The Bugaboos are a legendary cluster of granite spires in the Purcell Mountains, renowned worldwide for their stunning alpine terrain and high-quality climbing routes. Bugaboo Spire itself is one of Canada’s most iconic peaks, first climbed in 1916 by the legendary Conrad Kain, and remains a treasured objective for alpine rock climbers. With two classic routes—the S.E. Ridge, Kain’s first ascent route, and the N.E. Ridge, considered one of the best lines on the continent—this peak offers challenging and unforgettable alpine climbing. Climbers tackling the 5.7 slab on the Gendarme will marvel at Kain’s ascent in hobnail boots!
The Bugaboos are surrounded by spectacular granite spires perfect for climbers of all levels. Snowpatch Spire offers technical challenges, the W. Ridge of Pigeon Spire provides one of BC’s most enjoyable technical scrambles, and the Crescent Spires deliver fun climbs for a range of abilities. The Howser Towers, including the famous Chouinard-Beckey route on the South Tower, dominate the skyline with world-class climbing.
Located in the Purcell Mountains, just a 3.5-hour drive from Canmore and Banff, the Bugaboos are served by an excellent alpine hut, with camping options in some of the most scenic locations in the Rockies. This area is perfect for private or custom Bugaboos rock climbing guide programs lasting 3–7 days and is an ideal destination for families with kids 10 years and older. From famous climbs to lesser-known routes, the Bugaboos offer high-quality alpine climbing adventures in one of Canada’s most breathtaking mountain ranges.
Choosing to climb in the Bugaboos is an exciting and incredible journey. Experiencing this climber’s paradise cannot be described appropriately in words. Depending on your time allowance and climbing level, we have 3 days or more day climbing itineraries that will not only meet your climbing objectives but also give you insight into the Bugaboos by one of our Bugaboos climbing guides. Everyone should climb in the Bugaboos! When you’re not climbing, the hiking is spectacular so bring along your family to enjoy this other beautiful side of the Bugaboos. We recommend the following routes and spires:
Climbing Routes & Maximum Guide Ratios
- Bugaboo Spire: This famous and spectacular spire defines the area. Climb the classic Kain Route (5.7) (1:2) or N.E. Ridge (5.8) (1:1). A Top 50 in North America!
- Snowpatch Spire: Once thought unclimbable has many technical rock routes including the S.E. Corner (v. long 5.7), S.W. Corner (classic 5.9), and the Krauss-McCarthy (5.8) (1:2).
- Pigeon Spire: 3114m. No matter what your climbing grade you have to do the W. Ridge which is one of the loveliest and most enjoyable climbs out there (5.4) (1:2). A Top 50 in North America!
- East Post: 2590m. Located just above the hut, the West Ridge is a fun scramble (great with the kids) or more challenging by the S.E. Ridge (5.6) (1:2).
- Donkey’s Ears: 2850m. A scramble up distinctive spires with an unlikely, airy finish (5.5) by the S.E. Ridge (1:2) or an enjoyable 6-pitch 5.7 climb by the S. Face (‘Ears Between’) (1:2).
- Crescent Spires: 2900m. A series of small spires behind the Donkey’s Ears with some classic ridge climbing and some very nice multi-pitch rock routes such as Lions Way (5.6) and the McTech Arete (5.10) (1:2).
- S. Howser Tower: c.3300m. W. Face Chouinard-Beckey line. This superb 22-pitch route is best done with one guide per guest and it usually takes two days with a bivvy. Surcharges apply to this climb for which you must be comfortable and speedy seconding 5.9 and the occasional 5.10 (1:1). A Top 50 in North America!
Costs:
Before proceeding, we must mention that we run a Bugaboos Granite 5-day guided climbing program each season. This offers the opportunity to climb on the Bugaboos Spires for the lowest per person daily cost.
When hiring a guide we quote you guide fees plus expenses. The guide fee is a daily rate, which varies according to the number of people per guide. Expenses you will incur include the cost of transportation for yourself and the guide to the Bugaboos, hut or camping fees, and meals (for the guide also). We can customize a package for you that includes guide fees, guide expenses, and any extras such as meals, accommodation, and rental gear.
To simplify matters we have combined basic costs to offer package prices. To these basic packages, we can also add extras such as meals, camping costs, and rental climbing gear.
Please note that a surcharge will apply to more technical peaks and those peaks requiring longer days. Please inquire with our staff about this when booking your trip.
These prices are based on a few different scenarios you may consider. Remember that we can adjust the program to suit your needs. These are total prices, not per person. GST is extra. Prices in Canadian Dollars.
| 1 Guest Pricing | 3-Day | 4-Day | 5-Day | 6-Day |
| Costs are total costs for the entire group (not per person) | ||||
| Guide Expenses & Camping | $2950.00 | $3963.00 | $4976.00 | $5989.00 |
| Guide Expenses & Hut (subject to availability) | $3034.00 | $4089.00 | $5144.00 | $6199.00 |
| Add Meal Package | $194.00 | $279.00 | $349.00 | $449.00 |
| Guide provides own transportation (meet at trailhead) | $310.00 | $310.00 | $310.00 | $310.00 |
| 2 Guest Pricing | 3-Day | 4-Day | 5-Day | 6-Day |
| Costs are total costs for the entire group (not per person) | ||||
| Guide Expenses & Camping | $3427.00 | $4505.00 | $5657.00 | $6809.00 |
| Guide Expenses & Hut (subject to availability) | $3479.00 | $4694.00 | $5909.00 | $7124.00 |
| Add Meal Package | $388.00 | $558.00 | $698.00 | $898.00 |
| Guide provides own transportation (meet at trailhead) | $310.00 | $310.00 | $310.00 | $310.00 |
Please note that a surcharge will apply to more technical peaks and those peaks requiring longer days. Please inquire with our staff about this when booking your trip.
Trip Cancellation Insurance is available through the Simpson Group.
Guides and Guide Ratios:
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures is licensed by BC Parks to operate in this area. Our Bugaboos Climbing Guides are certified by the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides whose ‘terrain guidelines’ we adhere to. Our ratios are outlined in the Climbing Routes section above. We do not exceed the stated guide to guest ratios as we believe this compromises safety and your overall experience.
As Canada’s premier mountain school and guiding organization, we have the best guides. Our staff training, risk management and customer service philosophies are unparalleled in our industry. We pride ourselves on being the most reputable mountain guiding company in the country.
Park Passes
Please note that program venues may be within National Parks and/or Kananaskis Country. For programs where transportation is not provided by Yamnuska/Canadian Rockies Hiking by Yamnuska, guests will be required to purchase their own pass.
National Park passes are available both online at https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/voyage-travel/admission and in-person at National park gates and some information centres.
Kananaskis Country conservation passes are available online at https://www.alberta.ca/kananaskis-conservation-pass.aspx
Group safety & technical gear (e.g. ropes & rack) is included in the guide fee. You will need to supply personal clothing and gear (e.g. ice axe, crampons, helmet & harness). Some of these items can be rented and the cost is included in your package price.
*Please Note: Chicken wire fencing is commonly placed around cars and held in place by wood and rocks. This is done to prevent wildlife from chewing on brake lines and wiring in the undercarriage of the car. Please ensure you bring chicken wire to prevent damage to your vehicle.
Yamnuska has a full range of climbing and camping gear for rent.
Guests registered in Yamnuska programs (4 days or less) can borrow outerwear from the Arc’teryx store in Banff at no cost. Available items include jackets, insulated layers, and bib pants (men’s & women’s sizes). Simply show proof of enrollment at the store.
-
Alpha SV Jacket (Men’s & Women’s)
-
Rush Jacket (Men’s & Women’s)
-
Rush Bib Pant (Men’s & Women’s)
-
Atom Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
-
Atom SL Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
-
Cerium Down Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
-
Nuclei Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
We will supply you with a quote that will include all expenses such as meals, accommodation, and rental gear when we know your requirements. Registration requires a deposit of one-third of the quote or, for trips of three days or less, full payment. All guests must fill in an application form and an experience questionnaire.
A balance of payment is required eight weeks before trip commencement. Should you cancel more than eight weeks in advance of the trip, a $105 cancellation fee will apply. Cancellation between six and eight weeks before trip commencement will mean a loss of your deposit. Cancellation less than six weeks before trip commencement will result in a loss of all payments made.
We ask that you familiarize yourself with ourdetailed booking instructions and conditions. Good weather in the Bugaboos cannot be guaranteed and we ask that you review our Mountain Conditions and Weather policy in the Booking Info link at the top right section of this page.
Risk is an inherent part of all mountain activities. We strive to manage and reduce it however, it is impossible to totally eliminate. Learn more about our safety and risk management approach here. Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the program. Please view our sample waiver copy.
If you need any rental gear please let us know early to ensure its availability.
The Simpson Group offers a wide range of travel insurance options including Trip Cancellation/Interruption, Travel Medical, and Personal Effect Loss for both Canadian and International Travelers. Other providers offer similar services and we encourage you to select an appropriate level of coverage. We highly recommend purchasing this insurance to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. The two basic types of insurance that most travellers need to consider are Medical and Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance.
Insurance Risk
One of the ways to mitigate risk is by purchasing appropriate insurance. Simpson Group Insurance Services who are travel & health risk specialists, work with technical and high-risk insurance solutions both in medical and non-medical spheres. We highly recommend that you review your insurance needs to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. It is wise to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident during your trip. Simpson Group have a team standing by to answer any of your questions.
Emergency Medical Evacuation
While there is typically no charge for search & rescue in the National and Provincial Parks for active pass holders, costs such as air & ground ambulance after the rescue are not covered by your park pass. The chance of a large bill associated with this risk is a real possibility.
For Canadians
A common myth is that healthcare across provinces is fully covered. There are many things which do not carry interprovincial agreements. Ambulance services, medical evacuation, and some services which one province charges more than another you’d be responsible to pay the difference.
For Internationals
A common myth is that healthcare in Canada is free. Although it is less expensive than US healthcare, charges for non-residents can still be very high. Proper medical health insurance is essential if you were to get injured. Most coverages exclude rock climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing, backcountry skiing and the like. Simpson Group can make sure all those risks are well covered.
Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance
We recognize that our guests’ schedules may change for many reasons, business, family, flight delays, injuries, and other unplanned events. For these eventualities, Trip Cancellation/Interruption insurance is a great way to protect your investment. We can assure you that circumstances do arise that prevent guests from participating in trips or courses and trip cancellation & interruption insurance is a relatively easy way to manage your level of risk of unforeseen events.
For all your travel insurance requirements we recommend Simpson Group Insurance Services. For more information and to purchase a plan, visit Simpson Group’s website.
Cancellation Insurance available through the Simpson Group.
Please note you will be required to sign the Yamnuska Release of Liability, and Waiver of Claims prior to commencing the program. Please review the sample waiver prior to booking and call us with any questions.
Time Needed
You will need a minimum of 2 days though we would strongly recommend at least 3. Of this time the 1st day will be taken in getting established in the Bugaboos, either at the Conrad Kain Hut or at the Appleby Dome Campground. It can be possible to do a climb of either Bugaboo Spire or Snowpatch and hike out the same day though we advise against it as any delay on the climb will make this very difficult to achieve.
We suggest at least 3 days. Day 1 for access, Day 2 for a bigger climb, Day 3 for a smaller climb and leave the area. The more time you have the more climbing you’ll get done.
Climbing Season
Depending upon the vagaries of seasonal snow conditions it is usually possible to climb in the Bugaboos from late June until early September by when late summer snowfalls have often made technical climbs cold and icy. The optimum time is from early July to mid-August. In dry years the Bugaboo – Snowpatch Col, the easiest access route to Bugaboo Spire, can be threatened by rockfall by early August. When this happens it can limit which climbs we can do.