Mount Victoria

Program Agenda

Day 1: We’ll meet at our Canmore classroom location (#100-50 Lincoln Park) at 11:00 a.m. to review the climb’s objectives and complete a gear check before travelling to Lake Louise. From there, we’ll begin our scenic approach to a high bivy site where we’ll spend the night perched beside the glacier and overlooking the turquoise waters of Lake Louise far below.

The approach takes approximately three hours, following a beautiful route past the Plain of Six Glaciers Tea House and along the historic Swiss Guides Trail. Our bivy site, situated around 2,400 metres, offers an unforgettable alpine setting where we’ll enjoy a hearty backcountry meal and prepare for the next day’s summit climb.

Day 2: This summit requires an early start and we will be aiming to leave the bivy site at first light.  From the bivy, we will quickly reach the toe of the glacier and ascend it to below the more technical portion of the climb. Crossing the bergschrund can often be challenging before we head up the steeper snow slopes leading to the rock band guarding the col between North Victoria and Mt Collier. Views of Mt Lefroy and the horizon are unmatched during sunrise. Depending on conditions we can either climb a short rock band or traverse around it until the snow ridge is regained. The Northeast Ridge leads us to the small, rocky summit. 

This is a challenging objective and guests should have prior intermediate mountaineering experience and a high level of fitness. You can expect to be out for a 10 –12-hour day on the summit day. 

Guides and Group Size
The maximum guide to guest ratio is 1:2. Our guides are enthusiastic and extremely talented. They hold certification from the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides and we are licensed to operate in the area by Parks Canada. The maximum group size is 4.

Transportation
Transportation while on the program is not included. We rely on guests’ personal vehicles to reach program locations. Paid parking is in effect at Lake Louise Lakeshore. If flying in we recommend you rent a car from Calgary Airport.

Park Passes

Please note that program venues may be within National Parks and/or Kananaskis Country. For programs where transportation is not provided by Yamnuska/Canadian Rockies Hiking by Yamnuska, guests will be required to purchase their own pass.

National Park passes are available both online at https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/voyage-travel/admission and in-person at National park gates and some information centres.

Kananaskis Country conservation passes are available online at https://www.alberta.ca/kananaskis-conservation-pass.aspx

Accommodation & Meals

On the trail you will be staying in modern, lightweight 3- and 2-person weather-proof tents.

All meals, snacks, and drinks are supplied from dinner on Day 1 to lunch on Day 2. For guests with dietary restrictions, we are able to modify the program food pack to meet your individual needs.  As food pricing and preparation for these diets is more costly, there is a surcharge.  Our kitchen staff will assess your restrictions to inform you if the diet can be accommodated and what surcharge would apply. Vegetarian meals will not be surcharged.

Accommodation in Canmore is not included. A variety of accommodation options exist in both Canmore and Banff, including campsites, hostels, all levels of hotels as well as condo-style accommodation with kitchens or suites.  We recommend that you book your own pre and post-trip accommodations well in advance as all levels of accommodations in the Bow Valley fill quickly.

Excess luggage can be left at your hotel or our office.

Equipment and Clothing

The equipment and clothing you bring to this course will play a large role in the quality of your experience. Read the following suggestions and lists carefully. If you have any questions or need clarification, don’t hesitate to call or email. 

Equipment 

Yamnuska provides group camping and climbing gear and the following personal technical gear. Please feel free to bring your own items if desired: 

• Crampons 
• Mountaineering ice axe 
• Climbing harness 
• Climbing helmet 
• Prusik cord, slings, carabiners 

We recommend you bring: 

• Mountaineering boots* (must be crampon compatible) 
• Multiday pack* (55–65 litres) 
• Daypack* (30-40 liters), (optional) 
• Sleeping bag* 
• Sleeping pad* 
• Water bottle (2 litres) 
• Sunglasses 
• Sunscreen, SPF lip balm 
• Camera 
• Headlamp (with fresh batteries) 
• Earplugs 
• Blister kit 
• First aid items (Our guides carry a first aid kit, but you may bring your own Band-Aids and anti-inflammatory medication if desired.) 
• Personal toiletries including hand sanitizer 
• Trekking pole (recommended) 

*These items are available for rent. Please advise us in advance. 

Clothing 

When mountaineering, it is important to be able to adjust to the changing conditions. We recommend bringing clothing that can be layered to achieve comfort as you change from periods of activity to periods of rest. Cotton clothing is not appropriate as it causes rapid heat loss when wet. 

We recommend you bring: 

• Long underwear top and bottoms (lightweight synthetic or wool) 
• Socks (synthetic/wool, at least two pairs) 
• Light synthetic shirt 
• Softshell pants and jacket 
• Midweight synthetic or down jacket 
• Heavyweight insulated jacket 
• Waterproof hardshell jacket with hood 
• Waterproof hardshell pants (should have a full-length side zip so they can be put on without taking off boots and crampons) 
• Gaiters (big enough to fit over large boots) 
• Waterproof mountaineering or ice climbing gloves (at least two pairs) 
• Warm hat that fits under a helmet 
• Sun hat 

• Alpha SV Jacket (Men’s & Women’s)
• Rush Jacket (Men’s & Women’s)
• Rush Bib Pant (Men’s & Women’s)
• Atom Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
• Atom SL Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
• Cerium Down Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
• Nuclei Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)

Additional gear info: 

Backpack:  It is possible to use just one multiday backpack (55-65 litres) if it is comfortable to wear while climbing. If bringing an additional day pack, this should be very light and compressible in order to fit inside the bigger pack on the approach hike. 

Sleeping bag: We recommend a three-season bag rated at approximately -7°C. A down bag will be lighter and more compressible for the weight than a synthetic bag. A compression stuff sack is recommended to reduce volume. 

Mountaineering boots: A good pair of boots is essential. They need to be warm and crampon compatible. Yamnuska uses Scarpa Mont Blanc boots. 

Crampons:  Mountaineering crampons should have anti-snow-balling plates and need to be compatible with your boots. We use the Petzl Vasak. 

Mountaineering ice-axe: Your ice axe should be 55-75 cm and should be equipped with an adze. Yamnuska provides the Petzl Summit Axe. 

Climbing harness:  Should be sized to fit over your cold-weather clothing. It is recommended to have a harness with a belay/rappel loop. 

Climbing helmet:  A comfortable, all-around climbing helmet that can fit over your winter hat. 

Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. Full payment is required at the time of booking.  We accept Visa, Mastercard, Canadian Cheques, Money Orders and Bank Drafts.  Credit card payments are easiest, especially for international travellers.

We ask that you review our detailed booking instructions and conditions.

Risk is an inherent part of all mountain activities. We strive to manage and reduce it however, it is impossible to totally eliminate. Learn more about our safety and risk management approach here.  Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the program. Please view our sample waiver copy.

The Simpson Group offers a wide range of travel insurance options including Trip Cancellation/Interruption, Travel Medical, and Personal Effect Loss for both Canadian and International Travelers. Other providers offer similar services and we encourage you to select an appropriate level of coverage. We highly recommend purchasing this insurance to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. The two basic types of insurance that most travellers need to consider are Medical and Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance.

Insurance Risk 
One of the ways to mitigate risk is by purchasing appropriate insurance. Simpson Group Insurance Services who are travel & health risk specialists, work with technical and high-risk insurance solutions both in medical and non-medical spheres.  We highly recommend that you review your insurance needs to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. It is wise to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident during your trip. Simpson Group have a team standing by to answer any of your questions.

Emergency Medical Evacuation
While there is typically no charge for search & rescue in the National and Provincial Parks for active pass holders, costs such as air & ground ambulance after the rescue are not covered by your park pass. The chance of a large bill associated with this risk is a real possibility.

For Canadians
A common myth is that healthcare across provinces is fully covered. There are many things which do not carry interprovincial agreements. Ambulance services, medical evacuation, and some services which one province charges more than another you’d be responsible to pay the difference.

For Internationals
A common myth is that healthcare in Canada is free. Although it is less expensive than US healthcare, charges for non-residents can still be very high. Proper medical health insurance is essential if you were to get injured. Most coverages exclude rock climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing, backcountry skiing and the like. Simpson Group can make sure all those risks are well covered.

Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance
We recognize that our guests’ schedules may change for many reasons, business, family, flight delays, injuries, and other unplanned events.  For these eventualities, Trip Cancellation/Interruption insurance is a great way to protect your investment. We can assure you that circumstances do arise that prevent guests from participating in trips or courses and trip cancellation & interruption insurance is a relatively easy way to manage your level of risk of unforeseen events.

For all your travel insurance requirements we recommend Simpson Group Insurance Services.  For more information and to purchase a plan, visit Simpson Group’s website.