Climb Mount Assiniboine – The Matterhorn of the Canadian Rockies
Mount Assiniboine is one of the most iconic peaks in the Canadian Rockies, often compared to the Matterhorn for its dramatic pyramid shape. Rising high above Lake Magog, its remote setting and towering presence make it one of the premier mountain climbing destinations in Canada.
Located about 30 km southwest of Canmore, Mount Assiniboine sits on the border between Banff National Park and Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park. At 11,876 feet (3,618 m), it stands as the southernmost of the major Canadian Rockies summits. First climbed in 1901, this legendary mountain continues to inspire climbers from around the world with its beauty, history, and truly wild alpine setting.
Joining a guided Mount Assiniboine climb with Yamnuska Mountain Adventures is an unforgettable experience. With our certified guides, you’ll take on one of the Rockies’ most famous peaks with confidence. This trip overview outlines what to expect from the climb—once you’re ready, our team will take care of every detail.
The Peak
Mount Assiniboine is a serious and often difficult mountain to climb. It is frequently underestimated. There is substantial exposure and rockfall hazard. In dry conditions, it is technically straightforward. More likely though, it will be snowed or iced up and the climbing will be very challenging. This is not a peak for beginner mountaineers or alpine climbers.
The most popular route on the 11,867ft. (3618m) the mountain is the North Ridge. This 3,000ft. ridge is steep and exposed without being too technically difficult. Initially, you will move with the guide up a series of gullies and climb a rock band before reaching the ridge crest which is followed to the ‘Red Band’. Once there you will be climbing fifth class rock for several hundred feet to the corniced summit. The view from the summit is truly incredible.
Climbing time is anywhere from 12 to 15 hours return from the Hind Hut.
Weather Note: Given its elevation and position on the divide, Mt Assiniboine is subject to lightning storms, snow, high winds, poor visibility, and squalls. Snow can fall mid-summer and the mountain can be out of condition for days or weeks at a time. If the conditions are not ideal for a summit attempt, we can opt to use the time to climb local rock or alpine objectives. Please see additional information under our logistics tab.
Price
The following package costs include guide fees, hut fees, out-trip meals, and helicopter flights. Should it be necessary to drive to Mt. Shark Helipad from Canmore an extra charge may apply if you do not have your own vehicle. For guests with dietary restrictions, we are able to modify the program food pack to meet your individual needs. As food pricing and preparation for these diets is more costly, there will be a surcharge. Please inquire into the cost. For more complex diets our kitchen staff will assess the restrictions to inform you if the diet can be accommodated and what surcharge would apply. Vegetarian meals will not be surcharged. Please let us know well in advance if you have any dietary restrictions.
A federal 5% Goods & Services (GST) is not included. It is possible to hike out and not use the helicopter, which will reduce the price accordingly should you choose this option.
- Three-day for one person: $4720.00 Friday to Sunday, Wednesday to Friday.
- Four-day for one person: $5877.00 Sunday to Wednesday.
- Five-day for one person: $6986.00 Wednesday to Sunday.
Trip Cancellation Insurance is available through the Simpson Group.
Guides and Guide Ratios
Our guides are certified by the Association of Canadian Mountain Guide. We operate within the ‘terrain guidelines’ of the ACMG. The lead guide will be an internationally qualified (UIAGM/ACMG) mountain guide. Other guides (if required for more climbers) will be at least qualified assistant guides (ACMG). It is vastly preferable to have a one-on-one guide ratio.
Accommodation and Food
We climb from the Hind Hut located at the very base of Mt. Assiniboine’s North Ridge at an elevation of 8,700 ft. The hut is a basic sheet metal mountain shelter equipped with sleeping platforms, a stove, and ‘foamies’. We bring food and sleeping bags. Hut fees and out-trip meals are included in our price. Mountain meals are made from lightweight ingredients. FFor guests with dietary restrictions, we are able to modify the program food pack to meet your individual needs. As food pricing and preparation for these diets is more costly, there is a surcharge. Our kitchen staff will assess your restrictions to inform you if the diet can be accommodated and what surcharge would apply. Vegetarian meals will not be surcharged.
Afterward, you may like to stay on and enjoy the great hiking in the Assiniboine Meadows area. This is a terrific area to enjoy with family and friends. Camping is available at the Lake Magog campground or, if you book very far in advance, stay at the world-famous Mount Assiniboine Lodge. Accommodation in Canmore is not included. A variety of accommodation options exist in both Canmore and Banff, including campsites, hostels, all levels of hotels as well as condo-style accommodation with kitchens or suites. We recommend that you book your own pre and post-trip accommodations well in advance as all levels of accommodations in the Bow Valley fill quickly.
Getting to Canmore and Mount Assiniboine
Canmore is the nearest town to the helicopter base and hiking staging points for Mt Assiniboine. It is 100km west of Calgary on the Trans Canada Highway.
Frequent shuttles connect Calgary International Airport and Canmore.
To get to Mount Assiniboine it is more cost-effective to fly to Assiniboine Meadows at the base of the peak. Wednesdays, Fridays, and Sundays (Mondays on holiday weekends) a helicopter shuttle service operate from Canmore and Shark Mountain (a 45-minute drive S.W. of Canmore towards the peak). Please note that there may be an extra charge for transport to Shark Mountain if required. The cost of the helicopter shuttle is included in our charge.
Once at Assiniboine Meadows, it is a further 4 hours hike and scramble to reach the Hind Hut, our base for the summit climb.
Park Passes
Please note that program venues may be within National Parks and/or Kananaskis Country. For programs where transportation is not provided by Yamnuska/Canadian Rockies Hiking by Yamnuska, guests will be required to purchase their own pass.
National Park passes are available both online at https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/voyage-travel/admission and in-person at National park gates and some information centres.
Kananaskis Country conservation passes are available online at https://www.alberta.ca/kananaskis-conservation-pass.aspx
What if Assiniboine is out of condition?
Mount Assiniboine is very weather prone and may be completely out of condition at any time in the summer for days or weeks at a time. When this happens it is possible to climb on other peaks in the Rockies that remain in condition (lower rock peaks or snow and ice routes) so we cannot guarantee a summit attempt of Mt. Assiniboine. In the event of Mt. Assiniboine being clearly out of condition, we will organize an alternate climbing program for you and will use the helicopter fees included in the package to defray any new expenses with the balance being refunded to you. Once the trip and guide are confirmed, unfortunately, we cannot provide a refund if Mt Assiniboine is unclimbable but we will develop another excellent alternative given our vast experience in the Canadian Rockies.
Clothing and Gear Lists
Group safety & technical gear (e.g. ropes & rack) is included in the fee. You will need to supply personal clothing and gear (e.g. ice axe, crampons, helmet & harness). Some of these items can be rented and the cost included in your package price.
Yamnuska has a full range of climbing and camping gear for rent.
CLOTHING LIST
We suggest layers of light, easily carried clothing that allows for fast and easy adjustment to best suit fast changing temperature conditions. We discourage cotton clothing as it causes rapid heat loss when wet. Feel free to call us if you have any questions about what to bring. This list covers items needed for all likely conditions during the mountaineering season. Your guide will go through your clothing and gear with you prior to the climb.
You will need to bring:
- LONG UNDERWEAR, top, and bottom, polypro, wool, Capilene, or fleece.
- WOOL/BLEND SOCKS (extra pairs).
- Warm LONG PANTS to climb in. These should be wool/nylon blend knickers, fleece pants, nylon exercise pants with light long johns or wool trousers.
- Light SHIRT or T-SHIRT.
- Wool or fleece LONG SLEEVE SHIRT with a collar.
- FLEECE SWEATER (medium weight).
- Heavyweight fleece or insulated JACKET.
- Waterproof OUTER JACKET with hood (Gore-Tex).
- Waterproof OUTER PANTS, preferably with side zips on legs.
- Waterproof knee-length GAITERS that will fit over large boots.
- Waterproof mountaineering GLOVES or wool/fleece mitts /gloves plus waterproof over mitts.
- WARM HAT (that covers ears).
- SUNHAT with a wide brim.
- NECK TUBE.
Guests registered in Yamnuska programs (4 days or less) can borrow outerwear from the Arc’teryx store in Banff at no cost. Available items include jackets, insulated layers, and bib pants (men’s & women’s sizes). Simply show proof of enrollment at the store.
-
Alpha SV Jacket (Men’s & Women’s)
-
Rush Jacket (Men’s & Women’s)
-
Rush Bib Pant (Men’s & Women’s)
-
Atom Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
-
Atom SL Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
-
Cerium Down Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
-
Nuclei Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
EQUIPMENT LIST
You will need to bring: (Items in blue are available to rent from Yamnuska)
- SLEEPING BAG. In summer the huts don’t get too cold so don’t bring a winter bag. We suggest a bag rated down to 0 degrees Celsius (32 F.) but if your bag doesn’t quite get down that far don’t worry too much. Make sure you bring a stuff sac that will reduce your bag to its minimum size (i.e. one with compression straps) so you don’t use up all the room in your pack.
- BACKPACK. Big enough to fit extra clothing, sleeping bag, share of food, and cooking gear. Internal frame packs are most comfortable.
- MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS. Ideally, these should be proper leather mountaineering boots with either a semi-rigid or a rigid sole. It is possible to buy boots such as the La Sportiva “Trango” which is designed specifically for alpine rock and which can take a crampon. We suggest bringing a pair of comfortably fitting rock shoes as well. They will increase enjoyment on more technical rock. As always the most important feature of a mountaineering boot is comfort. Different brands seem to suit different feet. If buying try a few different pairs and if they are not comfortable don’t buy them. There are many good brands. They include Asolo, Kayland, Koflach, la Sportiva, and Scarpa.
- DAYPACK. Optional but good idea if the backpack is too unwieldy for advanced climbs. Large enough to carry spare clothing, lunch, water, and climbing gear.
- ICE AXE. A regular glacier axe minimum 55cm length.
- CRAMPONS. Must fit your boots.
- HARNESS. Sit harness preferred.
- HELMET.
- SUNGLASSES with good UV protection, we suggest ‘glacier glasses’.
- Extra Strength SUN CREAM.
- Lip Cream.
- HEADLAMP with fresh batteries.
- WATERBOTTLE (1L minimum).
- POCKET KNIFE.
- BLISTER KIT (‘moleskin’, ‘Second Skin’)
- FIRST-AID Items (band-aids, ibuprofen & aspirin / Tylenol are enough as guides have a kit also).
- CAMERA and spare film.
- TREKKING POLE (S)
- EARPLUGS for dorm sleeping.
OPTIONAL ITEMS
We supply the following items, but if you have your own, please feel free to bring along – Your rack, gear sling, nut pick, belay device, prusik slings, locking biners, your guide will go through this with you to decide exactly which items you should carry on the climb.
Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. We require a deposit of 35% of the total program cost with the balance due 8 weeks before the program start date. Please read the booking conditions and cancellation penalties carefully before booking.
We ask that you familiarize yourself with our detailed booking instructions and conditions.
Risk is an inherent part of all mountain activities. We strive to manage and reduce it however, it is impossible to totally eliminate. Learn more about our safety and risk management approach here. Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the program. Please view our sample waiver copy.
Please feel free to contact us to discuss this climb.
If you need any rental gear please let us know early to ensure its availability.
We highly recommend the Simpson Group cancellation/trip interruption insurance.
The Simpson Group offers a wide range of travel insurance options including Trip Cancellation/Interruption, Travel Medical, and Personal Effect Loss for both Canadian and International Travelers. Other providers offer similar services and we encourage you to select an appropriate level of coverage. We highly recommend purchasing this insurance to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. The two basic types of insurance that most travellers need to consider are Medical and Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance.
Insurance Risk
One of the ways to mitigate risk is by purchasing appropriate insurance. Simpson Group Insurance Services who are travel & health risk specialists, work with technical and high-risk insurance solutions both in medical and non-medical spheres. We highly recommend that you review your insurance needs to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. It is wise to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident during your trip. Simpson Group have a team standing by to answer any of your questions.
Emergency Medical Evacuation
While there is typically no charge for search & rescue in the National and Provincial Parks for active pass holders, costs such as air & ground ambulance after the rescue are not covered by your park pass. The chance of a large bill associated with this risk is a real possibility.
For Canadians
A common myth is that healthcare across provinces is fully covered. There are many things which do not carry interprovincial agreements. Ambulance services, medical evacuation, and some services which one province charges more than another you’d be responsible to pay the difference.
For Internationals
A common myth is that healthcare in Canada is free. Although it is less expensive than US healthcare, charges for non-residents can still be very high. Proper medical health insurance is essential if you were to get injured. Most coverages exclude rock climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing, backcountry skiing and the like. Simpson Group can make sure all those risks are well covered.
Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance
We recognize that our guests’ schedules may change for many reasons, business, family, flight delays, injuries, and other unplanned events. For these eventualities, Trip Cancellation/Interruption insurance is a great way to protect your investment. We can assure you that circumstances do arise that prevent guests from participating in trips or courses and trip cancellation & interruption insurance is a relatively easy way to manage your level of risk of unforeseen events.
For all your travel insurance requirements we recommend Simpson Group Insurance Services. For more information and to purchase a plan, visit Simpson Group’s website.
PRICE:
See pricing in the itinerary.
Cancellation Insurance is available through the Simpson Group.
Please note you will be required to sign the Yamnuska Release of Liability, and Waiver of Claims prior to commencing the program. Please review the sample waiver prior to booking and call us with any questions.
Is it for you?
Mt. Assiniboine is not a climb for beginners. We require that you have recent alpine-style mountaineering experience (or extensive multi-pitch rock experience) beforehand and you will need to complete our experience questionnaire upon booking. When making your booking we can advise you as to the feasibility of your attempting this peak.
This is one of the most expensive objectives in the Rockies. If you have any doubts as to the suitability of this objective then it may be wise to take a guide for another climb first. We have several excellent options if Mt Assiniboine is beyond your price or ability range.
Time Needed
The minimum time it will take to climb Mt Assiniboine is three days. One day to fly to Assiniboine Meadows and to climb to the Hind Hut, the next day for the ascent, and the final day to descend to the Meadows from where you can fly or walk out. The problem with such a short time is that the weather may be bad on your climbing day leaving you with no spare days. We suggest you take a guide for at least four if not five days so as to allow extra time for the ascent and variable weather. In the event of being able to do the climb on the first available day then there are several other peaks in the area you can climb as well.
Season
Mount Assiniboine can be climbed anytime from June through September but remember that conditions may prevent climbing on the peak at any time in those months. The best time seems to be from mid-July to late August. In some years heavy spring snows may result in the peak being a snow climb through most of the summer. Summer snowstorms can put the peak ‘out of condition’ at any time. We must emphasize that bad weather and conditions are possible at any time and consequently we cannot guarantee a summit climb or easy conditions.