The leader must not fall! This is the code that all experienced ice leaders live by and one that can be learned through focused training. Sean Isaac has been ice climbing for more than three decades and instructing new ice leaders for 20 years. He has written a handful of books on the subject including recent releases: “Ice Climbing Leader Handbook” and “How to Ice Climb!” This is his very popular signature camp that takes novice/intermediate ice climbers and turns them into solid ice leaders. Even experienced ice climbers who already lead will glean new tricks and break old habits to help ensure them a safer ice career. Sean delves into the four pillars for safe and secure ice leading: movement skills, technical systems, gear selection and hazard management. Each day is a structured progression based on a time-tested formula that has been proven to work year after year.
The week is based out of Canmore, Alberta where there are a variety of world-class frozen waterfalls that offer excellent terrain for learning and improving. Students should ideally have done an introductory ice course as a prerequisite or at the very least a couple days of ice climbing.
Course Agenda
Day 1: 6:30 am at the Yamnuska classroom
- Welcome, introduction, goals, agenda and waivers
- Gear check
- Risk and hazard assessments for ice climbing
- Hazard awareness at the climbing area
- Top rope anchor set-up review
- Review of top-rope belay techniques and communication
- WI2 movement skills and practice/coaching on routes
- Placement and analysis of ice screws
- Daily debrief
Day 2: 7:00 am at the Yamnuska classroom
- Hazard awareness at the climbing area
- WI3 movement skills and drills
- Practice with coaching
- Ice anchors (two-screw anchors and V-threads)
- Daily debrief
Day 3: 7:00 am at the Yamnuska classroom
- Hazard awareness at the climbing area
- WI4 movement skills
- Practice with coaching
- Multi-pitch systems (top belay, transitions, fixed-point lead belay)
- Daily debrief
Day 4: 7:00 am at the Yamnuska classroom
- Hazard awareness at the climbing area
- One-handed screw placements
- Screw placement stances
- Racking tactics
- Lead strategy
- Mock leads
- Daily debrief
Day 5: 7:00 am at the Yamnuska classroom
- Hazard awareness at the climbing area
- More mocks lead
- Real leads (dependent on mock lead performance)
- Camp close
Location
The course is based in Canmore, Alberta but expect to be travelling to different climbing areas of the Canadian Rockies in Kananaskis, Banff, Canmore, and Lake Louise. We may also access the excellent ice climbing area near Field, BC, or Kootenay National Park.
Meeting Time and Place
The course begins at the Yamnuska classroom in Canmore at 6:30 am on the first day. The Yamnuska classroom is located at #100, 50 Lincoln Park, Canmore. See this map for location.
Instructors and Group Size
Sean Isaac is a fully certified Alpine Guide with the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides. He has been ice climbing for 30 years and instructing ice for the past 20 years. During that time, he has taught more than a thousand people the art of moving safely over frozen waterfalls. Based in Canmore, Alberta in the Canadian Rockies, Sean was a key member of the modern mixed climbing movement in late 90s and early 2000s establishing classics like Caveman, Cryophobia, The Asylum, Mixed Monster, Uniform Queen and The Real Big Drip to name a few and repeating test pieces like Musashi (M12). He has travelled all over the world in search of new routes to the remote ranges of Alaska, Patagonia, Peru, Pakistan and Kyrgyzstan. Sean is also author of several ice and mixed books including Mixed Climbing in the Canadian Rockies by Rocky Mountain Books, Mixed Climbing by Falcon Guides, Ice Climbing Leader Field Handbook by the Alpine Club of Canada and most recently How to Ice Climb by Falcon Guides. In addition, he has been the editor of the Canadian Alpine Journal for the past 14 years. He has appeared with featured segments in a number of climbing films including Beyond Gravity (2000) and Higher Ground (2008).
There will be a maximum of 6 students, and a minimum of 4. Instructor/student ratios range down from 1:6.
Transportation
To help keep prices affordable, participants are responsible for their own transportation, as well as providing transportation for their guide during the program. Canmore is a 1hour (100km) drive west of Calgary.
If you are flying from afar for the program we suggest that you rent a car for your visit. If renting a vehicle, we recommend requesting one equipped for winter driving conditions, including winter tires. In addition to getting you to the climbing locations, it will allow you to explore our region a bit after the program hours. For example, you can visit Banff and enjoy the hot pools and sample the numerous restaurants.
Park Passes
Please note that program venues may be within National Parks and/or Kananaskis Country. For programs where transportation is not provided by Yamnuska/Canadian Rockies Hiking by Yamnuska, guests will be required to purchase their own pass.
National Park passes are available both online at https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/voyage-travel/admission and in-person at National park gates and some information centres.
Kananaskis Country conservation passes are available online at https://www.alberta.ca/kananaskis-conservation-pass.aspx
Accommodation & Meals
Accommodation in Canmore is not included. A variety of accommodation options exist in both Canmore and Banff, including campsites, hostels, all levels of hotels as well as condo-style accommodation with kitchens or suites. We recommend that you book your own pre and post-trip accommodations well in advance as all levels of accommodations in the Bow Valley fill quickly.
Food is not supplied. You will need lunch and something to drink each day. Each day bring plenty to drink plus lots of energy snacks. We particularly suggest bringing a Thermos and hot drink.
Equipment
Yamnuska provides the following personal technical gear. Please feel free to bring your own items if desired.
- Boots (must be crampon compatible)
- Crampons
- Climbing harness
- Climbing helmet
- Ice tools
- Belay device, carabiners, slings
We recommend you bring:
- Daypack* (40-45 litres)
- Microspikes (for the approach)
- Lunch, snacks
- Thermos flask and/or water bottle (1-2 litres combined volume)
- Sunglasses, protective eyewear and or sports sunglasses regardless of the weather conditions
- Sunscreen
- Camera
- Headlamp
- Hand and toe warmers
*These items are available for rent. Please advise us in advance.
Clothing
There can be prolonged periods of inactivity in very cold temperatures throughout the course. Don’t be afraid to bring too much! We recommend bringing clothing that can be layered to achieve comfort as you change from periods of activity to periods of rest. Cotton clothing is not appropriate as it causes rapid heat loss when wet.
We recommend you bring:
- Long underwear top and bottoms (heavyweight synthetic or wool)
- Socks (synthetic/wool blend)
- Softshell pants and jacket
- Midweight synthetic or down jacket
- Waterproof hardshell jacket with hood
- Waterproof hardshell pants (should have a full-length side zip so they can be put on without taking off boots and crampons)
- Heavyweight parka (big enough to fit over all your other layers)
- Gaiters (big enough to fit over large boots)
- Waterproof mountaineering or ice climbing gloves (at least two pairs)
- Warm hat that fits under a helmet
Guests registered in Yamnuska programs (4 days or less) can borrow outerwear from the Arc’teryx store in Banff at no cost. Available items include jackets, insulated layers, and bib pants (men’s & women’s sizes). Simply show proof of enrollment at the store.
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Alpha SV Jacket (Men’s & Women’s)
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Rush Jacket (Men’s & Women’s)
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Rush Bib Pant (Men’s & Women’s)
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Atom Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
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Atom SL Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
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Cerium Down Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
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Nuclei Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
Additional gear info:
Boots: A good pair of boots is essential. They need to be warm and crampon compatible. You are welcome to try the Scarpa Mont Blanc boots that Yamuska provides.
Crampons: A good waterfall ice crampon will have vertically oriented front points and some have the option to switch to a single point for mixed climbing. We use the Petzl Lynx for our ice and mixed climbing programs.
Climbing harness: A winter climbing harness should be sized to fit over your winter clothing. It is recommended to have a harness with a dedicated spot for an Ice Clipper or Caritool.
Ice tools: It is important to have a tool with a curved hand grip at the bottom. For thin ice and mixed climbing, it is much safer to have a hammer or nothing at all attached to the head of the tool, instead of an adze. For all-around ice and mixed climbing, Yamnuska uses the Petzl Quark. For steep ice and advanced mixed climbing, Yamnuska uses the Petzl Nomic.
Belay device: Many options exist for belay devices. Ensure that your device has two slots for ropes, to facilitate rappelling. We provide the Petzl Verso or Petzl Reverso on our multi-pitch instructional programs.
Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. We require a 35% deposit including tax at the time of booking. The final payment is due eight weeks before the start of the program.
We ask that you familiarize yourself with our detailed booking instructions and conditions.
Risk is an inherent part of all mountain activities. We strive to manage and reduce it however, it is impossible to totally eliminate. Learn more about our safety and risk management approach here. Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the program. Please view our sample waiver copy.
The Simpson Group offers a wide range of travel insurance options including Trip Cancellation/Interruption, Travel Medical, and Personal Effect Loss for both Canadian and International Travelers. Other providers offer similar services and we encourage you to select an appropriate level of coverage. We highly recommend purchasing this insurance to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. The two basic types of insurance that most travellers need to consider are Medical and Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance.
Insurance Risk
One of the ways to mitigate risk is by purchasing appropriate insurance. Simpson Group Insurance Services who are travel & health risk specialists, work with technical and high-risk insurance solutions both in medical and non-medical spheres. We highly recommend that you review your insurance needs to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. It is wise to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident during your trip. Simpson Group have a team standing by to answer any of your questions.
Emergency Medical Evacuation
While there is typically no charge for search & rescue in the National and Provincial Parks for active pass holders, costs such as air & ground ambulance after the rescue are not covered by your park pass. The chance of a large bill associated with this risk is a real possibility.
For Canadians
A common myth is that healthcare across provinces is fully covered. There are many things which do not carry interprovincial agreements. Ambulance services, medical evacuation, and some services which one province charges more than another you’d be responsible to pay the difference.
For Internationals
A common myth is that healthcare in Canada is free. Although it is less expensive than US healthcare, charges for non-residents can still be very high. Proper medical health insurance is essential if you were to get injured. Most coverages exclude rock climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing, backcountry skiing and the like. Simpson Group can make sure all those risks are well covered.
Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance
We recognize that our guests’ schedules may change for many reasons, business, family, flight delays, injuries, and other unplanned events. For these eventualities, Trip Cancellation/Interruption insurance is a great way to protect your investment. We can assure you that circumstances do arise that prevent guests from participating in trips or courses and trip cancellation & interruption insurance is a relatively easy way to manage your level of risk of unforeseen events.
For all your travel insurance requirements we recommend Simpson Group Insurance Services. For more information and to purchase a plan, visit Simpson Group’s website.
Dates:
PRICE:
$1399 CDN covers instruction and use of technical gear including boots. Accommodation and meals are not included but low cost, easy options exist which we can tell you about. GST is extra. Gratuities not included.
Trip Cancellation Insurance is available through the Simpson Group.
Please note you will be required to sign the Yamnuska Release of Liability, and Waiver of Claims prior to commencing the program. Please review the sample waiver prior to booking and call us with any questions.
Is it for you?
Learning to Lead on ice is a big step both mentally and physically. This is an intermediate-level course so students should ideally have done an introductory ice course as a prerequisite or at the very least a couple days of ice climbing. However, experienced rock climbers (with experience leading on bolts) with no ice experience will be considered.