possibilities. Should sunny warm conditions be forecast some items may be unnecessary. Remember that weather can change fast so even if the day starts out sunny you may still need rain gear in the afternoon.
Clothing and Equipment List
- Lunch, snacks, and plenty to drink
- Daypack (large enough for spare clothing, your lunch & personal and group climbing gear)
- Sunglasses
- Sun cream
- Rain Gear
- Clothing allowing for easy and complete range of movement
- Warm weather gear (fleece jacket, long johns, warm hat, etc.)
- Rock shoes (available for your use at no extra charge, please let us know in advance if needing to use these)
- Harness (we will loan you this if necessary)
- Chalk bag and chalk
- Helmet (we will loan you this if necessary)
- Hiking boots or running shoes for the hike to the climbing area.
Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. We require a 35% deposit including tax at the time of booking. The final payment is due eight weeks before the start of the program.
We ask that you familiarize yourself with our detailed booking instructions and conditions.
Risk is an inherent part of all mountain activities. We strive to manage and reduce it however, it is impossible to totally eliminate. Learn more about our safety and risk management approach here. Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the program. Please view our sample waiver copy.
There are two basic types of insurance that most travellers need to consider: Medical and Cancellation/Trip Interruption Insurance. We offer our guests coverage for both and highly recommend you purchase it.
Emergency Medical Expenses Insurance:
It is wise to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident during your trip. Obtain extra coverage if necessary. There is no charge for rescue in the national and provincial parks, however, costs such as air or ground transportation, long-term care and other services are not covered.
Cancellation/Trip Interruption Insurance:
We recognize that our guests’ schedules may change for many reasons; business, family, flight delays, injuries and other unplanned events. For these eventualities, the Trip Cancellation/Interruption insurance is a great way to protect your investment.
For all your travel insurance requirements we recommend the Simpson Group. This agency offers a wide range of travel insurance options including Trip Cancellation/Interruption, Travel Medical and Personal Effect Loss for Canadian Travelers. We highly recommend purchasing this insurance. For more information and to purchase a plan, visit the Simpson Group’s website.
Please note that this coverage is for Canadian residents only. For guests who are not from Canada and who are interested in the ‘Visitors to Canada’ insurance package please contact the Simpson Group directly at JSimpson@simpson-group.com and reference your Yamnuska Mountain Adventure trip.
Dates:
PRICE:
$1125 CDN covers instruction and use of technical gear including boots. Accommodation and meals are not included but low cost, easy options exist which we can tell you about. GST is extra. Gratuities not included.
Trip Cancellation Insurance is available through the Simpson Group.
Please note you will be required to sign the Yamnuska Release of Liability, and Waiver of Claims prior to commencing the program. Please review the sample waiver prior to booking and call us with any questions.
Is it for you?
Participants, at the very least, should already know how to provide a top rope belay and have done some top-rope climbing.
