One Month Summer Mountaineering Program

Itinerary

Day 1: Welcome, introductions, course agenda, and goals. Preparation for the first trip to Skaha Bluffs in Penticton. 

Rock Climbing 

This is a major part of the Semester. We will be working on all aspects of rock climbing over the next 8 days. We will then revisit rock work on the alpine rock section in the Bow Valley and the mountaineering segment to summit peaks in the Bugaboos. 

Days 2 – 9: Rock Skills in Skaha Bluffs, Penticton
The rock climbs in the Skaha Bluffs area provide a large variety of difficulties and styles which is ideal for the progression of this section. We will visit different crags each day to learn the skills of rock climbing from the ground up. In tandem with rock performance training and movement skills, will be comprehensive and detailed instruction on safety and belay systems including: ‘trad’ gear placements (use of nuts, camming devices, etc), anchor building, various belay systems, lead skills (sport and ‘trad’), self-rescue, companion rescue, and multi-pitch systems. 

Days 10 – 11: Two days off in Canmore
A well-earned rest and the chance to catch up on some personal maintenance. 

Days 12 – 14: Alpine Rock and Multi-Pitch Climb in Canmore
The Bow Valley is the perfect place to transition the rock climbing skills learned in Skaha, into the mountains. With the Bow Valley’s limestone walls as our classroom, we will teach you how to move as a team on 3rd and 4th class terrain, build solid anchors, and use the rope to protect each other on easy but exposed routes. We will also build on your rock climbing skills by completing a multipitch climbing route. The focus will be on climbing efficiency, route finding, and risk management. For this day, we will have extra guides join the group so we can put all these skills to use on a multipitch objective of your own. Maximum guide to guest ratio is 1:2 on the multipitch climb. 

Days 15 – 16: Two days off in Canmore 

Alpine Mountaineering on Rock, Snow, and Ice 

The final two sections of the program are dedicated to learning the skills associated with climbing glaciated peaks. You will learn how to route find and manage risk on glaciers, plus how to rescue yourself or your partner from a potential crevasse fall.  We will also demonstrate and teach you how to move with efficiency and security on rock, snow, and ice in two world-famous climbing areas: the Columbia Icefields and the Bugaboos. 

Days 17- 22: General Mountaineering Skills and Alpine Ice at the Columbia Icefields
The 11,000-foot peaks of the Columbia Icefields rise abruptly next to the Banff-Jasper Parkway. Heavy glaciation means alpine ice climbing training opportunities are a short distance from camp. We will begin with general mountaineering skills: footwork on snow and ice, ice axe use, self-arrest, understanding glacier morphology, and rope use for glacier travel. After building a solid foundation we will introduce steeper alpine ice climbing techniques: leading steeper multi-pitch alpine ice and snow, technical descents on snow and ice and more advanced crevasse rescue systems. 

At the end of this section a second guide will join us, and in groups of 4, with 1 guide per 3 students, we will help you apply your new skills to climb one of the peaks in the area. Mt Athabasca, A2, and Boundary Peak are all potential objectives for this day. 

Days 23 – 24: Two days off in Canmore 

Days 25 – 29: General Mountaineering Skills and Alpine Rock in the Bugaboos
The ‘Bugs’ are one of North America’s most famous climbing areas. This world-renowned climbers’ paradise with its awesome granite spires, beautiful glaciers, and lush, green valleys attracts alpinists from around the world. We can’t imagine a better place in which to apply your new skills. Additionally, we will continue to build on more advanced skills to be successful on higher-end mountaineering and alpine rock routes. You will work in teams of three (one guide per two students) all week. This will allow you to have more instructor time while working on skills and will let you tackle more technical objectives on summit days.   

From our base at Applebee Campground, we can easily reach the perfect training areas to be found on the Bugaboo Glacier and in the Crescent Spires each day. We will be working on general snow and glacier techniques as we approach rock spires where we will be applying our rock climbing skills to alpine situations. Alpine rock is an important facet of mountaineering that requires an ability to quickly choose the appropriate technique for every situation to maximize both safety and speed. Here we build on your peer short roping skills, natural belays, and other important mountaineering techniques. 

As the week progresses you will start to apply all your skills to attempt some of the incredible objectives the Bugaboos has to offer. Time will be split between student led routes and guided routes to maximise each student’s progression. No matter what the style, your guide will be coaching and teaching throughout the day. Some objectives that have been completed in the past are Lions Way, Houndstooth, Eastpost Spire and West Ridge of Pigeon Spire- the world’s best 5.4! 

Day 30: The final debrief day in Canmore culminating in a graduation celebration.  

Curriculum 

Alpine Trekking: Travel in big mountain terrain breeds great mountain skills. Route finding and scrambling skills lead directly into more advanced mountaineering. 

Rock climbing: The rock climbing section covers a broad spectrum of climbing techniques. We start with the introductory skills of site safety, risk assessment, rope management, belaying, and movement on rock, and then progress as skills and confidence build. Over the duration of this section, we will cover top-roped climbing, lead climbing, sport & trad climbing, multi-pitch climbing, alpine scrambling, and rock rescue. This is a comprehensive skills section that moves at the pace of the individual climber and builds on both beginner and intermediate skills alike. Most students finish leading at 5.7 and above. 

Alpine Rock Climbing: You will learn how to use short roping techniques as well as how to use improvised belay techniques to learn how to move quickly over rocky alpine terrain. You will also learn how to apply the rock skills learnt in the previous week to a multi pitch setting.  

Mountaineering: Training takes place in some of the most remarkable terrain in the world. We teach you how to climb on snow, ice, and alpine rock plus instruct you in glacier travel, crevasse rescue, route finding, and navigation. Expect to be leading on peaks such as Mt. Athabasca. 

Mountain Navigation: Navigation and route finding in challenging terrain and during whiteouts will be covered during this section. You will be practicing these skills using both map and compass as well as electronic navigation and GPS. 

Trip Logistics: Planning a trip involves several crucial aspects that need careful consideration to ensure the trip runs smoothly. Trip logistics includes trip planning, menus and food planning, gear and emergency response. 

Leadership: Whether you’re out with friends or working as a guide, your ability to lead is an essential part of your mountaineering success and safety. Leadership development is an integral part of the program and is included in every section. These skills include group decision-making, risk management and risk communication. 

Meeting Time and Place

The program begins at the Yamnuska classroom at #100, 50 Lincoln Park, Canmore, at 10.00 am on the first day. Map

Course Location

The course is based in Canmore, Alberta in the Front Range of the Rocky Mountains just minutes from Banff National Park. Section locations will vary according to conditions. Expect to be rock climbing in the Bow Valley near Canmore and mountaineering in British Columbia’s Bugaboos and at the Columbia Icefields. 

We are in a continental or inland climate that varies greatly in temperatures and weather. During this program, you can expect to encounter spring snowfalls with sub-zero temperatures and hot summer temperatures in the high 20’s (Celsius). You should be prepared for every type of mountain weather condition. 

Instructors and Group Size

Our instructors are professional guides who are certified by the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides and by other member countries of the International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations. 

The instructor ratio (number of instructors to students) has a significant impact on the quality of the program. Ratios are based upon the difficulty and hazard associated with the terrain. This means that more demanding terrain, such as that in the Bugaboos, requires a lower ratio, typically 1:2. We will be using a maximum ratio of 1:6 on all instructional days (except for the Bugaboos trip) and a lower ratio of 1:3 on the mountaineering section summit day and 1:2 on the alpine rock summit day.  

There will be a maximum of 12 students with a minimum of 4. An alternate program itinerary or pricing may be offered if we do not meet the minimum numbers for this program. 

Transportation

During the program, all field transportation is supplied. The group has a passenger van that is used to reach program areas. During evenings and on free days, transportation is not supplied.

Park Passes

Please note that venues may be within National Parks and/or Kananaskis Country. For programs where transportation is not provided by Yamnuska/Canadian Rockies Hiking by Yamnuska, guests will be required to purchase their own pass.

National Park passes are available both online at https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/voyage-travel/admission and in-person at National park gates and some information centres.

Kananaskis Country conservation passes are available online at https://www.alberta.ca/kananaskis-conservation-pass.aspx

Accommodation and Meals

All accommodation costs and meals while in the backcountry are included in the course price. 

When in Canmore the group will be responsible for their own accommodation. This allows us to offer this program at a discounted price, as there is a wide range of accommodation options in town. 

During training sections, the group will be based in a range of accommodations that will include wilderness camping, car camping, and mountain huts. 

Since this program is about developing well-rounded mountain skills, you will be involved in menu planning, food packing, and food preparation for out-trips. During training, you and the other course members will be responsible for cooking for the group. The food supplied will be healthy and nutritious with an emphasis on simplicity. Do not expect a lavish menu, but also do not expect to go hungry, you will eat well. 

Meals while in Canmore are not included. There are many excellent restaurants in town, many within walking distance of our office and most hotels. 

PLEASE NOTE:  For guests with dietary restrictions, we can modify the program food pack to meet your individual needs. As food pricing and preparation for these diets is more costly, there is a surcharge. Our kitchen staff will assess your restrictions to inform you if the diet can be accommodated and what surcharge would apply. 

Equipment and Clothing

All group camping and all technical gear are supplied with the exception of rock shoes and mountaineering boots. Reasonably priced boot rentals can be arranged during the course.  You will need to bring your own outdoor clothing and footwear, backpack, sleeping bag, and sleeping pad. Download Gear List

There are several outdoor stores in the area from which you can buy gear and clothing during the Semester.

Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. A deposit of  35% is required at the time of booking. The final payment is due eight weeks before the start of the course.

Detailed booking instructions and conditions.

Before applying for the Summer Semester you need to open and read the Semester Application Form and Booking and Cancellation Policies. This outlines the payment and enrollment process. You will need to download this form, complete it, and return it to us (mail or fax), even if you book online or by phone.

You will also need to complete the following forms:
Click here for the Personal Experience Form
Click here for the Medical Form

Risk is an inherent part of all mountain activities. We strive to manage and reduce it however, it is impossible to totally eliminate. Learn more about our safety and risk management approach here.  Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the program. Please view our sample waiver copy.

The Simpson Group offers a wide range of travel insurance options including Trip Cancellation/Interruption, Travel Medical, and Personal Effect Loss for both Canadian and International Travelers. Other providers offer similar services and we encourage you to select an appropriate level of coverage. We highly recommend purchasing this insurance to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. The two basic types of insurance that most travellers need to consider are Medical and Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance.

Insurance Risk 
One of the ways to mitigate risk is by purchasing appropriate insurance. Simpson Group Insurance Services who are travel & health risk specialists, work with technical and high-risk insurance solutions both in medical and non-medical spheres.  We highly recommend that you review your insurance needs to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. It is wise to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident during your trip. Simpson Group have a team standing by to answer any of your questions.

Emergency Medical Evacuation
While there is typically no charge for search & rescue in the National and Provincial Parks for active pass holders, costs such as air & ground ambulance after the rescue are not covered by your park pass. The chance of a large bill associated with this risk is a real possibility.

For Canadians
A common myth is that healthcare across provinces is fully covered. There are many things which do not carry interprovincial agreements. Ambulance services, medical evacuation, and some services which one province charges more than another you’d be responsible to pay the difference.

For Internationals
A common myth is that healthcare in Canada is free. Although it is less expensive than US healthcare, charges for non-residents can still be very high. Proper medical health insurance is essential if you were to get injured. Most coverages exclude rock climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing, backcountry skiing and the like. Simpson Group can make sure all those risks are well covered.

Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance
We recognize that our guests’ schedules may change for many reasons, business, family, flight delays, injuries, and other unplanned events.  For these eventualities, Trip Cancellation/Interruption insurance is a great way to protect your investment. We can assure you that circumstances do arise that prevent guests from participating in trips or courses and trip cancellation & interruption insurance is a relatively easy way to manage your level of risk of unforeseen events.

For all your travel insurance requirements we recommend Simpson Group Insurance Services.  For more information and to purchase a plan, visit Simpson Group’s website.