Intro to Alpine Rock in the Bugaboos

Bugaboos Intro to Alpine Rock Agenda

Day 1: We meet at the Yamnuska Classroom in Canmore at 7:30 am for introductions, a review of course goals and itinerary, and an equipment check. After packing up, it’s a 4-hour drive through Radium Hot Springs and down the back roads of British Columbia into the wilderness of the Purcell Mountains in Bugaboo Provincial Park. A steep but stunning hike involving 5 km and 700m of elevation gain will put us at the comfortable Kain Hut at 2230m. This will take us between 3 and 4 hours.

Day 2-4: The glaciers and towering peaks of the Bugaboos will serve as our classroom as we develop the skills needed to become confident, independent alpine rock climbers. Over the course of three days, you’ll receive a mix of hands-on climbing instruction and student-led climbs, all under the guidance and coaching of your Yamnuska-certified guide. Potential objectives include iconic routes like The Hounds Tooth, East Post Spire, Crescent Spire, or one of the classic glacier traverses that the area is known for.

Day 5: We’ll aim for one of the larger, more demanding spires in the area, giving you the perfect opportunity to put your newly acquired skills to the test. This day will blend instruction with practical experience, as your guide demonstrates how to move efficiently and confidently on a more challenging route. Potential objectives include iconic peaks like Pigeon Spire, Bugaboo Spire, and Snowpatch Spire. Be prepared for a big, exciting day that’s both challenging and deeply rewarding.

Day 6: A final shorter student-led objective in the area will be attempted before we descend to the vehicles and return to Canmore. The Bugaboos have many ideal student-led objectives that will build your confidence and give you the skills to start climbing alpine rock objectives. You will likely begin planning your next trip to the Bugaboos on your way back to the car!

Curriculum

There is considerable flexibility built into the delivery of this course, no course is exactly the same. Snow, weather, and route conditions in Bugaboo Provincial Park will dictate the order to provide the highest quality program.

Key topics will be constantly revisited during the program.

Topics include:

Glacier Skills:

• Snow and Ice Movement Review
• Use of Ice Axe
• Self Arrests
• Snow and/or Ice Anchors
• Walking with Crampons
• Use of Rope on Glaciers
• Crevasse Rescue –2-man rope team systems

Alpine Rock Scrambling Skills:

• Safe Movement Skills
• Route finding
• Managing Loose Rock
• Rope use

Rock Protection:

• Placing Nuts and Cams
• Clipping Protection
• Building Anchors using gear and natural features
• The Multi-Pitch System

Navigation:

• Map and Compass Use
• Route Planning
• Pacing

Hazard Evaluation and Route Selection:

• Rock Fall
• Snow and Avalanche Conditions
• Bergshrunds
• Weather
• Accident and Emergency Procedures

ALPINE CLIMBS!!! This is a ‘hands-on’ course and we go to the Bugaboos to climb! Skills are explained, demonstrated in the field, and then put into practice by participants during glacier crossings and peak ascents in the Bugaboos. Expect to be sharing the lead, solving route-finding problems, and fully involved in the decision-making process.

Instructors and Group Size

The maximum guide-to-guest ratio is 1:2. The guides are enthusiastic and extremely talented, they hold guide certification from the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides and we are licensed to operate in the area by B.C. Parks. The maximum group size is 4.

Location

The Bugaboos are a sub-group of the Purcell Mountains known for their distinctive spires. They are located west of the Columbia Valley and we reach them by driving west from Canmore to Radium Hot Springs than by driving along an improved logging road another 50km or so. Once at the end of the road we climb 3 to 4 hours to reach the Conrad Kain Hut which is located just below the Spires.

Meeting Time and Place

The program begins at the Yamnuska classroom at 7:30 am on the first day. The Yamnuska classroom is located at 100 – 50 Lincoln Park. See this map for location.  Should it be more convenient, it may be possible to meet the guide and group in Radium, BC.  Please contact us to discuss this option.

Transportation

Transportation while on the program is not included. We rely on guests’ personal vehicles to reach program locations. Guides generally travel with guests to reach the trailhead. Park Entry Passes are not included in the program cost.

The 45-kilometre road into the park is a fairly well-maintained logging road, however, at certain times of the year, it can be difficult to traverse with a normal low-clearance car. If renting a vehicle it is best to go with a full-size car, Mini-van or SUV with higher clearance. Overloading a small car is not recommended unless you allot extra time on the drive.

Park Passes

Please note that program venues may be within National Parks and/or Kananaskis Country. For programs where transportation is not provided by Yamnuska/Canadian Rockies Hiking by Yamnuska, guests will be required to purchase their own pass.

National Park passes are available both online at https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/voyage-travel/admission and in-person at National park gates and some information centres.

Kananaskis Country conservation passes are available online at https://www.alberta.ca/kananaskis-conservation-pass.aspx

Accommodation and Meals

The Conrad Kain Hut, a large attractive hut in a spectacular position beneath the ‘Spires’, will be the accommodation for the course. Sleeping areas are shared with sleeping mats provided. You will need to bring a small sleeping bag. There is propane and hydro from a small hydroelectric generator to provide power for cooking. There are some electrical outlets where devices can be charged, however, power from the generator can go down. The hut has both hot and cold non-potable water. Water is boiled for drinking. Should you wish to bring a steripen, water purification tablets, or other water filter system it is optional. All meals, snacks, and drinks are supplied from lunch on Day 1 to lunch on Day 6.

Mountain meals are made from nutritious, healthy ingredients and are cooked and dehydrated in our own kitchen by our chef. For guests with dietary restrictions, we are able to modify the program food pack to meet your individual needs.  As food pricing and preparation for these diets is more costly, there is a surcharge.  Our kitchen staff will assess your restrictions to inform you if the diet can be accommodated and what surcharge would apply. Vegetarian meals will not be surcharged.

Please let us know the details by filling out a Food Questionnaire when you sign up for the program.

Accommodation in Canmore is not included. A variety of accommodation options exist in both Canmore and Banff, including campsites, hostels, all levels of hotels as well as condo-style accommodation with kitchens or suites. We recommend that you book your own pre and post-trip accommodations well in advance as all levels of accommodations in the Bow Valley fill quickly.

Excess luggage can be left at your hotel or our office.

Clothing & Gear

The equipment and clothing you bring to this course will play a large role in the quality of your experience. Read the following suggestions and lists carefully. If you have any questions or need clarification, don’t hesitate to call or email.

Equipment

Group climbing gear such as ropes and hardware is provided, but we recommend bringing your own personal climbing gear. Please let us know if you would like to use the following Yamnuska gear:

• Crampons
• Mountaineering ice-axe (see additional information below)
• Climbing harness
• Climbing helmet
• Belay device with a pear-shaped locking carabiner
• 2 locking carabiners
• 2 non-locking carabiners
• 2 x 5 m prusik cord (7mm diameter)
• 120 cm sling

You will need to bring:

• Lightweight mountaineering boots* (must be crampon compatible, see additional information below)
• Rock shoes*(see additional information below)
• Multiday pack* (60–70 litres)
• Daypack* (30-40 litres)(strongly recommended)
• Sleeping bag*
• Water bottle (1-2L)
• Sunglasses
• Sunscreen and SPF lip balm
• Camera
• Headlamp (with fresh batteries)
• Earplugs
• Blister kit
• First aid items (Our guides carry a first aid kit, but you may bring your own Band-Aids and anti-inflammatory medication if desired.)
• Personal toiletries including hand sanitizer
• Trekking pole (recommended)
• Music player and lightweight reading material (optional)
• Chicken Wire: Chicken wire fencing is commonly placed around cars and held in place by wood and rocks. This is done to prevent wildlife from chewing on brake lines and wiring in the undercarriage of the car.

*These items are available for rent. Please advise us in advance. Gear Rental Price List

Clothing

When mountaineering, it is important to be able to adjust to the changing conditions. We recommend bringing clothing that can be layered to achieve comfort as you change from periods of activity to periods of rest. Cotton clothing is not appropriate as it causes rapid heat loss when wet.

We recommend you bring:

• Long underwear top and bottoms (lightweight synthetic or wool)
• Socks (synthetic/wool, at least two pairs)
• Light synthetic shirt
• Softshell pants and jacket
• Midweight synthetic or down jacket
• Heavyweight insulated jacket
• Waterproof hardshell jacket with hood
• Waterproof hardshell pants (should have a full-length side zip so they can be put on without taking off boots and crampons)
• Gaiters (big enough to fit over large boots)
• Waterproof mountaineering gloves
• Lightweight synthetic gloves
• Warm hat that fits under a helmet
• Sun hat
• Lightweight running shoes or sandals for hut use

Additional gear info:

Backpack:  It is possible to use just one multiday backpack, as long as it is comfortable enough to wear while climbing. If bringing an additional day pack, this should be very light and compressible in order to fit inside the bigger pack on the approach hike.

Sleeping bag: We recommend a three-season bag rated to approximately 0 Celsius. A down bag will be lighter and more compressible for the weight than a synthetic bag. A compression stuff sack is recommended to reduce volume.

Lightweight mountaineering boots: A good pair of boots is essential.  One good option is lightweight leather or synthetic mountaineering boots with either a semi-rigid or a rigid sole. It is possible to buy boots such as the La Sportiva “Trango” which is designed specifically for alpine rock and which can take a crampon.

Rock shoes:  A shoe that has a flat sole and is not sized uncomfortably tight will be the best choice for a variety of climbs.

Crampons:  Mountaineering crampons should have anti-snow-balling plates, and need to be compatible with your boots. We use the Petzl Vasak crampon.

Mountaineering ice-axe: Your ice axe should be 55-75 cm, and should be equipped with an adze. Yamnuska uses the Petzl Summit Axe.

Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. A 35% deposit (including GST) is required at the time of booking. The final payment is due eight weeks before the start of the program.

We ask that you familiarize yourself with our detailed booking instructions and conditions.

Risk is an inherent part of all mountain activities. We strive to manage and reduce it however, it is impossible to totally eliminate. Learn more about our safety and risk management approach here.  Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the program. Please view our sample waiver copy.

The Simpson Group offers a wide range of travel insurance options including Trip Cancellation/Interruption, Travel Medical, and Personal Effect Loss for both Canadian and International Travelers. Other providers offer similar services and we encourage you to select an appropriate level of coverage. We highly recommend purchasing this insurance to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. The two basic types of insurance that most travellers need to consider are Medical and Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance.

Insurance Risk 
One of the ways to mitigate risk is by purchasing appropriate insurance. Simpson Group Insurance Services who are travel & health risk specialists, work with technical and high-risk insurance solutions both in medical and non-medical spheres.  We highly recommend that you review your insurance needs to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. It is wise to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident during your trip. Simpson Group have a team standing by to answer any of your questions.

Emergency Medical Evacuation
While there is typically no charge for search & rescue in the National and Provincial Parks for active pass holders, costs such as air & ground ambulance after the rescue are not covered by your park pass. The chance of a large bill associated with this risk is a real possibility.

For Canadians
A common myth is that healthcare across provinces is fully covered. There are many things which do not carry interprovincial agreements. Ambulance services, medical evacuation, and some services which one province charges more than another you’d be responsible to pay the difference.

For Internationals
A common myth is that healthcare in Canada is free. Although it is less expensive than US healthcare, charges for non-residents can still be very high. Proper medical health insurance is essential if you were to get injured. Most coverages exclude rock climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing, backcountry skiing and the like. Simpson Group can make sure all those risks are well covered.

Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance
We recognize that our guests’ schedules may change for many reasons, business, family, flight delays, injuries, and other unplanned events.  For these eventualities, Trip Cancellation/Interruption insurance is a great way to protect your investment. We can assure you that circumstances do arise that prevent guests from participating in trips or courses and trip cancellation & interruption insurance is a relatively easy way to manage your level of risk of unforeseen events.

For all your travel insurance requirements we recommend Simpson Group Insurance Services.  For more information and to purchase a plan, visit Simpson Group’s website.