Snow and Ice Long Weekend

Course Agenda

We hope to give you an idea here about the type of skills you will be learning in this course. This agenda may be changed to accommodate weather conditions, climbing conditions, and the ability/fitness of participants. Please note that conditions change in the area during the summer. Typically on the earlier season weekends, it can be difficult to find ice as the glaciers are still covered by snow. By the end of the summer, however, it can be hard to find snow as it has largely melted. Thus we cannot guarantee that you will spend equal time on snow and ice but we will work hard to give you as much exposure as possible.

Day 1:

• Meet at 9:00 am for a course briefing (Icefields Campground Cook Shelter – see Logistics Tab).
• Issue mountaineering equipment and crampons. If you bring your own equipment we will help you size it properly.
• Head to a nearby training area

(Bring your mountaineering boots to the fitting session as well as any climbing gear you have so we can check it out)

• Mountaineering knots and harness use.
• Snow school (at field site nearby) includes movement on snow, use of ice axe, self-arrest on snow, belaying on snow.

Note: Much of this day is spent training, sitting, and sliding on snow. You will need waterproof gear (with dry clothing for later).

Day 2:

• Meet at 8:00 am to discuss the day’s objectives
• Ice school and crevasse rescue.  Includes: glacier morphology, crampon technique, low angle ice climbing, ice screw placement, roping up for glaciers, crevasse rescue techniques, ice anchors, ice axe use

Day 3: Peak Ascent Day

• Typically a 3:00 am (or earlier) meet to begin the ascent day of a suitable peak.

This is an exciting and challenging opportunity to put new-found skills into practice on a big mountain. Peak options include Mt. Athabasca, A2, Boundary Peak, and Mt. Wilcox. All are good introductory mountaineering challenges.

The peak you attempt will depend upon the mountain conditions, the weather, and your level of fitness.

We only attempt Mt. Athabasca with those physically fit enough and when conditions/weather permitting. Should conditions mean that no peak is suitable, Day 3 will be an additional day of instruction.

Expect a long but rewarding day for your summit attempt. We usually start very early (well before dawn) meaning you will be exposed to the incredible beauty of a mountain sunrise. These climbs are not too technical but require many of the things mountaineers must have: stamina, fitness, route-finding skills, and good judgment.

Instructors and Group Size

Our guides are great people to spend time in the mountains with. Your instructors are certified by the internationally-recognized Association of Canadian Mountain Guides and licensed by Parks Canada. There will be a maximum of 6 participants per instructor on training days and a lower ratio on the climbing day.

Location

The course is held on the stunning Columbia Icefields. This location is ideal since glaciers, snowfields, and peaks are right next to the Icefields Parkway – the famous road linking Banff and Jasper.

Meeting Time and Place

Your guide will meet you at the “ICEFIELDS CAMPGROUND” by the cooking shelters at 9:00 am on Saturday morning. Please be dressed for the outdoors and have your gear handy so the instructors can check it with you.  This campground is located  1 km south of the Icefields Centre on Hwy. 93. It is the campground closest to the Icefields Centre, not the Wilcox Campground.

Transportation – Getting to the Icefields

The Icefields are located approximately 180 km north of Banff on highway 93. It is imperative you purchase a National Park Entry Permit.

Park Passes

Please note that program venues may be within National Parks and/or Kananaskis Country. For programs where transportation is not provided by Yamnuska/Canadian Rockies Hiking by Yamnuska, guests will be required to purchase their own pass.

National Park passes are available both online at https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/voyage-travel/admission and in-person at National park gates and some information centres.

Kananaskis Country conservation passes are available online at https://www.alberta.ca/kananaskis-conservation-pass.aspx

Accommodation & Meals

Accommodation and meals for the weekend are not included in this program. The instructors and most climbers stay at the “Icefields Campground” which we highly recommend facilitating communication amongst the group. Your choices for accommodations include:

1. Camping (preferred): There are two campgrounds in the area. Most climbers use the “Columbia Icefields Campground” (recommended), which is a first-come, first-serve system. In peak summer, it can be hard to find a place if you arrive late in the day.  The other campground nearby is “Wilcox Creek” for RVs, which can also be used for overflow camping. Please note that the Columbia Icefields Campground is not open until mid-June. Other options include Thompson Creek Campground and Honeymoon Lake Campground.
2. Glacier View Lodge: Those interested in more upscale living conditions can try this hotel, located at the Columbia Icefields Info Centre, though it can be more difficult to communicate with the group as there is no cell service in the area. To book call 1 877 442-2623. If staying at the Hotel you will need to bring your own breakfast supplies for the ascent day on Monday as the Hotel restaurant does not open before our departure time.
3. Hostels: There are a couple of rustic hostels operated by Hostelling International within a 45-minute drive of the Icefields. Beauty Creek Hostel is quite a bit closer than Rampart Creek Hostel. You can make reservations by calling 1 866 762 4122.  Again, communication is more difficult is staying outside of the campground, away from the guides, as there is no cell service in the area.

You will need to plan your own menu and bring up enough food for three days. Breakfasts should be simple and easy to prepare as you will be leaving fairly early each morning to meet with the group (especially on the summit day). You will also need to bring lunch and snack food with you each day. Bring plenty of high-energy snacks. Particularly on cold days, we may not stop for long lunch breaks opting for more frequent short snack breaks instead. You will also need to bring plenty of liquids, especially on the peak day, when 2-3 litres will be appropriate.

North of Lake Louise there are no grocery stores for purchasing supplies until you get to Jasper. Please ensure that you bring enough supplies for the weekend and have sufficient fuel and camping equipment to prepare all of your meals before you leave for the Icefields Campground. There are a restaurant and cafeteria at the Icefields Center (1 km North of the campground). Simple meals and extra food can be purchased here if you prefer to eat out, however, we often depart for our program days quite early, and sometimes eating breakfast out is not possible.

Equipment & Clothing

The equipment and clothing you bring to this course will play a large role in the quality of your experience. Read the following suggestions and lists carefully. If you have any questions or need clarification, don’t hesitate to call or email.

Please note that the use of hydration packs/bladders is not suitable as they may not work in mountain conditions.

Equipment

Yamnuska provides the following personal technical gear. Please feel free to bring your own items if desired:

• Crampons
• Mountaineering ice axe
• Climbing harness
• Climbing helmet
• Ice screw
• Prusik cord, slings, carabiners

We recommend you bring:

• Mountaineering Boots* (must be crampon compatible) (rentals available from Yamnuska) – please call us with ANY questions regarding appropriate Mountaineering Boots
• Daypack* (30-40 litres)
• Lunch, snacks
• Water bottle
• Sunglasses
• Sunscreen, SPF lip balm
• Camera
• Headlamp (with fresh batteries)
• Blister kit
• First aid items (Our guides carry a first aid kit, but you may bring your own Band-Aids and anti-inflammatory medication if desired.)
• Personal toiletries including hand sanitizer
• Trekking pole (recommended)

*These items are available for rent from Yamnuska. Please advise us in advance.

Clothing

When mountaineering, it is important to be able to adjust to the changing conditions. We recommend bringing clothing that can be layered to achieve comfort as you change from periods of activity to periods of rest. Cotton clothing is not appropriate as it causes rapid heat loss when wet.

We recommend you bring:

• Long underwear top and bottoms (lightweight synthetic or wool)
• Socks (synthetic/wool, at least two pairs)
• Light synthetic shirt
• Softshell pants and jacket
• Midweight synthetic or down jacket
• Heavyweight insulated jacket
• Waterproof hardshell jacket with hood
• Waterproof hardshell pants (should have a full-length side zip so they can be put on without taking off boots and crampons)
• Gaiters (big enough to fit over large boots)
• Waterproof mountaineering or ice climbing gloves (at least two pairs)
• Warm hat that fits under a helmet
• Sun hat

• Alpha SV Jacket (Men’s & Women’s)
• Rush Jacket (Men’s & Women’s)
• Rush Bib Pant (Men’s & Women’s)
• Atom Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
• Atom SL Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
• Cerium Down Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)
• Nuclei Hoody (Men’s & Women’s)

Additional gear info:

Daypack:  For single-day climbing trips your pack should be 30–40 litres.

Boots: A good pair of mountaineering boots is essential. They need to be warm and crampon compatible. You are welcome to try the Scarpa Mont Blanc boots that Yamnuska rents.

Crampons:  Mountaineering crampons should have anti-snow-balling plates, and need to be compatible with your boots. We use the Petzl Vasak.

Mountaineering ice-axe: Your ice axe should be 55-75 cm, and should be equipped with an adze. Yamnuska provides the Petzl Summit Axe.

Climbing harness:  Should be sized to fit over your cold-weather clothing. It is recommended to have a harness with a belay/rappel loop.

Helmet:  A comfortable, all-around climbing helmet that can fit over your winter hat.

Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. A  35% deposit (including GST) is required at the time of booking. The final payment is due eight weeks before the start of the program.  We accept Visa, Mastercard, Canadian Cheques, Money Orders, and Bank Drafts.  Credit card payments are easiest, especially for international travellers.

We ask that you familiarize yourself with our detailed booking instructions and conditions.

Risk is an inherent part of all mountain activities. We strive to manage and reduce it however, it is impossible to totally eliminate. Learn more about our safety and risk management approach here.  Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the program. Please view a copy of our waiver

The Simpson Group offers a wide range of travel insurance options including Trip Cancellation/Interruption, Travel Medical, and Personal Effect Loss for both Canadian and International Travelers. Other providers offer similar services and we encourage you to select an appropriate level of coverage. We highly recommend purchasing this insurance to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. The two basic types of insurance that most travellers need to consider are Medical and Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance.

Insurance Risk 
One of the ways to mitigate risk is by purchasing appropriate insurance. Simpson Group Insurance Services who are travel & health risk specialists, work with technical and high-risk insurance solutions both in medical and non-medical spheres.  We highly recommend that you review your insurance needs to cover and protect you against unforeseen events. It is wise to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident during your trip. Simpson Group have a team standing by to answer any of your questions.

Emergency Medical Evacuation
While there is typically no charge for search & rescue in the National and Provincial Parks for active pass holders, costs such as air & ground ambulance after the rescue are not covered by your park pass. The chance of a large bill associated with this risk is a real possibility.

For Canadians
A common myth is that healthcare across provinces is fully covered. There are many things which do not carry interprovincial agreements. Ambulance services, medical evacuation, and some services which one province charges more than another you’d be responsible to pay the difference.

For Internationals
A common myth is that healthcare in Canada is free. Although it is less expensive than US healthcare, charges for non-residents can still be very high. Proper medical health insurance is essential if you were to get injured. Most coverages exclude rock climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing, backcountry skiing and the like. Simpson Group can make sure all those risks are well covered.

Trip Cancellation/Interruption Insurance
We recognize that our guests’ schedules may change for many reasons, business, family, flight delays, injuries, and other unplanned events.  For these eventualities, Trip Cancellation/Interruption insurance is a great way to protect your investment. We can assure you that circumstances do arise that prevent guests from participating in trips or courses and trip cancellation & interruption insurance is a relatively easy way to manage your level of risk of unforeseen events.

For all your travel insurance requirements we recommend Simpson Group Insurance Services.  For more information and to purchase a plan, visit Simpson Group’s website.