Double Summit Adventure – Woolley & Diadem, Columbia Icefields
Why climb just one 11,000-foot peak when you can summit two in a single day? The Woolley and Diadem peaks, located just north of the Columbia Icefields, offer a thrilling alpine climbing experience with unparalleled views of Mt. Alberta’s East Face and the towering north wall of Twin’s Tower.
Diadem Peak holds a special place in Canadian mountaineering history as the first 11,000er climbed north of the Columbia Icefields and one of the few ascended before 1900. Named by Norman Collie in 1898 for its 30-meter “diadem” of snow crowning the nearly flat summit, Diadem is as historically significant as it is visually stunning. Nearly three decades later, Woolley Peak was first ascended, adding another challenging and rewarding summit to this alpine adventure.
This guided program is perfect for climbers looking to push their alpine skills, navigate glaciated terrain, and gain hands-on experience on classic Rockies 11,000ers. With stunning panoramas, rich mountaineering history, and challenging terrain, a Woolley & Diadem climb promises a memorable adventure in the heart of the Canadian Rockies.
Program Agenda
Day 1: We will meet all guests at our classroom in Canmore at 6:00 am on the first day. After issuing food and gear we will pack up and drive north along the Icefields Parkway towards the Columbia Icefields. A 4-5 hour hike with a river crossing brings us below the glacier descending from Woolley. This will be our base camp for the trip.
Day 2: Summit Day! Today involves moderate scrambling with glacier travel and up to 40-degree couloirs to climb. We will first summit Diadem and then ascend Mt. Woolley. The final summits will be gained via snow slopes requiring crampons and an ice axe. We will return to the campsite for the evening. Approximately 8-10 hours return.
Day 3: Hike out from our base camp to the trailhead and return to Canmore where we can celebrate our adventures.
Meeting Time and Place
The program begins at the Yamnuska classroom at #100, 50 Lincoln Park, Canmore, at 6:00 am on the first day. Map. We are located one hour west of Calgary and 5 minutes east of Banff National Park.
Guides and Group Size
The maximum guide to guest ratio is 1:2. Our guides are enthusiastic and extremely talented. They hold certification from the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides and are licensed to operate in the area. The maximum group size is 8, minimum 2.
Transportation
Transportation is not included in this program. We will rely on guests’ vehicles to reach the trailhead.
Canmore is situated 100km (65miles) west of Calgary on the Trans-Canada Highway. It is well served by scheduled bus lines both from Calgary (airport and downtown), Banff (20km west), and points further west. Calgary International Airport is well connected to major cities throughout North America and Europe. Vehicle rental is available both in Calgary and in Canmore. The trailhead for this program is a 2.5 – 3-hour drive from Canmore.
Frequent shuttles connect Calgary International Airport and Canmore.
Park Passes
Please note that program venues may be within National Parks and/or Kananaskis Country. For programs where transportation is not provided by Yamnuska/Canadian Rockies Hiking by Yamnuska, guests will be required to purchase their own pass.
National Park passes are available both online at https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/voyage-travel/admission and in-person at National park gates and some information centres.
Kananaskis Country conservation passes are available online at https://www.alberta.ca/kananaskis-conservation-pass.aspx
Accommodation and Meals
On the trail you will be staying in modern, lightweight 3- and 2-person weather-proof tents.
All meals, snacks, and drinks are supplied from lunch on Day 1 to lunch on Day 3. For guests with dietary restrictions, we are able to modify the program food pack to meet your individual needs. As food pricing and preparation for these diets is more costly, there is a surcharge. Our kitchen staff will assess your restrictions to inform you if the diet can be accommodated and what surcharge would apply. Vegetarian meals will not be surcharged.
Accommodation in Canmore is not included. A variety of accommodation options exist in both Canmore and Banff, including campsites, hostels, all levels of hotels as well as condo-style accommodation with kitchens or suites. We recommend that you book your own pre and post-trip accommodations well in advance as all levels of accommodations in the Bow Valley fill quickly.
Excess luggage can be left at your hotel or our office.
Equipment and Clothing
The equipment and clothing you bring to this course will play a large role in the quality of your experience. Read the following suggestions and lists carefully. If you have any questions or need clarification, don’t hesitate to call or email.
Equipment
Yamnuska provides group camping and climbing gear and the following personal technical gear. Please feel free to bring your own items if desired:
- Crampons
- Mountaineering ice axe
- Climbing harness
- Climbing helmet
- Prusik cord, slings, carabiners
We recommend you bring:
- Mountaineering boots (must be crampon compatible)
- Suitable footwear for the river crossing (old pair of runners recommended). These will be cached after the initial river crossing for the return journey
- Pair of shorts for the river crossing. These can also be cached after the initial river crossing for the return journey
- Multiday pack* (55–65 litres)
- Daypack* (30-40 litres), (optional)
- Sleeping bag*
- Sleeping pad*
- Water bottle (1-2 litres)
- Sunglasses
- Sunscreen, SPF lip balm
- Camera
- Compass
- Headlamp (with fresh batteries)
- Earplugs
- Blister kit
- First aid items (Our guides carry a first aid kit, but you may bring your own Band-Aids and anti-inflammatory medication if desired.)
- Personal toiletries including hand sanitizer
- Trekking pole (recommended)
- Music player and lightweight reading material (optional)
*These items are available for rent. Please advise us in advance.
Clothing
When mountaineering, it is important to be able to adjust to the changing conditions. We recommend bringing clothing that can be layered to achieve comfort as you change from periods of activity to periods of rest. Cotton clothing is not appropriate as it causes rapid heat loss when wet.
We recommend you bring:
- Long underwear top and bottoms (lightweight synthetic or wool)
- Socks (synthetic/wool, at least two pairs)
- Light synthetic shirt
- Softshell pants and jacket
- Midweight synthetic or down jacket
- Heavyweight insulated jacket
- Waterproof hardshell jacket with hood
- Waterproof hardshell pants (should have a full-length side zip so they can be put on without taking off boots and crampons)
- Gaiters (big enough to fit over large boots)
- Waterproof mountaineering or ice climbing gloves (at least two pairs)
- Warm hat that fits under a helmet
- Sun hat
- Running shoes or sandals
Guests registered in Yamnuska programs (4 days or less) can borrow outerwear from the Arc’teryx store in Banff at no cost. Available items include jackets, insulated layers, and bib pants (men’s & women’s sizes). Simply show proof of enrollment at the store.
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Alpha SV Jacket (Men’s & Women’s)
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Rush Jacket (Men’s & Women’s)
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Rush Bib Pant (Men’s & Women’s)
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Atom Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
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Atom SL Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
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Cerium Down Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
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Nuclei Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
Additional gear info:
Backpack: It is possible to use just one multiday backpack (55-65 litres), as long as it is comfortable to wear while climbing. If bringing an additional day pack, this should be very light and compressible in order to fit inside the bigger pack on the approach hike.
Sleeping bag: We recommend a three-season bag rated at approximately -7°C. A down bag will be lighter and more compressible for the weight than a synthetic bag. A compression stuff sack is recommended to reduce volume.
Mountaineering boots: A good pair of boots is essential. They need to be warm and crampon compatible. Yamnuska uses Scarpa Mont Blanc boots.
Crampons: Mountaineering crampons should have anti-snow-balling plates, and need to be compatible with your boots. We use the Petzl Vasak.
Mountaineering ice-axe: Your ice axe should be 55-75 cm, and should be equipped with an adze. Yamnuska provides the Petzl Summit Axe.
Climbing harness: Should be sized to fit over your cold-weather clothing. It is recommended to have a harness with a belay/rappel loop.
Climbing helmet: A comfortable, all-around climbing helmet that can fit over your winter hat.
Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. Full payment is required at the time of booking. We accept Visa, Mastercard, Canadian Cheques, Money Orders, and Bank Drafts. Credit card payments are easiest, especially for international travellers.
We ask that you review our detailed booking instructions and conditions.
Risk is an inherent part of all mountain activities. We strive to manage and reduce it however, it is impossible to totally eliminate. Learn more about our safety and risk management approach here. Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the program. Please view our sample waiver copy.
The Simpson Group offers a wide range of travel insurance options including Trip Cancellation/Interruption, Travel Medical, and Personal Effect Loss for both Canadian and International Travelers. Other providers offer similar services and we encourage you to select an appropriate level of coverage. We highly recommend purchasing this insurance to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. The two basic types of insurance that most travellers need to consider are Medical and Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance.
Insurance Risk
One of the ways to mitigate risk is by purchasing appropriate insurance. Simpson Group Insurance Services who are travel & health risk specialists, work with technical and high-risk insurance solutions both in medical and non-medical spheres. We highly recommend that you review your insurance needs to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. It is wise to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident during your trip. Simpson Group have a team standing by to answer any of your questions.
Emergency Medical Evacuation
While there is typically no charge for search & rescue in the National and Provincial Parks for active pass holders, costs such as air & ground ambulance after the rescue are not covered by your park pass. The chance of a large bill associated with this risk is a real possibility.
For Canadians
A common myth is that healthcare across provinces is fully covered. There are many things which do not carry interprovincial agreements. Ambulance services, medical evacuation, and some services which one province charges more than another you’d be responsible to pay the difference.
For Internationals
A common myth is that healthcare in Canada is free. Although it is less expensive than US healthcare, charges for non-residents can still be very high. Proper medical health insurance is essential if you were to get injured. Most coverages exclude rock climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing, backcountry skiing and the like. Simpson Group can make sure all those risks are well covered.
Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance
We recognize that our guests’ schedules may change for many reasons, business, family, flight delays, injuries, and other unplanned events. For these eventualities, Trip Cancellation/Interruption insurance is a great way to protect your investment. We can assure you that circumstances do arise that prevent guests from participating in trips or courses and trip cancellation & interruption insurance is a relatively easy way to manage your level of risk of unforeseen events.
For all your travel insurance requirements we recommend Simpson Group Insurance Services. For more information and to purchase a plan, visit Simpson Group’s website.
Dates:
Private guiding options are also available. Please contact us to discuss this option.
PRICE:
$1539 CDN
Includes guides, out-trip meals, use of specialized climbing gear, and group camping gear.
Not included: Canmore accommodation, transportation, gratuities & taxes.
Departures can be set up on a private basis for individuals, families, or groups. We can organize a private departure and leave the trip open for more people to join. Please contact us if you would like to arrange your own departure and we will be happy to provide you with a quote based on your group’s size and trip options.
Trip Cancellation Insurance is available through the Simpson Group.
Please note you will be required to sign the Yamnuska Release of Liability, and Waiver of Claims prior to commencing the program. Please review the sample waiver prior to booking and call us with any questions.
More climbing: Yamnuska guides and instructors are also available for private climbing in the Rockies and elsewhere before and after the program.
Is it for you?
This is an easy to moderate climbing objective. While some previous experience with exposed scrambling or rock climbing and movement on crampons is required, this is a great first trip for those trying to gain basic mountaineering summits and who have a moderate to a high level of fitness.