At 3,612m (11,851 ft) Mt Forbes is the 5th highest peak in Alberta and is the highest peak completely in Banff National Park. With its remote position on the continental divide, Mt Forbes is a true alpine climbing experience. For budding mountaineers and aspiring alpinists, this is a perfect opportunity to develop your Alpine climbing skills and climb this great summit.
The most popular route on the peak is the West Ridge. From the bivy site, we will access the West Ridge via the Rosita Couloir or up the North Glacier. From there we will cross a bergschrund and access the Northwest Face to reach a col on the West Ridge where we will follow the Ridgeline to gain the summit. We will descend the way we went up.
Climbing time is anywhere from 12 to 15 hours return from the bivy site.
Weather and Conditions Note:
Like any alpine region, this area is subject to extreme weather conditions. While we will strive to use the noted sites and climbs, weather and conditions will dictate our site selection.
Day 1: We will meet at our classroom in Canmore at 6:30 am. After introductions, we will discuss trip objectives, review conditions, and complete an extensive equipment check. From there we can leave immediately for the helipad in Golden. Once we have arrived at our bivy site we will set up camp and get a good rest before our summit day.
Day 2: Summit day! With an alpine start, we will approach the West Ridge of Mt Forbes. The route will involve steep snow climbing of up to 40 degrees and occasional steps of easy rock scrambling. This will be done with the use of an ice axe and crampons. Reaching this rarely visited summit and enjoying the endless views in all directions will be a great reward.
Day 3: Today we’ll aim to head out at first light and tick off one of many other objectives in the morning if time permits. The location will be based on conditions on that day. Possible objectives include Mons Peak, Division Peak, or Mount Rosita to name a few. From our objective, we’ll be able to walk back to our bivy before catching our return flight back to Golden.
Instructors and Group Size
The maximum guide to guest ratio on this trip will be 1:2. Our guides are certified by the internationally recognized Association of Canadian Mountain Guides or one of the other international member associations. They are also licensed to operate in the area by Parks Canada.
Program Logistics
We will meet the group at 6:30 AM on the first day here at our classroom in Canmore (Map). Please come prepared with all your personal gear and clothing but leave enough room in your pack for some additional group gear and food as well.
Transportation
Participants are responsible for their own transport to Canmore which is a 1-hour (100km) drive west of Calgary.
We rely on guests’ personal vehicles to reach program locations. If you are flying here for the program, we recommend flying to Calgary International Airport and renting a car.
The costs for the helicopter on this program account for travel to and from the location purchased with the trip. When extra time is needed or delays occur with the helicopter for weather, environmental factors or any other unforeseen circumstances that are out of our control extra costs may be incurred. In this event, the extra costs will be evenly distributed to all participants enrolled in the program.
Park Passes
Please note that program venues may be within National Parks and/or Kananaskis Country. For programs where transportation is not provided by Yamnuska/Canadian Rockies Hiking by Yamnuska, guests will be required to purchase their own pass.
National Park passes are available both online at https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/voyage-travel/admission and in-person at National park gates and some information centres.
Kananaskis Country conservation passes are available online at https://www.alberta.ca/kananaskis-conservation-pass.aspx
Accommodation and Meals
On the trail, you will be staying in modern, lightweight 2 and 3-person weather-proof tents. We will be setting up communal camps each night and cooking over camp stoves.
On the trail, you will be staying in modern, lightweight 2 and 3-person weather-proof tents. We will be setting up communal camps each night and cooking over camp stoves.
Accommodation in Canmore is not included. A variety of accommodation options exist in both Canmore and Banff, including campsites, hostels, all levels of hotels as well as condo-style accommodation with kitchens or suites. We recommend that you book your own pre and post-trip accommodations well in advance as all levels of accommodations in the Bow Valley fill quickly.
Equipment and Clothing
The equipment and clothing you bring to this trip will play a large role in the quality of your experience. Read the following suggestions and lists carefully. If you have any questions or need clarification, don’t hesitate to call or email.
You will be able to leave excess gear in Canmore while on the trip.
Equipment
- Crampons*
- Mountaineering ice axe*
- Technical ice climbing tool*
- Climbing harness*
- Climbing helmet*
- Ice screw
- Belay device
- Prusik cord, sling, carabiners
- Mountain boots* (must be crampon compatible)
- Daypack (30-40 litres)
- Sleeping bag*
- Sleeping pad*
- Water bottle (1-2 litres)
- Sunglasses
- Sunscreen, SPF lip balm
- Camera
- Compass
- Headlamp (with fresh batteries)
- Earplugs
- Pocket knife
- Blister kit
- First aid items (Our guides carry a first aid kit, but you may bring your own Band-Aids and anti-inflammatory medication if desired.)
- Personal toiletries including hand sanitizer
- Lighter
- Trekking pole (recommended)
*These items are available for rent. Please advise us in advance.
Clothing
When mountaineering, it is important to be able to adjust to the changing conditions. We recommend bringing clothing that can be layered to achieve comfort as you change from periods of activity to periods of rest. Cotton clothing is not appropriate as it causes rapid heat loss when wet.
We recommend you bring:
- Long underwear top and bottoms (light weight synthetic or wool)
- Socks (synthetic/wool, at least two pairs)
- Light synthetic shirt
- Softshell pants and jacket
- Midweight synthetic or down jacket
- Parka
- Waterproof Hardshell jacket with hood
- Waterproof Hardshell pants (should have a full-length side zip so they can be put on without taking off boots and crampons)
- Gaiters (big enough to fit over large boots)
- Waterproof mountaineering or ice climbing gloves (at least two pairs)
- Lightweight synthetic gloves
- Warm hat that fits under a helmet
- Sun hat
- Face mask
- Running shoes or sandals
Additional gear info:
Backpack: It is possible to use just one 40L backpack if it is comfortable enough to wear while climbing. If bringing an additional day pack, this should be very light and compressible in order to fit inside the bigger pack on the approach hike.
Sleeping bag: We recommend a three-season bag rated at approximately -9 Celsius. A down bag will be lighter and more compressible for the weight than a synthetic bag. A compression stuff sack is recommended to reduce volume.
Mountain boots: A good pair of mountain boots are essential. They need to be warm and crampon compatible. You are welcome to try the Scarpa Mont Blanc boots that Yamnuska rents.
Crampons: Mountaineering crampons should have anti-snow-balling plates and need to be compatible with your boots. We use the Petzl Vasak.
Mountaineering ice-axe: Your ice axe should be 55-65 cm and should be equipped with an adze. Yamnuska provides the Petzl Summit Axe.
Technical ice climbing tool: It is important to have a tool with a curved hand grip at the bottom. Yamnuska uses the Petzl Quark.
Climbing harness: Should be sized to fit over your cold-weather clothing. It is recommended to have a harness with a belay/rappel loop.
Helmet: A comfortable, all-around climbing helmet that can fit over your winter hat.
Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. A deposit of 35% is required at the time of booking. The final payment is due eight weeks before the start of the trip.
We ask that you familiarize yourself with our detailed booking instructions and conditions.
Risk is an inherent part of all mountain activities. We strive to manage and reduce it however, it is impossible to totally eliminate. Learn more about our safety and risk management approach here. Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the program. Please view our sample waiver copy.
The Simpson Group offers a wide range of travel insurance options including Trip Cancellation/Interruption, Travel Medical, and Personal Effect Loss for both Canadian and International Travelers. Other providers offer similar services and we encourage you to select an appropriate level of coverage. We highly recommend purchasing this insurance to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. The two basic types of insurance that most travellers need to consider are Medical and Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance.
Insurance Risk
One of the ways to mitigate risk is by purchasing appropriate insurance. Simpson Group Insurance Services who are travel & health risk specialists, work with technical and high-risk insurance solutions both in medical and non-medical spheres. We highly recommend that you review your insurance needs to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. It is wise to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident during your trip. Simpson Group have a team standing by to answer any of your questions.
Emergency Medical Evacuation
While there is typically no charge for search & rescue in the National and Provincial Parks for active pass holders, costs such as air & ground ambulance after the rescue are not covered by your park pass. The chance of a large bill associated with this risk is a real possibility.
For Canadians
A common myth is that healthcare across provinces is fully covered. There are many things which do not carry interprovincial agreements. Ambulance services, medical evacuation, and some services which one province charges more than another you’d be responsible to pay the difference.
For Internationals
A common myth is that healthcare in Canada is free. Although it is less expensive than US healthcare, charges for non-residents can still be very high. Proper medical health insurance is essential if you were to get injured. Most coverages exclude rock climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing, backcountry skiing and the like. Simpson Group can make sure all those risks are well covered.
Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance
We recognize that our guests’ schedules may change for many reasons, business, family, flight delays, injuries, and other unplanned events. For these eventualities, Trip Cancellation/Interruption insurance is a great way to protect your investment. We can assure you that circumstances do arise that prevent guests from participating in trips or courses and trip cancellation & interruption insurance is a relatively easy way to manage your level of risk of unforeseen events.
For all your travel insurance requirements we recommend Simpson Group Insurance Services. For more information and to purchase a plan, visit Simpson Group’s website.
Private guiding options are available.
Departures can be set up on a private basis for individuals, families, or groups. Please contact us if you would like to arrange your own departure and we will be happy to provide you with a quote based on your group’s size and trip options.
Trip Cancellation Insurance is available through the Simpson Group.
Please note you will be required to sign the Yamnuska Release of Liability, and Waiver of Claims prior to commencing the program. Please review the sample waiver prior to booking and call us with any questions.
Is it for you?
Understanding the prerequisites should help with your training throughout the summer. In terms of technical skills in relation to Yamnuska courses, we recommend a minimum of Intro to Mountaineering and one of our intermediate guided peak ascent programs (Yoho Peaks or Moraine Lake Classics) before joining us for this expedition. You should also have a good level of fitness and be prepared for 3 continuous days of travel in the mountains with a heavy pack. Please review the itinerary section and be both physically and mentally prepared for the trip.