In the heart of northern Mexico, nestled within the rugged landscapes of the Sierra Madre Oriental mountains, lies a rock climber’s paradise – El Potrero Chico. This hidden gem has gained international acclaim for its towering limestone cliffs, breathtaking vistas, and world-class rock climbing.
El Potrero Chico, which translates to the “The Little Corral,” is renowned for its exceptional climbing routes. With over 600 routes to choose from, ranging in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.13, climbers can find something to suit their abilities. The multi-pitch routes, some reaching up to 2,000 feet in height, reward climbers with breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding mountains.
The unique geological formations of El Potrero Chico contribute to the allure of the climbing experience. The limestone walls, sculpted by millions of years of geological processes, offer pockets, crimps, and tufas that make for unique and engaging climbing. The relatively mild climate of the region makes El Potrero Chico an excellent fall and winter destination for climbers seeking to escape the colder climates.
Escaping from the cold start to the Canadian winter is the plan with our El Potrero Chico Rock Road Trip. This year, Claire, Janice, and Bri joined Yamnuska guides Jacob and me, Jesse. We started the trip with some single-pitch routes at the Mota Wall to get a feel for the rock. Our following day we jumped straight into the multi pitch routes El Potrero is known for. Jacob and Janice climbed “Treasures of the Sierra Madre” while Clarie, Bri and I tackled “Poncho Villa Rides Again”. Both routes are known for being tough for the grade and require crack climbing skills to move through the mid-5.10 cruxes over the 5-7 pitches. The challenge was increased by some occasional wet rock during the crux sections. Nice work Claire, Janice, and Bri!
“Space Boys”, a 5.10d and 11 pitch route, was on the tick list for Claire. A committing and blind traverse high on the route with the exposure pulling hard took some time to sort out and was the psychological crux of the week for Clarie. Well done finishing this one, never any doubt!
Janice had the chance to climb “El Sendero Diablo” (The Devil’s Path) on the Outrage Wall. This 6 pitch route packs a punch at 5.11c. Three pitches of 5.11 and one of 5.10+ guard a successful accent which was completed. Strong as usual Janice!
Bri climbed until her fingers bled, literally. Motivated every day to climb and push herself on the single and multi-pitch routes, Bri climbed a pile of pitches in the different sectors, often until dark. Love the motivation, Bri!
Jacob and I had a great time guiding in the area and are looking forward to getting back there, hopefully with these three motivated climbers…or maybe with you. See you next year for an unforgettable experience in a stunning natural setting.
Jesse de Montigny
Managing Director
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
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